E30-323ti

I gather you have coilovers then. Seems odd you would even be running stock-ish top hats. Vorshlag or GC camber plates will get you some more height at the top of the strut, as I imagine you are wanting more bump travel out of the front shocks? The Vorshlag ones would be my pick: Those rear shock mounts are so you can run E36 rear dampers on an E30. They do nothing for the ride height.

Something Italian *cringe*

No worries, PM me your email address.

I have a set of 6 with some worn DZ02G's Have some pics at home I can email if you are interested. They are not mint but were on my track car.

IIRC it should be 120Nm (~88ftlbs) Did they rattle gun them, then the torque wrench? implying all were torqued too much initially.

Only issues I can see (other than the AFM & Latte's) is that is should have been put in the wagon not the coupe.

I wouldn't be too put off If you are after something cheap. Just be aware of what you are buying. Could put in a low-ball offer since it isn't what it is advertised as? (nevermind the legalities for the dealer). Also, presuming the dash has been swapped from the donor car, 75k is pretty low for the $$ you'd be lucky to get all the running gear with that mileage for the asking price of the whole car.

Neither, could do a lot better, like an E30 M3 Sport EVO one..... It's almost as far back as my 1JZ And, it looks like a CF Supercharger, not a turbo.

oops, wrong button

LOL that was my comment / suggestion. And didn't say it was too small for the engine, I said, Personally, I think it is too small. My guess is, at best, it's a T3 core w/stg 3 Turbine (55mm exducer) & T04B comp-cover w/S-trim Comp-wheel (inducer of 48.3mm), but I don't think you could measure it that badly. ~42mm which is more like a 50 Trim T03 Comp-wheel in a T03 Comp-HSG T03 50trim Compressor Map (with M30B34 @ 9psi ~300hp) As you can see you will fall off the compressor map somewhere ~4k rpm Are you sure this is the original turbo AVO would have supplied? I recall reading a ZOOM magazine (a long time ago) which had a turbo E28 & E34 (2.8l & 3.4l) article which I think had the AVO kits?? GT3582R Compressor Map FYI (same boost/power from above) and very happy GT3582R - 400hp on 16psi Good to hear you are going with a tune-able ECU, it will make it more reliable in the long run. 'BM Weapon' has a lot of experience with turbo M30's so would be a good point of contact. IIRC his turbo's were in the full T4 size range (a T70 rings a bell).

It is in an E21, which has the bonnet sitting on top of the guards, so has a bit of height and not likely to be out of the bonnet. Could be a lesser model E21, which only have single head lamps. NEITHER OF WHICH ARE OF ANY RELEVANCE SINCE IT IS JUST THE ENGINE/BOX THAT ARE FORSALE

and it is an ad for the ENGINE not a car. But yes, pics' of the hot-side and even build/parts pics' would be better for selling it considering the $6k price tag.

or the 3rd line of my initial post lol x2

The way they are 'celebrating' killing OBL it almost condones the mentality of 'an eye for an eye'. And as someone else said, will make stuff all difference in the scheme of things. OBL has most likely been a liability to the terrorist movement with every redneck American chasing around after him with a gun.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/4956336/To...-of-destruction

Thought the price was a bit too good to be true.... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-372768469.htm Cert plated seemed a bit odd as it has the 'model' as M3, then certifies a whole bunch of OE M3 equipment. Run the VIN into the etk says it is a '96 318is M44 Auto, explains a bit. Also note the CIN is technically incorrect, which in this case could expose the seller if you were savvy enough. Personally, looks like a very tidy example of an E36, with a clean M3 conversion, but is a dishonest and misleading sale (assuming the seller actually knows the details).

Reduced castor on the LHS is common, as this is the wheel that gets banged into the kerb each time you go into an angle park or hit the wheel stop, also pulling into driveways etc... from the LHS has a similar effect (as opposed to from the RHS crossing the centreline where you are squarer onto the kerb). The other thing to remember is to ask the alignment tech to center the steering rack. This involves removing the rack-end boots and measuring when the rack is centered, then aligning the steering wheel + a lot of toe adjustment will prob. be needed. They never usually do this as most cars are 'assumed' to be near centered, but even a little bit out x15yrs of alignments it can get quite far out.

I wouldn't consider an E36/46 multi link rear for a rally car, lateral links are too flimsy as they are designed to fail to save other critical components like the sub-frame. If I were to move away from the semi-trailing arms, I would be heading towards a lateral A-arm / Strut setup for simplicity (easy to fabricate, tune & replace components). Most tarmac/gravel rally's at the level being entered, isn't won by the flashiest chassis suspension, it's the driver who is prepared to put the most on the line, as there is bugger all prize money, sponsorship or kudo's for winning, it's a personal thing. IMHO anyway.

I gather you mean where they are attached to the rear subframe? To get +15-20cm per side, the outer trailing arm mounts will need to be outboard of the rear subframe mount. sounds f'd too me. Having been involved in a fair bit of rallying, the best thing you can do, is use as near as possible to stock components for expendable items like suspension arms, tie-rod etc... as they tend to get used, and if they don't, you're not trying hard enough!! (unless you have plenty of $$ to have a stack or prefabricated parts available). Even a rear sub-frame should be in your spare parts, as they are known to bend given a decent whack.

Will have a look, thanks

Same here: $100 depot to depot with mainfreight. Also have used JD Lyons with-out issue.

Sorry for dragging OT. 'Track' isn't wider, as the stock wheels are 15x7" et47. To late in the day to do the maths on that. Hub flange to Hub flange, MZ3 < ti/Z3 < Z3 (6cyl) Also sticking with readily available compact TA's means it is cheaper to have a stack of them in the service vehicle. They are almost an expendable component, and can be swapped out very quickly (esp. if you ditch the cable handbrake).

I like!! But don't want a second mortgage.

I think you have got that backwards. The M Coupe is ~18mm narrower on each side (than the compact) and the M Roadstar wheels are very low offset (rear: 17x9" et8). Easy to check by comparing the rotor height of the E36 M3 rear rotors Vs the Compact. Correct that they do use the same, larger bearings/CV's/axles & brakes from the rear of the E36 M3. And that the Z3 drive flanges will fit the compact trailing arms/bearings.

Must be enough of a market for just about every electronic manufactures to supply DVB-T / MPEG4 / H264 capable TV's / PVR's / Set-top boxes. And as you say "its only a firmware thing" but agree the glacial pace at which BMW NZ could get anything done.........