E30-323ti

Looking great, and loving the attention to detail, but..... I certainly hope replacing the 'Champiro' tyres is at the top of the priority list....

Very Nice!!

Nice work!! but... ...while the sump was off, you should have 'just slotted in' one of those M54B30 botton-ends Brent had. if only it was that easy aye...

Yeah, I spotted the dodgy-ness last time it was on TM. Was listed by a dealer at the time, then turned up on the Turners auctions someone said. Looks like it has gotten dodgy-er with the WBS* build plate added for further attempted authenticity. Pity the cert plate would undoubtably have conflicting chassis numbers now. It's a shame as it looks like a fairly tidy and complete conversion, and a nice looking E36. They should try selling it for what it is, rather than being so dishonest.

They should be 17x8" BBS RX204's I have a set of 6 (with Dunlop semi-slicks) I would be happy to let go, but not willing to split sorry.

I second that motion. mad props!!!

I likes! Nice personal touch. + never really liked the work wheels it had.

There is a '07 GSR600 engine on TM. Prob. a bit pricey at ~2k iirc

rofl On a more serious note, I walked past a V.nice ACS kitted Ti last night, and was thinking to myself, that would be awesome with an M60B44

The US had the M5 & 540iS (as did europe). Canada had the M540 aka the 'Canadian M5' Which did have a lot of the actual M5 goodies, but they did not get the 3.6 or 3.8 M5's IIRC

the bolt is slotted and the eccentric tube has a key way inside much like a crankshaft does it cant come out so once you have your adjustment set and nuts cranked up it would be very unlikely to move. Ah, I see it now, stet the previous queries then

How does the bolt turn the eccentric sleeve to 'adjust' ?? eg. The KMAC ones have a 'keyed' bolt to rotate the whole bush IIRC to adjust. These are rubbish as the sleeve is concentric and the 'bush' rotates out of adjustment. Theory say P=F/A knurling the end reduces the contact area thus increasing the pressure...

They look nice. 2 changes I would suggest. The wider bush, thin down the other, and have a large hex on the steel insert, so you can adjust them easily when gettign an alignment. On the other end of the steel insert, put some verigations/serations so it grips the sub-frame when they are torque'd up, to stop them rotating.

^^ Is this not you then: TardMe I recall you mentioning it a while back, and said at the time to check the E36 compatability to increase the market, and assumed..... I am 90% sure they share the same caliper mount spacing, and offset (in relation to the disc). So, unless the disc is being push out a silly amount (as the E24/28/32/34 have deep hats) then a suitable alternative rotor could be sourced for E36's eg. C5 Corvette Rotors oe E46 M3 (csl even, pretty sure Darren had these instock at some point NZAD has some E36 M3 ones at present).

I think BM Weapon was developing something for the E28/32/34 They were on trademe just the other day. These have the same caliper mounting as the E36 IIRC But you would need to find some discs with the right hat height to suit. and am I the only one who can see the pics? WTF...

**face-palm** Just weld up an open wheeler

Don't forget they run restrictors on the inlets to the airbox (2 @ 28mm ea IIRC)

as my 2yr old would say "I drove one of those last week, Yeeeeas, the other day" Good work!! And looks more complete than my E30 these days

There is usually enough 'give' in the whole system for the rack to be high or low within the cross-member. But if there are no spacers, then the tabs must be done up so tight they have been bent to do up onto the rack. This will also mean the whole bolted surface is not in contact with the rack, and possibly only the outer edge. So yes, they may be tight, but not becuase the rack is held tight, hopefully there are spacers in there...

Are the rack bolts done up tight?? ie. the whole rack isn't moving left-right. IIRC you should have also added spacers between the rack and cross-member.

Are you wanting wide tyres to try and prevent kerb scrapage?? A wider tyre isn't necessarily going to do that for your. You are better off looking at the various brands of tyres to see which has a bigger (is any) rim protector. IIRC the old Dunlop FM-901's use to have massive rim protectors (~10mm out from the lip). Tirerack tech info I think the Bridgestone RE-001's have a bit of protection, as do some of the Falkens' (FK-451)

I found them too tall on a 16" rim. Peeled a front guard out pulling into a driveway with them. On the rear wouldn't have the same issue though.

Do you mean a '90 320i.... I ran 225/45 R16 on an 16x7" et28 rim with no rubbing anywhere. Pretty sure a 235 won't come in that profile & a /50 will be too tall. A 205/50 is also an option to look at

Looking nice!! Did you put the RCA's in the front? Saw them in the shiny parts pile, but on the assembled pics.... Isn't the GTS-4 rear diff an R200? Vs the R230 of the GTR?? Any strength issues going to arise?

*shakes head* 'smashing' things is what crashes are for, not a technical or engineering term Have a look at some E30 DTM car pics, you will see they have the strut tops mounted above the strut tower. Obviously the strut towers have some (ie a lot of) strengthening.