Cement

Trying to boost it either way (turbo or super charger) is going to be expensive to do it badly, and very expensive to do it properly. If its your daily driver then time off the road for dicking around with the build and / or issues down the track would also be something to think pretty hard about. Best advice with my sensible old man pants on would be to work on that debt you have and enjoy the car for what it is until you are in a better position to FULLY plan and cost out the build before picking up a spanner.

A fair assumption and quite likely for operators that have small commercial vehicles and can take the upfront hit on their cash flow, but the folks with large trucks are pretty keen on buying in small increments more frequently electronically (eRUC) to avoid having hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of pre-payed RUC sitting on their windscreens. For the big trucks its a massive expense, for a transport business its right there along with diesel and wages.

"Please insert card OR select payment type" ... me inserts card hoping for a logical experience and quick transaction ... nothing happens ... forced to select 'EFTPOS' on stupid f**king machine just like 99.9% of ALL transactions they perform ... just liven up that sh*t straight away and make the people who want to pay with some cash, a gram of meth, some vouchers and a prezzy card push the stupid button !!! ... and then ... "Would you like a receipt ?" -> "No" ... *prepares to walk off* "Please take your receipt" ... *double back swearing at machine, throws paperwork in bin in disgust*

Just not enough room in the bank account there dwarf man 😅

Time to mark this thread as closed or some such. No more value to be had here.

In E46 land thats a hammer and punch / screw driver or similar ? Or if feeling strong some dish washing gloves 💪 I may be talking out my ass but i think most pump rings take the same tools

Thanks @NZ00Z3, I will disconnect the starter solenoid (I have no oil system currently) and re-test with a multi-meter to get some better data. Wonder if it stops when an unacceptable voltage drop is detected 🤔

So I got my engine swap project wired to the point where i can crank the engine now (woop woop). I'm feeding my starter solenoid via the 2 pin plug in the engine bay electronics box, TIS says this should be X6011 but I never had one in the NZ new 318. Anyhooooooo I'm 99% it goes to the EWS module and is a fairly thick black/blue wire. Obviously only goes +12V when key is in the cranking position. I have noticed two interesting things and I'm keen to hear if this is normal / expected: After holding the crank position for maybe 3-5 seconds it automagically stops cranking ...ie: you can't just go forever If I leave the key in the 'on' position for a while then come to crank it, no crank ... turn back to accessory then back through on and it cranks again happily Feels like some EWS smarts here in play but like to confirm ?

Everything is cool, not missing any images ... was just wondering if the images were going to tick over some milestone age and start to be pruned / deleted, hence making the content somewhat less valuable for errrr the next poor soul who may wish to attempt my swap

Just looking at the history of my build thread and wondering if images uploaded expire after a while ? Its really the only collated representation of the journey outside a squillion pics i have locally

More good progress on the electrical side: Getting the cable made for the starter / alternator and power feed to my PDM at MSEL which should be ready tomorrow Cabin power / earth distribution complete along with the Arduino mounting Arduino is plugged into both the BMW and Nissan CAN buses and validated it can diddle with the gauge cluster New fuel pump relay changed to actually work (ECU grounds the coil instead of powering it as I had wired it) 🙄 So electrically speaking it should be possible to start it at this point !! 😲 Did a few other bits for fun: Installed the front bumper temporarily to start thinking about a radiator ... might try and get the Chase Bays tucked item as the E46 items all seem to have freaky end tanks which won't allow easy moving of the inlet / outlets. Completed most of the fuel system plumbing bar the return line So I think I'm looking to take care of the dry sump plumbing now !!! I'd better start a GoFundMe to get that ball rolling a bit faster 😅 Oh also still need to get a clutch line made up so it stops pissing fluid on the floor ... and finish the trans mount / cross member ... oh and the header secondaries and springs / loops ... and probably a bunch of other stuff !!

I should quit spending to get mine running and just buy a trailer so i can tow it to some meets before i can cash out my kiwi saver and get it completed

Thank you for the kind words gents Hopefully once things are complete it will look pretty OEM in terms of fit and finish, that's the goal at least. Not much in the way of photographic progress to report of late bit I am achieving some pretty satisfying pieces, really cool to start seeing the engine and car go from two separate things to being somewhat integrated now !! Wired up transmission so now have functional reverse lights and neutral switch Wired up ignition on so can use the key to power up engine electrics Run all cables inside the cabin that need to go there from the back side of the 'secondary' Deutsch 31 pin connector Planned where the OBD2 connector and Arduino will be mounted Located wires for oil pressure and alternator lights to the dash Next up will be finalisation of the wiring inside the car ... fuel pump relay trigger, brake switch, power supply for Arduino, CAN connections, dashboard bits etc etc

Gold I'll happily let them park in the drive way and setup a comfy chair for them along with a supply of tea and biscuits for an all day stake out !! Then we can half any cash payments as a side hustle woop.

I'm looking to get something once the car is finally on the road and was considering this unit here (Viofo T130) as its low profile, multi camera etc ... not 4k but I'm not sure its needed to get the gist of things, obviously you want to be able to get a plate and have good night vision etc. https://www.techadvisor.com/review/viofo-t130-review-3812733/

I've done the same and its turned out to be a waste of time. We have a handful of habitual excessive speeders that go past our place, I have a couple of security cameras and have worked out average speeds over a 30m stretch ... highest I've seen was 109kph (its a 50 zone, residential street). Tried to get a hold of our community constable and the person I ended up speaking to recommended that I go to a station and file a formal report, which they then have to follow up on and actually go and see the driver etc, providing you have registration of course (which I do). I thought the main offender was going to take a holiday to the big house recently as I saw police at his place with their guns out aiming over his fence etc 😲 Alas I have seen him since.

I feel this is the perfect time to temper the road rage with some soothing commentary from Ogmios and his school of zen motoring

I'm scrolling ... hanging out for those after pics

Wow, that clock !! No wonder Germans have a reputation for being on time

Another really satisfying milestone here getting the engine bay wiring virtually complete !! Just need to wire the back side of the 'secondary' plug which will have all of the wiring that will head into the cabin.

Wish I'd done this on the plug i have already wired up ... maybe I'll de-pin the whole thing at some point and deal to it. Anyhow, here is what i will be doing for the 'secondary' plug for the remainder of the ECU wiring. Cost effective solution for tidy wiring labels !! Sheet of laser print stickers plus clear heat shrink

Maybe there is additional width in the lower control arms etc to give an overall width increase along with some changes in geometry ?

Looking for the other side of the connector pictured ... looks like i sold mine with the engine and loom that came out of the car. Will go to the starter motor solenoid and something else i think. Just need the connector and as much wire still attached as possible.

Level up achieved !!! Finally completed the wiring to a 'functional' state. Now to get it tidied up and map out the additional plug I will need to make the harness removable. Can't wait to get to the point where it can all be wrapped and finalised !! Wasted literal days trouble shooting the last two issues, both simple explanations / solutions in the end: My mobile diagnostic app NCSIII was showing the accelerator pedal (BMW item) sensor voltages as the same when they were measuring correctly on the wire. There are two independent sensors which have differing voltages (one is half of the other). Finally located a note in the service manual stating the diagnostics are expected to show the same / adjusted voltage reading. Fuel pump relay signal would never fire. The service manual (EC section) notes ECU pin 22 is an 'output' which should show battery voltage for a second after key on (pump priming). Turns out the ECU actually sends pin 22 to ground when activated !! I guess its 'outputting' ground in a way and when measured with the full OEM wiring it would indeed show 12v. Tricky

So a fair bit of progress to report lately, mainly due to having caught covid and being in isolation downstairs with the rest of the family upstairs. Lucky for me the garage is conveniently located ... downstairs Also very lucky I've had a mild case and that it looks like we've managed to keep me from infecting other family members. So essentially all of the Nissan power wiring is complete in the engine bay now along with sensor wiring needed to power up the engine (electrically speaking only). Thats things like the gas pedal, fuel tank temp sensor, OBD2 connector, neutral switch etc. While in isolation I've also managed to get my Arduino happy with 2x CAN bus shields attached so I can pull from Nissan land and push to BMW land ultimately. Now that there is power on the engine I've also been able to start capturing CAN messages from the engine ECU in preparation for coding up the translation. Just today I found an awesome resource with all of the PID's and byte representations from a 370Z so that will be a massive help. Also have been progressing the transmission mount by 3D printing some mockups and checking clearances etc. Waiting for a new hotend for my printer to try and get the ASA filament printing properly (more temperature needed i suspect). I've constructed a thermostat controlled 'hot box' for the printer also to try and solve warping issues using ASA. Its a little on the sketchy side so will be a 'print while we are home' only solution. Onto the pics ...