E30-323ti

That's why the towball is still on it, so I can rig up a little seat and drive it like an oldskool tractor. An N57S might be a little more appropriate, and actually fit. Wonder if it could wangle into the BMW open class with one, after all, E30's did come with a Turbo Diesel option...

Have you had it on a dyno? Be keen to see boost Vs RPM & power/torque of course. I've got one fron BoostJunky when he did his GT35R+M50B25, looked interesting overlaid on my stock 1JZ graph. 56mm - 8 blade Compressor. For my manifold (Tri-Y style) I used AutoCAD to model the collectors & 'unwrapped' the solids to make the templates (2x 3 pipes @120° and 15° splays). That app is nice and quick for 'easy' notches, also like the tubular brace templates it does.

HX35 w/12cm non-WG turbine housing. WG is a Tial MV-R44. So hopefully not too-big.

Righteo then, a few pics of the limited progress. Downpipe & Wastegate done. Bit of a squeeze past what is left of the firewall Fitted up to the original 3" zorst just nicely NB. The tilton pedal box will be ~6-8" back from where the accel pedal is now. PS. Great tube notching/coping app. Couple of old ones (6/2005 ), not sure if people had seen the rear towers (for running coilovers). incl rear bracing and diff mount. Welding to the panel steel was a PITA, was a 2 person job one holding a big copper bar (as a heat sink) in the wheel well.

Speaking from experience, 300rwhp in n E30 is always going to have traction issues, and if it's raining, take the bus. The Apex ARC-8's are awesome looking wheels and a good size. The 300mm race kit would still be more than adequate, esp. if matched with the rear kit. Sticking with the E30 4lug is also harder to get wheels with enough caliper clearance up front, have you checked the ARC-8's for BBK's?? 235/40 is a good sized tyre, a decent roll will have them fitting nicely (wheel offset dependent). There are some rare 245/35 R17's on trademe at the moment also.

Car Magazine UK Seems like an odd place for a 'transfer box' Do they mean the front diff maybe? Diesel Guy. How much 'heavy' towing have you done with either of your chip'd E53's?? Loaded Car Trailer or Boat etc...

Presumably you have other mods (done or to do) to need that much brake/wheel/rubber?? The 300mm race kit from massive has proven plenty for many track cars (non-M & M3 E30's). Has the advantage of fitting under a selection of 15's, which have a much bigger selection of tyres suitable for the E30. A 235/40 R17 is quite a bit bigger diameter than stock, so generally needs a diff change or MOORPOWAR

And I'm sure there would be a molten pile of transmission left on the ground to prove it. Speaking of which, pumping another 100Nm through the stock E53 trans will end it tears at some point surely. Prob. when towing +2000kg or racecar/trailer/suppiles in the middle of nowhere. Greg, is there a 'heavy duty' tow package for he likes of the E53, with trans coolers etc... that should be installed for such situations??

*facepalm* 'Cause the E36 is not from the early '80s or the mid '70s Although, there is one of the E36 GTR body kits on Trademe at the moment if you wanted some 'flares'

Like bollocks you have a 3" side wall. well maybe if you're measuring the slope length [or from the rim bead not the lip] My 225/45's on 9's would only have ~3" (from the lip) An the E30 is pretty old, with a repaint or two

Pics or BAN + This Thread is useless without pics = You might as well have asked: Can I fit 35" Mud Dawgs' on my E36 without any mods? Or does it need a body lift? Throw us a freckin' bone man!! No one wants to cut your cheese and beat you to the uber stretched pimp'd E36 M3 NZ title.

I think my E30 has paint thicker than the sidewall of a 225/35 on a 9.5" But yeah, what wheels are we talking about here....

Is all that tri-turbo goodness going to fit in a RHD model? The lower (big) turbo does seem to sit forward, but...... Pretty sure Paul re-mapped his 120d

Maaate, you're dreaming! I see an E46 Fender Flare Job at the least. What tyres to you think you'd run in them?? Stretched ass 235/255 combo EDIT: Look up Vorslag, they have done numerous tyre/wheel fitment testing on the E36. IIRC 18x10 et43 with 265/35's can be squeezed on an E36 with a fender roll/pull and the right combo of alignment specs

Any plans to 'go on tour' Viktro? Would be keen if you ever down wgtn way. Or get it filmed and on youtube for Bimmersport eLearning Modules

I've got one, has diff ratio, tyre & rim size inputs. And I think Pando then modified it with a slider bar for the diff ratio, and added BMW gearbox ratios. Also has a graph page gran turismo styles. Was posted on the old forum many moons ago.

Maybe interior spec / options. The 330i has larger Brakes Front & rear (almost same size as the E46 M3). I would also assume the suspension is spec'd a bit different also, and 17" wheels are the min. & std.

NO The E36 Coupe/Sedan/Wagon have a multi-link rear end. The E36 Compact/Z3 (Coupe & Roadster incl 'M') have the same Semi-Trailing Arm rear end as the E30. They have the Geometry as the E30 (same Sweep angle 15°, same Subframe / Shock / Spring Mounting locations). The 'assembled' trailing arms are not identical. eg. Brake Hardline brackets all vary. They are all 5lug obviously, and come in varied hub offsets, with the E30 M3 & M-Coupe/Roadster having the least offset, to the 6cyl Z3's with the most offset. There is also some variance in wheel bearing size across the Compact/Z3/E30 Trailing arms. The M-Coupe/Roadster trailing arms are easily identifiable by having a brace between the subframe mounting points (looks like an "A") and another brace to the underside of the shock mount. Both of which can be added with a bit of DIY to any trailing arm. The M trailing arms also have much larger bearings and casting for the outer CV's (same size CV as on the M3 Coupe/Sedan), and the corresponding larger rear brakes from the M3. The E46 Compacts share the same Multi-link rear end as the other 3'er of the chassis.

Looking Sharp!! Is that Castor reading correct? -3º is very low. I thought stock E36's were -6º and M3's nearer -9º Also, toe setting for track are best at 0 to +1/8" (1/16" each side - Toe-out) reason being, the toe changes with bump travel, and with the rack infront of the axle the toe changes are outwards. If you've set low -ve toe(in) on hard braking +bump, Toe will change from toe-in to toe-out, which can be quite unsettling. With 0 (or +ve) toe, it's pretty crap to drive on the street (esp. with wide rubber) & tracks all over the show. With a bit of rear toe-in you will maintain straight-line stability (and rear camber typically 1 - 1.5º LESS than the front) Just my 2c worth

Dang, them be some big cans to stick under the backend! I gather you'll be utilising the vacuum actuated outlets etc... ? Was the mod'd valve body better value from the states the MV Autos in Adelaide?

[sh!t stir] Did you have the wheels of Yongxi? Did you not use a torque wrench? [/sh!t stir]

What Turbo & WG are you using?? That is a lot of creep, reminds me on my old Mazda BFMR

And local Paul. I smell a test drive coming on Would really need to be a touring though

Tell me about it... Someone needs to pull finger. You'll be getting harased for sound clips & movie next Westy Will get some pics up when I've finished the downpipe. Otherwise it's just like page 1

and I hassle Westy... It's the 'tall poppy syndrome' you see, he actually has some progress, so when it is slower than expected, we haras him. Where as mine is working on more of a geological timescale, so progress in unperceivalbe and thus shielding me from any flack. Well that's my POV any way. Coming up to it's 10yr aniversary next year. And it has been on the road and fully finctional many times over that 10yr period. It's just never quite right, so I keep tinkering.