Gabe79
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Everything posted by Gabe79
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Easy solution. Sell the E46, buy another E39.
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Tyres included as pictured in the bottom four/five photos. The front is pretty worn, but passed a WOF (barely) less than 200KM ago. For fitment, you'd need to account for the centre bore being different (you need adapters...) but the offset should work as checked here: http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator
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Thinking $1200ish? If you're keen, PM me with an offer?
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Bump. Updated OP with some photos of the rims off the car, as they're in my garage now. Eating my words a bit. Price dropped. Accepting reasonable offers.
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Bump
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Don't see these pop up too often - 2001 E38 750iL with low kms
Gabe79 replied to TermiPeteNZ's topic in TradeMe discussions
If you do go, could you photo the VIN from it? The one reported by carjam seems to not work on any of the decoders I tried... -
I saw this thread while traveling and didn’t have a chance to post. See this thread. No credit card info necessary. ? https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?959458-Radio-Code
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http://www.pixelfix.net/eng/bmw.html scroll to the bottom first question in the q&a session.
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Beautiful car! Good luck with your sale.
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I dunno mate, I’m not speaking as a tech, or as a business. I am speaking as someone who’s done the repair to his own car. The parts cost 32 euro delivered. I did not spend more than an hour doing it. It was my first time. For $200, I could buy a lot of kits to try again if I failed the first time. I understand this might not be for everyone, but as I wrote above, that $100 figure is one I’d be comfortable paying so as to be lazy.
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Good advice this. When I changed mine this year, it was still the original from 2001! 230k km later...
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This is one site to get them. Note the usual disclaimers about not being legal here, etc... https://www.customeuropeanplates.com
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Replaced the BBS rims with BMW ones, and with brand new tyres to go with, and an alignment after having changed control arms...
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So, irony here... the only insert that slipped was from one of the tension arms, that came off without a hitch. It was the two side ones, that connection from the bottom to the top, that were just rude. On both sides, they weren't at all respectful of the amount of money I spent on tools to get them out gently at all. We managed to not miss the end of the balljoint, and the big f'ing hammer left no marks anywhere. EDIT: We used very high jackstands. Access was only an issue at the end, when we lowered the car onto ramps so we could torque up the bolts to the subframe. That was awkward as anything and having a lift would have been really handy just then...
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Replaced front control arms and sway bar endlinks. I will edit edit up a picture to sum up my day but here’s a textual representation of how it all went... Pickle fork - fail scissor type separator - fail big f’ing hammer - success
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One sold. One to go: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1460055528
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Can we say “scam” much? ?
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Have not gone through myself. I just saw it as a specific example on the LVVT FAQ page. If your local person doesn't know, call around. There is a whole list of them on the page. I've seen the link, but don't have it now. If you can't find it, I'll look for you later.
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Where'd you get stickers? I'd like to cover the BBS logo with a BMW logo when I get them.
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I bet she wasn't impressed. I've looked at that link before, didn't inspire confidence. I've ordered four mitsubishi MN184312 to test. Found them for $27USD including shipping to here from Japan. Will let you know how it goes whenever they get here. EDIT: Ordered mine from here: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/mn184312
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It dawned on me today that you're probably looking for the same reason I am. From reading various links, the 70/64 C type is the right deal, but there are some other options that amount to the same thing. Post #17 here has some alternative ideas. I'm going to grab a single one of the Mitsubishi caps to try, if that works, I'll grab 3 more. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3215651-yet-another-center-cap-question Offer stands on free shipping from the US at least.
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I agree entirely. Even if I'd go with lubricant as my first step.
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He can't get into his boot to trace it... He also doesn't have fold down seats... @arma have you tried some lock and hinge lubricant? CRC, Graphite, or white lithium spray? If your last resort is drilling a hole in your boot lid... I'd be trying other less desperate options first.
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They're an interesting company. They often write "Authentic" on parts, when they mean that the part is authentically a part, not that it is authentic BMW. What brand were the arms you got?
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To be fair, it's a bit more than $10. Close to $100USD total. I'm trying to figure out what bits and bobs the actual control arms come with. Or if they come naked.
