Vass

Ohh nevermind, just looked up the procedure on the Beisan website, looks like it is different - the whole cup comes out of the camshaft with the unit. The timing tool looks to be the same between M52, M52TU & M54 though so hopefully makes the search a bit easier.

If it's anything like the M54, you don't actually need any timing tools to do the VANOS - just remove the VANOS unit and don't turn the engine over with it unbolted, don't try rotate the camshaft or push the cups in and out. Easy off-on job.

I imagine that intake would have been cleaned before, that looks veeeery clean. Does it still have EGR? With uploading photos, I've found that for some reason the website runs into trouble with images above 2MB so I've started bumping down the resolution to get it under that.

I've driven a couple of my mates' E46's that run that exact SMF kit. It's pretty good overall, no real noticeable chatter and really quite enjoyed it. The only real thing that would prevent me from having it in my own car is the pressure plate, I believe it's running the E36 M3 one which makes the clutch pedal reaaaaaally hard. The fellas whose cars those were say they've gotten used to it and don't mind it but I imagine it would get real tedious daily driving like that. Definitely not ideal for a daily driver. Maybe worth asking if he's got other options for pressure plates to go with the kit.

Welding must be his area of expertise, I imagine 98% of certifiers wouldn't know enough about it to even think to ask such questions. Probably overcomplicating things a bit though, in all the research I've done when reinforcing my chassis I can't remember seeing any mention of steel grades or any special procedures. Most reinforcement plates out there don't even mention steel grades and ones that do are mild steel. I imagine they they would be made to match the rest of the chassis they're being welded to. Might not be much help but here's a full manual for the CMP reinforcement plates that go over the prep and welding procedure. It doesn't have recommended weld settings but I asked for advice on that front directly from them at the time and got the following response. Someone with more welding knowledge might be able to deduce the steel grade from the voltages mentioned? I've no idea how that works. These guys have developed the kit, have installed it on numerous cars so do know what they're doing. Doesn't answer the certifier's question directly but if you have no luck in your search for information, maybe he'd be satisfied enough for you to follow the tried and tested procedure laid out in the manual?

My certifier told me it's not even something that needs to be certified per se but could get picked up in the process if certifying for something else. Unless you're moving the suspension mounting points (you're not) and the welds are done to a "tradesman-like standard" you should sail straight through. Visual inspection and no further questions. Sounds like your guy is being difficult just for the hell of it, quite a weird question to ask and request proof for. Of course it's mild steel, what else would it be? Carbon fibre honeycomb?

Probably not the right place for it but was posted the other day as well

Had a similar experience recently doing the water pump on the new-to-us X5 3.0d, which by the looks of it runs an identical pump. 290k km's on it and honestly felt brand new, not even slight play in the shaft or anything. No wonder these engines are so revered to this day.

Sounds like an awesome project, great chassis-engine combo, best of luck with it and real keen to follow your progress. I've got a mate that's gone down the same route with his sedan, absolute banger of a car, pretty crazy seeing it today compared to what he started off with. Would be happy to put you in touch for some tips and advice if needed, he's a great down to earth fella. Haven't looked into it but have wondered for a while why people prefer to go M52 for these swaps as opposed to M54? Is it the cable throttle vs fly-by-wire of it all?

Great to have another touring afficionado on board. Love it! Did see this car for sale a wee while back, did look like a mighty fine package. Congrats on picking it up, the turbo diesels in those are absolute beasts. Love the wheels & body kit too.

Took her in for a WoF inspection the other week, sailed through without a hiccup. Always enjoy getting compliments from the mechanics, even got thanked for bringing it in. Clearly preferred dealing with what he dubbed a "full restoration" than the clapped out Altezza that came before me. Hit 240,000 km's on the way home. 12,512 km's since the engine rebuild and 10,308 km's post driveline overhaul. Here's to many more.

Same! That's a seriously well taken care of machine and an awesome deal considering how much has gone into it, props to you @NZ_InFerno. No way you'd be able to buy one of these and get it to the same level for anything less than the asking price but yeah, unfortunately the market is a bit stale at the moment. All you need is one buyer that sees the value in what's been done though so you might luck out, just probably won't be a quick sale.

I love how he lists the dodgy wrap job as this mod that supposedly adds value to the car, when in reality it turns it into an abomination that 99% of people wouldn't want to be caught dead in. Top marks for reattaching the badges on the piss as well. Bargain.

Didn't want to say it but I did think you were a bit optimistic with your budget of $7-8k was it? Although to be fair there's not much in terms of fundamentals behind today's asking prices, mostly just hype so you might actually be the realistic one. Just that everyone else's price expectations are floating in space.

Took it in for its first WoF inspection Friday last week. Ended up 'failing' on two rather laughable points. First was the rear middle seat "missing a belt buckle", which of course had just slipped under the seat. The second was the "front RH fog light alignment too high". I was told they could do it but the front bumper would need to come off... In reality the fog light covers/surrounds just pop out revealing the two phillips head screws holding the light in place, once out there's an adjustment dial on the backside. Eyeballed it to match the left side and took it in for reinspection on Monday. I didn't get it quite right so ended up tinkering with it in their shop in front of the test machine thingy until I got the alignment right on both sides. The mechanic did also verbally mention a few advisories that he didn't even write down, one being the rear tyres being slightly worn on the inner edges. The tyres are still fairly new and the wear was nowhere near close to being fail-worthy but definitely something I will address in the near future. I had noticed a bit of negative camber on the rear, which is likely the upper control arms which seem to be a typical issue on these. The other thing he mentioned is that the steering felt a bit heavy, which I'm not even sure is an issue but he was fairly adamant that it wasn't quite right. Not sure what to think of that since it's not something neither me nor the wife have picked up on so far. Have tried keeping closer attention to it since he mentioned it but all feels fine to me. Apart from that, no other issues and drove away with a fresh WoF sticker. Just in time to rush us to hospital Tuesday night for out daughter to be born in the early hours on Wednesday. The car seat now semi-permanently strapped in, we took her home for the first time on Friday. Must have been the gentlest driving I've ever done. "Baby on Board" stickers have usually been one of my biggest pet peeves but I now caught myself seriously considering getting one to excuse my ultra grand-grandma driving to fellow travellers. I also became super conscious of how sh*t the roads are down here. I've driven the same route hundreds of times but never noticed how rough some of the surfaces were am now paranoid of even the slightest ridge and pot hole. Full blown dad-mode. The Family Tractor coming into its element.

Yeah same, haven't had it happen again since that trip. Weird that you had completely different codes flash up though with seemingly the same symptoms.

Stumbled upon an awesome writeup about this lady called Valeria Giordano, dubbed the 'Queen of the Clownshoe'. Not your regular neighbourhood grandma. Has amassed a collection of 8 (so far) in all sorts of different colors, tinkers on them herself, uses them to help folks learn to drive manual and even offers them to the local high school auto shop for students to practice on. Such an awesome story, gotta love it. Something to aspire towards, eh @Kees? :D

Were the plastic bumpers corroded too? Why would you not swap those over while you're at it, especially since they were the same color?

Those SSC fellas are prolific at overpricing their stock. Pretty sure the other near identical one that ended up being exported to the US last year went for around $30k, if that.

All the hooning around was a good excuse to bust out the camera and take some glamour shots though.

I keep saying I've given up on trying to track down the cause of the rich running, but then something snaps in my head and I jump to the next implausible thing to try out. This time around it was the injectors. After helping a mate do an engine swap, I grabbed the injectors off his old engine to eliminate that possible culprit. Dropped them off at a shop to get professionally ultrasonic cleaned & flow tested - checked out fine to within spec. Swapped them in, cleared adaptations and went for a drive - sure enough the LTFT's were back at -7.0/7.8% after about 20 minutes. Figured I wouldn't bother swapping the old ones back since the result was the same but then when firing up after sitting for 10 minutes or more the engine would run really rough for a few seconds, struggling to hold idle with the red oil pressure light staying on. Decided to hook up the fuel pressure gauge to check for issues. 52 psi at idle 48 psi after shutting the engine off 38 psi after 10 minutes 32 psi after 20 minutes 22 psi after 40 minutes The pressure shouldn't drop below 43.5 psi after 20 minutes to be within spec so this is well off. Not sure how it passed the tests at the shop or whether I managed to damage them somehow when installing but back out they came to revert back to the original ones. Picked up some tricks whilst fiddling with them the first time so the removal-installation process was way quicker the second time around. Ran the same test to make sure all was in order. 52 psi at idle 48 psi after shutting the engine off 45 psi after 10 minutes 44 psi after 20 minutes 44 psi after 30 minutes 44 psi after 40 minutes 44 psi after 60 minutes Mint. Also swapped out my DISA valve for the spare one I also grabbed from the other engine. Mine had been rebuilt with a metal flap and (supposedly) a new diaphragm but figured I'd check swap it out as well and check if it makes any difference. Went for a longer drive, initially things looked promising with LTFT's staying close to 0 but after a while suddenly jumped into the negative again. Stopped by to do some shopping and upon returning they'd somehow gotten reset back to 0%. Took the car out for another run around some back roads and the LTFT's remained promising throughout - 0% on bank 1 and -0.8% on bank 2 by the end of the day. Was beginning to think it had been the DISA valve all along but took it out again for an even longer run yesterday to confirm. The numbers remained low at first but then very gradually began to creep up, settling down in the familiar -7.0/8.6% territory after an hour-something and 70-odd km's. For the 37th time, I give up. I've now tried a bunch of stuff with the same end results: Swapped out MAF sensors - from brand new VDO & to several originals 2 different throttle bodies 3 different ICV's Air filters - stock panel filter, K&N high flow filter DINAN CAI with additional air inlet 2 sets of injectors Different fuel grades - 95, BP98, NPD100 Swapped out DME's with different firmware & software versions, reflashed tunes Stock exhaust manifolds; catless headers Fuel pump & filter are just over a year old. Fuel pressure is sitting at the higher end of the spec at 52 psi at idle. Might try swapping in another fuel filter & pressure regulator at some point, because what the hell... @Eagle also suggested crank & cam sensors might have something to do with timing and fuel injection so could be another thing to try and swap out for some spares I've got laying around at some point. Brand new OE/Genuine sensors the lot though so probably another stab in the dark. Chasing shadows is fun.

My rough understanding is you have to maintain a minimum 100mm clearance to the lowest point of the underside. Cert is automatically required if you're putting in adjustable suspension so stick to traditional springs. Cutting springs is also a no-no.

He is a "multi-media personality/trend setter" don't you know... What an absolute tosspot

I get short shifters but what the hell...