Eagle

Seems expensive for you you are getting. What i plan on getting after doing some research. Gets me everything while retaining all OEM functions. https://www.ebay.com/itm/XTRONS-7-Android-8-1-Car-DVD-Player-RCA-GPS-DAB-OBD2-Radio4G-for-BMW-E39-E38/332369784170?hash=item4d62c86d6a:g:FGcAAOSwaSVb~hDc:rk:1:pf:0

Can't see how that any different from the 6 cyl tbh, they are old at this point and the engines history has far more influence than age alone. Best to worse cooling system wise imo would be M52B28 > M44 > M43 > M52TU\M54

If you can't find any in Hamilton i know Pick a part in Takanini and Direct Auto Dismantlers in Rotorua have passenger seats that could probably be used,.

Yeah im guessing the "high k's" isn't helping the sale either, but in my experience 300k+ BMW engines have always run clean and strong. Im sure yours is the same.

New Ruville M60\M62 Chain tensioner - Made in Germany - $40 New FTE E23\E32\E34 etc M30 slave cylinder - $30 Manual transmission joint rod new foam pad and washers - 25117580281 - $10 Corteco auto transmission mounts - Still in good condition, done approx 40,000km - Fits many BMW - 22316799331 - $15 E39 LHD clutch line - Ordered by accident but still incorporated in a RHD setup - 21526751171 - $40 E39 RHD clutch pedal - $20 E39 RHD Pre 09\97 Brake pedal - $20

Haha nuts and bolts are usually the first thing you check, guess everyone was trusting in your engine mount replacement skills . I had a weird front end clunk when loading\turning and it was loose subframe bolts. Least no one will have to touch the front end for awhile. Good stuff that HPR5 though, i got a 20L for $157 @ Repco on sale.

For future reference: The reverse light signal for the low cluster is pin #4 on the black instrument cluster plug. I ended up re-routing the reverse switch wires up the old auto shift cable hole, running it under center console and behind the climate control panel, radio etc and out behind the dash to join the existing wires. Its the only wire you will ever have to run doing this conversion as i used the old auto shift selector ground for my new ground.

Guessing its along the same lines as most newer models which involve holding down the trip reset with ign on?.

Yeah having an extra set of hands and eyes would of been great. Im running a S54 DMF, not that it means a lot. The ZHP is weighted which seems to do the job in that area, ive used them on all the manuals ive and with no disadvantages.

All finished except the reverse light wiring which will be done when i can find a low OBC wiring diagram. The new shifter setup using the shorter E60 lever and ZHP knob is much improved. The stock setup had the problems of being to tall for me which meant i couldn't relax my arm on the rest perpendicular to the knob. Truck throw length is gone also but shifting is slightly more notchy as expected, still very livable. Throttle response and off the line performance is day and night compared to the old auto, but that's party due to my old torque converter slipping a low revs. I'm expecting it to get even easier to drive and less fuel once i get used to the clutch and its fully bedded in. Counting down the k's till i can really give it a proper work and make it feel like it was worth the ~3.5k it cost haha.

Not so much BMW's but ive been exposed too far many rank cars with fabric seats, i dont even want to know what they would of absorbed over the years.

Ended up removing the transmission myself which wasn't too bad. The corroded starter dowel holding on for dear life and transmission dust over bolt i forgot to undo were the only issues, but my mate brute force sorted those bastards out. The replacement ZF went in very easy and even easier to bolt up with all the extra space in the tunnel. Given we are RHD, i routed the required clutch signal wire (using a ex transmission wire) and reverse light wires through the clutch line hole, made sense to me as its less wire to run and they need connect to the clutch module and instrument cluster respectively. Reverse light wiring runs runs under the heat shielding prior to going in the hole. Also made my own brake switch-clutch module adapter out of old plugs and wires from the donor car to keep it tidy, even got some Tessa tape. Swapped a pin from the EGS to DME for clutch signal then used PA soft to recode DME and IKE for manual and realigned the EWS. Car started and ran with no issues. Will follow up with NCS at some point to change the checksum to manual to complete that side of it. Few more hours finishing off then i should be driving tomorrow begin breaking in the clutch.

Haha yeah its not far off at all, would make a good twin. Style 42's aren't common sight to see on any BMW i think. Got the ACS\Eibach 27mm front and 18mm rear swaybars in which has fattened it out much nicer than stock but it does now high light the need for springs and dampeners even more.

Got the front bumper sorted with black msport trims to match but i do need to sort a rear one to re-enable rear PDC. Also fitted clear celis tail lights and fender indicators to match the replacement front Hella xenons, i did prefer the orange but it was easier to go with clears. Thought about doing shadowline door trim also but decided i like the chrome which compliments the wheels and grille, and its a bastard now so may as well continue with it. Going into Tuesday to do most of the manual driveline conversion with a hoist (thanks to Kerry at Mosens). After that i'll finally get around to lowering it once i decide on struts and sport seats when i find a good set.

From what ive seen Mercedes use a different plastic blend, generally appear to run cooler thermostats, better layouts and likely have less plastic components in the cooling system. 90's era cars are were they started to make a name for themselves. Id imagine modern BMW's are likely even worse with more\lesser quality plastics, turbos, smaller\packed engine bays etc. I run Goodrain blades on my E39, they are very cheap and perform excellent at all speeds.

Nice. Its like the my fathers range rover, same engine and colour

I gave my damaged msport bumper away and it will be used to fix someone elses one. Got a whole bunch of ACS suspension and bodywork parts which included a PFL bumper with ACS addon lip as shown below. I quite like the look but it needs to painted to match my car. Msport bumpers look nice but they just too fragile for the roads here with all the extra under carriage, too low and too weak for me to bother with esp when im going to lower it in the near future.

Sounds like a worn tensioner pulley. Long screw driver placed on tensioner housing with ear attached should confirm. EDIT: Or idler pulley, forgot you have a TU

Depends on your budget really, the M20B25 would be cheapest option by far as you can keep everything. Going to the M5X engines is going cost a bit coming from a B20 M20 auto, you'd probably want to manual convert it, upgrade brakes, suspension etc. M54 is fine if you got knowledge and\or money to do it, otherwise M52 is probably the next best option, it's not quite the power of the M54 but it's cheaper, easier to work on and more reliable.

At least you know where not to go next. The place i go always comments on BMW being tidy, i tell him its not really its just you guys are used to seeing crap. They always agree.

Sound like typical WOF testing places, most are on the same level as your average tyre shop. Used fix so many cars for failing with brake bias, service and handbrake. They seem equate their set brake roller test % with set variables to actual real world performance. IIRC smoke test is rev it up 2-3k for 30s, they probably had it idling for ages and didn't even do that the first time. How much of the SLS system did you remove? Sounds like they only noticed due to new parts?

Nice. Half the reason of the thread was to document to give others an idea in regards to RHD and older version. Much of the RHD parts are hard to find or NLA. What setup are you planning on using?. The later 528i (preferable the TU) would be ideal unless you score a wrecked M54B30 manual car. An early 523i would work also as they have the ZF box and slightly shorter 3.15 diff which maybe a benefit

Thought i had a small issue with the older clutch pedals but turns out i could of easily re-used my earlier one instead of buying a new one. The new style clutch master cylinders have a clutch switch mounted on the side of them making the stop obsolete. RealOEM isnt very helpful when it comes to this sort of thing. Brake pedal is a different story as it completely different for the facelift DBW setups. Couldn't find a manual RHD brake pedal but the auto pedal is identical to the manual in regards to shaft shape and position, so just needs the pedal reduced. Do it right and its basically factory in regards to fit and distances, it's just has the foot wielded on the opposite side to the manual version. Completed Tidied up transmission and replaced all shifter bushings, clutch components and rear seals. New hanger bearing and centering sleeve. Looks like CV has been done at some point which i was hoping it would have. Correct ratio 2.93 diff. 2500rpm @ 100kph Turned out my SMF flywheel conversion done by the previous owner was an M20 228mm flywheel conversion (****ing cheap ****) but i managed to score an old (but still plenty of life) DMF from an awesome guy named Kayne Barrie. Waiting on my new 240mm Luk clutch kit then should be good to proceed.

Done a few idler arms in E34 and E32's and other cars with boxes so not uncommon. May someone did an incorrect installation on the previous stuff.

Not sure what BMW spec but it sounds reasonable. Key on and off a few times may have brought it up to 50. Did you check the pressure when being revved, like 2-3k. Did you disconnect the fpr via vacuum hose in engine bay and check that.