Eagle

Depends on what required i suppose. My old M20 setup was fine apart from the installer using the wrong release bearing causing poor pedal engagement, i did want to put much more power thru it than the stock M52 2.8L it was on so i went with the E46 M3 dual mass and M54 clutch setup to support the 3L. Ive never had any chatter from BMW factory single mass flywheels on any car and the car drove way better than it does now as it didnt have a self adjusting clutch (which i cant wait to wear out)

All ZF's are essentialy the same. Both boxes can be used with any flywheel\clutch but i wouldnt use a std m20 clutch behind a 3.0l, m20 flywheel is only 220 vs 240 factory spec for M5x engines. ZF driveshaft is different, maybe the cross member I can't recall.

+1 Mosen Europarts

I switched to the Penrite 7 year stuff which Repco and SCA stock, has BMW approval and far better priced than the BMW stuff (least in Hamilton). You'd want to flush all the old BMW coolant out though.

Yeah there cant be many places it could go

Throttle body probably normal given its DBW, once its energized it probably changes. Earth likely onto a post around the coil secured by a nut or onto top of a bolt with threads in.

Could write an essay about all that but it would be preaching to the choir, DYOR and check yourself before you wreck yourself sums it up. If he's still on the original tank of petrol the car came with then fair enough. Good majority of hack jobs are done because the customers wants the car back ASAP and wants to spend as little of possible. Id say most mechanics like using new parts and its easier and less change of call backs. You get many uses out of them and they provide the right amount of feel with protection. They only really fail when they get ripped on sharp connector plugs, corners etc

Haha same as what i did with my M covers when i swapped them. I forgot i even did it until i was cleaning one day. I agree but having done least half a dozen sets using that method i still say f**k you Hella every time i do them. I wish the Xenons worked as well as they looked.

Reads like something he came up with in a dream. Never mind the fact that BMW produced a sh*t tonne of them. He should be buying, financing, selling assets and buying to buy all the M3's he can get his hands on. Tripling your money in 3 years, cant pass that up.

So just another baller on a budget special

Direct auto dismantlers in Rotorua had some a couple of months back if you get desperate. They were in reasonable condition but needed all seat adjusters repaired for twisting, wanted like $500 but i wasn't that desperate for them and cbf fixing them at the time.

Put your last 7 digits on your chassis number into http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog that will give you a list of part numbers required. Its probably easier and cheaper to buy a complete new head or maybe engine if you just want to fix it. They shouldn't be that expensive or hard to get (least they didn't used to be, i dont keep track of prices tbh) Given yours in an 1982 and the change over year you need to see if it was built before or after Sept '82 to verify the later heads are compatible. I dont know what if any difference there is in the earlier blocks and heads (<9.82) compared to later ones (>9.82) but others here probably know. All M20 engines are timing belt M20 based stuff is fairly interchangable and you can fix and match most the parts so you can upgrade the fuel injection to later motronic injection, put bigger engine 2.5 or 2.7L engine in etc etc, depends on how far you want to go and much you want to spend.

Haha. I dont know the previous owner is crying so much, sure the interior ain't for everyone but rest of the upgrades + better engine make it a far better car than the average wagon.

If you wanted to incorporate an arm workout into a brake job then its not a bad idea. If you wanted to skip the most of the workout but still remain a rugged kiwi then a longish flat blade screw driver would have been the better option.

Right. I just done for GST for the first time in awhile since 2x separate packages under $375 came at the same time so they decided to do me. I dont mind paying GST but its all other BS fees they tack on that piss me off. Yeah Amazon can be good and using Fedex, USPS etc, even though they ain't cheap they are far better than going thru f**king NZ post which you now have to jump thru so many hoops just to get your package its ridiculous. They have certainly teamed up with customs these days to increase their Youshop profits.

Cant blame the exchange rate as its been practically the same since mid '15.

Reason ive never liked fwd cars is they are generally harder to work on than a the rwd equivalent. Modern rwd BMW's are bad enough with cramped engine bays and dubious design, so im sure they will be even worse in fwd (or 4wd if you are a sucker for punishment)

Owned most the higher end ones over the years but using Uniden R1 atm as i dont need GPS. I think its better than anything else on the market for the price. Only issue is it wont pick up mobile speed camera vans because the K band freq doesnt cover that range, not a big deal given they are easily spotted. Mine is hardwired but i only really turn it on for long trips mainly as a passing safe guard

The M52 is likely best all round option and is probably the cheapest and easiest to find. The M50 is certainly the strongest engine with a nice top end . The M54 is more complex and more work on install, has more problems and is harder to work on compared with the others. It's a nice daily driver engine, but main benefits are mostly lost on a track car unless you are going to modify it internally.

Damn. Still doesn't make sense why anyone would try to sell (guessing insurance company in this case) or buy this thing. You'd have to pay to some to take it.

Seems everyone is trying their luck these days no matter what condition https://www.turners.co.nz/Damaged-Vehicles/Damaged-Cars-for-Sale/bmw/320-i/19059773

I know you'll get a good run out of it and its already miles better than your average flogged import. Mine has just hit 290,000km and while im going to give it another birthday soon to keep on top of things, most engine related parts are original and still in working order. I wish my paint was as nice as yours, open road driving and living outside really takes a toll.

Pretty much why i parted out all the extra on mine when one of the members here crashed it, then sold the body and running gearbox to another member who fixed it. I dont think mods really add too much value.

Yeah missed it but i dont know who would given it defeats of both options.

Regularly serviced doesn't hold much weight as it doesn't guarantee more than a oil change every 10,000km, air filter cleaned and had fluids topped up. Your car is probably on all the original old components and around the age\mileage where you start getting failures. Id still compare the plugs but a proper having a proper scan tool or a BMW scan system is going to give far more information then a generic code to help pinpoint the issue. We can all guess the problem but there's only so much you can do from the internet unless you want to throw money at. You didn't mention what it runs like at idle when cold.