polley

Tried a few different things. Last time I was out there was a dude helping me out said they were way too high and he dropped them all. Turned out to be around 20psi cold, not sure what they were hot at that time. Next dude I talked too reckoned they need to be up around 30psi hot, went out at 25 and came back in at 28. Other people telling me they need to be up around 35. So I really have no idea where I even want to be starting after all this conflicting info.

E30s have a tee piece in the back above the rear subframe you can use. You'll need some more brake line and fittings and a flaring tool as well.

Country's f**ked, give it back to the Maori's.

Friend has a wheel fall off after getting his tires replaced....

R888

Oh right sorry, I know what you mean. Wasnt sure if you had tried Google translate yet. I was trying to figure out the menu system of a Chinese auto arc voltage controller yesterday for a customer and one part translated into "call the police"

Translate.Google.com Will translate the whole page

Put the camera on the back window last weekend at Hamptons but can only see inside the car, must need to change some settings on camera. Good news is I've sorted the overheating issues I had last time and also the brake fade issues. Need to learn and play with suspension settings and tire pressures - I have no idea what I'm doing!

Had sinco do it. He did a top notch job.

Ah yep sweet as. Well if it is indeed a VR sensor the arduino wont read that directly anyway (as its an AC signal). You could still use the board above to convert it to hall effect / 0-5v, feed that into the arduino and then write the code to convert the signal for the extra pulses needed.

I have 2 x these boards: http://www.jbperf.com/dual_VR/v2_1.html Was going to use them to convert my ABS signals to hall type for traction control, instead now I'm using to to install hall effect sensors. Have these boards avaliable if you want one / suits yours needs (which it sounds like it might) Micheal.

Need some more info on the sensor as that could be a VR sensor and will need extra circuitry on the input. So you are after a square wave pwm type signal back to the dash instead of a straight 0 -5 v? Need more information on what type of sensor you are using, what output you want. Easy enough to convert the 4 pulses per revolution to RPM if thats what you want, but what is the ECU expecting at the other end, 0-5v analog? pwm pulse output? ^^ Or like thorburn said, just convert the magnetic sensor output to hall effect type output? If its a VR sensor, I already have some boxes here that convert VR to Hall made up im not going to use anymore.

From what I understand is you want to take a pulse input (this is not a analog input!), convert it to speed, then output that as a 0-5v output ? If it is a pulse input, you want to use a digital interrupt, and count the number of pulses in a given amount of time and you can calculate speed from that. Are you going to be measuring RPM or do you want to calculate KPH? You can then map your min and max speed to 0-255 to output a PWM signal that can be filtered to your 0-5v output. Is the magnetic sensor just a reed switch or is it a VR sensor? There is an example of reading RPM from a fan here, which will give you a better idea.: http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ReadingRPM An example of filtering the PWM output to provide a 0-5v analog output: https://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/Analog-Output I've done the same thing before to build a tacho.

Just going to turn an output on and off as the switch opens / closes. Also, that wont compile. it has errors, and its not smart to have delays in your ISR. Micheal, you can also get dedicated frequency to voltage converter chips if you were not aware of that. http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2907-n.pdf

If the magnetic speed sensor is a pulse, you want to be hooking that to to an interrupt pin so you don't miss any pulses. Depending on the sensor it may also need debouncing (would do that with hardware, capacitor would do it). The arduino it self does not have analog out, but you could use the pwm out and some external hardware to get something that would be pretty close to a 0-5v analog output.

Keen to see on car

Any engineering place. Ask if you can go through their scrap bin. Take beer with you.

**born too late.

Sounds like I was born too early, can't have much fun these days without someone complaining

Annnnnd, whatd it do?

Got pressure plate from waikato clutch and brake, they also upgraded it for extra clamp. They also supplied the clutch disc, full face. Puck clutches are a pain in the ass.

I used one of those originally and it let go at 5psi boost. Now using upgraded Sachs pressure plate and regular disc. No problems at 12~psi.

Standard clutch disk with standard pressure plate setup for extra clamp

Cool setup

Make me an offer and you can take it away. Otherwise the engine is getting turned into a coffee table.