Eagle

In my experience there are usually some that are a little longer or shorter. The link below will tell you. bmwfans.info/parts-catalog

Are you really surprised though? They been using the Japanese play book for awhile now but it still takes awhile to catch up to the masters.

Love childen of Transformers and Fast and Furious franchises

Latest version 4 has good reviews, the rest were upto standard it seems.

Not so sweet anymore unfortunately, but i'll give it credit that its still on the road, which is certainly in part due to its simplicity im sure. No one is going to pulling off 4 decades with an average car these days.

Avin Avant 4 appears to be a good option, although can get expensive if you want extra features.

As above i think its all you can really do at this point if you are sure your install is correct, can't imagine it would be worth changing out things again due to cost and time?. I agree strut\shocks themselves don't affect the height to any real degree in this instance but ive always got slight lift from replacing many worn OE Sachs with new aftermarket units and associated strut\shock hardware, there's certainly a few small hardware and install variables that could combine can change things compared to old setup. It really doesn't much force to transfer some load off a car spring to raise the height by a little.

True but when people say really high revs i think like 5-6k on these. If its just engine braking in the mid range then normal as above. Still likely needs a service.

You always going to get some lift but 30mm does sound too much if the install is correct. Maybe some one swapped or spec'd sport suspension after the build date. Did the car sit lower than a std E46, have you measured the swaybars diameters?

Sounds like the transmission needs a full service asap and the leak identified (lots of places for coolant and oil leaks). If the transmission shifting problems are fixed after that then it may be worth getting a full check done to see whats needed\how far you want to go, then proceed from there Lots of rubber and plastic wear items on these M54 engines unfortunately - plastic coolant pipes under the intake manifold and crankcase vent valve with rubber and plastic hoses are quite expenses fixes if paying labour on top of parts. It's typically only enthusiasts that work for free and buy their parts that bring these cars up to good condition (and keep them running). Understandably the costs involved to the average person aren't worth it given the price of these cars now. BM Workshop have a good rep

Yeah not surprising at your mileage. Touring is certainly harder and more costly to do which also adds insult.

I change all fluids and filters on every car i buy unless i can confirm its been done when specified. Should be able check the actual operating temp via hidden OBC menu? or scan tool and compare it with the t-stat rating Is it just diesel combustion smoke? A full scan with intake and exhaust smoke test is probably a good idea to start with

Yeah it's like SLS accumulators in the older 7 series, i think many tourings are likely driving around on worn bushings. My brothers old touring drove fine until you going over road imperfections.

Spotted a set of Lemforder subframe bushings on trademe for $50 and thought i couldn't afford not to install them. Don't usually bother with pullers but for $120 i thought id give this ebay one a go. I removed some burrs, gave the old ones a cold chizel to seat the puller, then added some heat, very easy removal with the install needed very little pressure with the old dish soap. Old bushings weren't bad but the rubber on the new ones was firmer, it seems has translated into a tighter rear end under quick steering input.

Maybe its got a curse on it

Damn, hopefully its electrical rather than the internals. Has the transmission even been worked on?

Yeah someone already posted about this work of art awhile back

GL chap

You can retrofit cruise control easy enough if you get the parts off a wreck etc.

Reads to me like he spent a wad of cash on the upgrades, doesn't want to\cbf certing it or returning it to stock, so he's try to sell it before the WOF expires and its illegal. Can't see a cert it would devalue it either, you can revert it back to stock and get the plate removed when selling it. It devalued because it has none not one. The original struts\dampeners are likely to be tired at 150,000km which is why he likely fitted the Bilsteins in the first place, so fitting them would of waste of time\money.

That vacuum line should go the air injection valve below the MAF\intake boot. Never had much luck with spray testing myself, smoke tester is much better. Apart from what Glenn mentioned, intake manifold gaskets do fail on these, you can add the appropriate 2-3mm thick washer under the bolt head to help compress the gasket if they are leaking.

Wouldn't hesitate buying a M60 V8. They have a few weak points like any engine (mainly leaks and PCV system) but they don't have any major expensive failures like the later BMW V8's. They get better fuel economy than the M30 while being much more powerful. Not bad to work on but it can vary depending on what you doing. M50's are certainly the the most balanced choice, they like to rev but lack the torque of the M30. They don't have the ease of access compared to the M30 and aren't quite as robust externally with more things to fail being the of the newer design 6's.

Possibly torque convertor shudder. As above change the fluid and filter and reset transmission adaption. Ive had good results with Lubeguard for worn torque convertors along with the fluid change

Fair enough. I think the hardest part these days is finding one, not so many E32 and E34's for sale anymore.

Prices have changed a bit since then, highly unlikely you'd get a manual 535i that sort of money these days unless it was in rough condition. You usually up spending 1000's to get cheap ones upto scratch anyway.