E30-323ti

Don't got to a 215, way too small for anything useful, and in a 40 profile is like a rubberband. A 235/40 is a good size for a 8.5" rim, and almost almost an inch less in OD than the 45's you have As others have said previously (me incl), get some -ve camber in the front end for starters. Either with camber plates, or shims for the knuckle (turner motorsport do a kit for this). The shims are a quick'n'easy way to go, as with the et13 wheels you'll have acres of clearance to the strut. Also look at grafting some E46 flared arches on there and run some meaty tyres, look almost factory on the E36's. Refer to Vorshlag Motorsport for some 'how to'

Not sure if this has been mentioned, or an issue with my settings(?), but when I click on a topic to read (filtered by new since my last visit), one I have read before, the old forum software use to send me to the last post when I'd last read the topic, so could continue reading happily. Now however,clicking on the topic sends me to post 1 - page 1, and I either have to skip to the end and work backwards, or if i'm lucky recall the page/post I was up to... Is this a setting? or some kind of cache thing?

They look a bit too lush for a 'Hack Car'

Do Like!! Tyres look like they fill the guard perfectly!! Did you still need spacer on the rear to get them to sit right?

Some 235/40's and a bit more 'cause racecar' -ve camber up front might do it. You'll need to find an ACS front lip to go on rather than a M-sport one I reckon!

I quite like the posting arrangement, keeps all the 'build' in one place, and the discussion flowing afterwards. Only prob is it makes it hard to link/refer back to specific build items by url or some other referencing method (date / list bullets etc...). Other forums have the build & discussion threads separated, which is good, and better when the 'builders' have links to both in their signature.

I'd be looking at getting outer drive flanges made (imagine an old CV with a flange welded on) and use a std-ish / regularly available axle. If I recall, there are some off the shelf chromoly axles (with CV's) for the VT era commodores (or the Pontic GTO in the US) that are flanged both ends that use the 108mm 6bolt CV's. Like THESE for example. Even shopping cheaper, the E28 / E34 / E32 use 108mm flanged CV axles, plenty of those in the wrecker yards these days and were used in 2 tonne limos with plenty of power / torque. The other benefit of that is, the outer drive flanges aren't 'consumables' and you can get then setup to suit a std replacement axle length (eg. the common-whore or BMW axles). Nothing worse than breaking a custom built part at the track and not having readily available spares.

You probably want to look at the E46 M3 or the 330D, from memory both have a large case diff so likely to have the larger flanged inboard CV's. The E46 doesn't have flanged outer CV's so not sure how you plan to get from the diff to the CV (or drive flanges). By the sounds of the diff your going with I'm sensing some animal action will be imposed on the axles, making them a consumable item... Do so researching / cross checking on RealOEM (Online BMW ETK parts catalog), as you may also need the corresponding trailing arms that go with the Axles (Outer CV's)

Have a look a 'Crunchy's Turbo E34, he has stood the engine up a fair way, not vertical, but has created a lot of space in doing so.

Hi steve, I looked into this for my E30 many years ago, and the problem if I recall was a conflict with the rear shock mount and the axle flange. That is why I dropped the whole E28 back-end in my E30 (and the improve geometry of course). There are a few pic's around the net of some dodgy workarounds to extend the rear shock mount further rearward (might have a pic/link at home). The other option I thought of was making some custom drive flanges from a pair of old CV's, but given the state (and small diam.) of the splines of the ones I removed, it didn't seem like a wise choice. [edit] The other issue I just recalled was the wheel mounting side of things ended up a long way inboard, and would need thing spacers to mount even shallow offset rotors. [/edit] [edit] Found this on some Swede/Finish forum years ago, NB they've also swapped over E32/34 diff mount to the E30 subframe, seems a bit OTT given the E28 Big Case housing bolts in... [/edit]

The E36 Wheel Bearing are much larger than the E30's. The Struct / Kunckle connection is also much stiffer than the E30 1pc as it is not legal in NZ to weld any stiffeners to the cast parts, also BMW went back to the E36 style strut connection for the Z4M's (stiffer than the E46 knuckles). With the E36 setup you can fit factory (front) brakes from the 320's 286x22 upto the 345x28 used on the E46 M3 CSL. It seems these days you can even use Z4 rear drive flanges (5lug) to keep the E30'esque wheel offsets and use the E36/46 Rear Rotors (with caliper adapters). Just don't skimp on the (E36 M3 Evo) parts needed to do the front end swap properly.

Here is an old pic of mine on Jamex Super Lows: From memory they were super soft, and the ole girl would squat like crazy with the 1JZ power. Later they were replaced with King Spring Lows, which sat about the same height but were stiffer. Also remember Pre-FL rear arches are higher (like mine) than FL (like _BRS_)

Probably not quite what you are after, but Ireland Engineering in the US sell new reproductions. They might be Plastic or FRP.

Yeah, the E32 / 34 subframes are too wide, and the diff casing & mounts are completely different. A late E28 one should be easy to find, Brent use to have heaps of them. Obviously you can't use the late arms with the early subframe...

That did come to my mind also. Probably the case. The early E28's have a different subframe and trailing arms than the later (same as E34 arms). The sweep angle is different 15° on the old (same as an E30) and 12° on the later, they also have the 'dog-bone' links that dynamically control toe to reduce the toe-in as the suspension squats. So best go find yourself a later model subframe. This is what I have in my E30.

I can fit 16's over my brembos w/325mm rotors (and even some 15's on the rear with 312mm M3 rotors). Even those brakes can loose some bite on the track with road pads, with the pagids race pads they just seem to bite harder. E46 330i rotors whilst a good diameter are only 25mm thick, and have a basic venting arrangement. M3 rotors have much wider vents and are radial (handed left/right) to keep cool. Having been through several degrees of bbk on the E30, doing it again I'd go for something like the 300mm race setup that Massive do with a 4 or 6 pot will wood over a 32mm thick rotor.

Yip, those are the ones. Even the Throwing Stars look nice on the E28 (take a look at Brent's M88 powered E28) Everyone wants Style 5's /BBS RS's, bit over them personally.

On that red beauty I'd be looking for some e34 M5 turbines, very close era/style match to those TRX's.

You sure they are not 270's Also check the tyre height could be 65 or 650 possibly 680's (think that was on the rear of the porsche GT3's with a 240 or 250/650 on the front [sometime shown as 24/65])

If you trawl back on the Bimmerforums 'Track / Autocross' section you'll find a bunch of threads for running 265/35's on 18x10's for 'stock' fendered E36's (ie. rolled & pulled). Are you planning on running Semi's (Like R888's) or going for Slicks?

N54/55B30 or replace the M30B34 + turbo it!

Definitely stick with a 2pc drive shaft. I went through numerous 1pc shafts (2.75" to 3" thin & tick walled), and all had vibrations of varying degrees. Went back to a 2pc and it was as smooth as silk. I should caveat the statement with the vibration being at ~6000 driveshaft rpm, so race track speeds of ~220kph But not the distraction you want along the back straight at manfield...

An old forum member on here did the head on his 535i. Head came from BMW, was a complete factory remanufactured head for the M30B34, may NLA but give them a call anyway...

^what he said^ and they need to be hub-centric to the hub & the wheel. Rogue, Turner H&R do good quality spacers.

Looks mint!! Hopefully it does the trick! What lines (system) did you go for? I was going to try the Fragola 8000 Push-Lok stuff with my external oil T-stat.