Eagle

Yeah ive got a spare to do the same at some point

My pixels are good (low obc helps) and cup holders work as new but ive got climate climate buttons randomly popping out instead.

You can run B6 with lowering spring but its not optimal so more risk of running them out of their range, though 30mm may possibly be doable. I ran 40mm H&R with B6's in my old E30 before switching to B8's and having them re-valved at the same time, ride quality and both and rebound control were noticeably better after that. Another option could be to try H&R OE sport springs with B6's to try and recreate a stock sport package. Ive always felt BMW sports setups were good for the average street car with decent rubber and didn't ruin ride quality. I like them but they are expensive and a pita if you want to change rear settings. Boge\Sachs sport dampeners, not sure they would make them for E24 given its quite old.

Yep the days of BMW making whatever they wanted or did want to make are long dead. It looks like other modern fwd turd on the road so id say they know what they are doing.

Done a few on stands without too much effort. I used one of those big vice grip quick grip clamps for the most part and squeezed them quite easily with plenty of lube

Certainly an outlier as your typical Mercedes owner wouldn't dream of pulling a stunt like this. I wonder what the transmission 'rebuilt' consisted of. Early 722.9 would of been crap compared to later 722.6 5 speed.

Sucks as it sounds like a situation where some missed damaged rack boots\neglected them for too long, now you are paying for that down the line. At the same time knowing BMW im sure active steering is good at actively breaking also.

If its an 528i with a M52TU it should be the same as M54

Having tap water just speed the process up. I think most cars ive seen with corrosion issues stem from diluting the coolant to water ratio to no existent, so then you got no inhibitors left. That's even it was the correct coolant type, ratio and wasn't decades old in the first place. Engine swap would be the only way to save it imo

Ah thought it was NZ new for some reason (damn IR key fobs and EU3 etc but that can be fixed :D). Other option is reallocate the OBC which some people have done but hard to make it look nice with a full din unit. Yep im sure ill get around to it after suspension and interior are done. I rarely use any ICE so its pretty low priority for me. Nothing wrong with NZ new 530i spec imo, less to go wrong haha and things can be added easiest enough on these cars.

Does it change at all with revs or when driving, what it does do with just park lights on? Battery good and cable grounds clean and tight? LKM under the hood and dimmer switch on the dash can play up causing weird light behavior Quick check of the wiring under the steering wheel, seat and boot\bootlid and reseatiing plugs and modules doesn't hurt

If you have a the 'high' cluster you are right you would loose that and that changes your decision. I have the 'low' cluster which has very little info displayed on it and is stalk controlled anyway so im not loosing anything meaningful (expect time\date which is N\A once you install this) and have a most modern car features i need. Yeah seen a few Eonon in person but i this one appears to be better in regards to adaptability with steering wheel buttons etc.

Well the 90's has pretty well had its turns so now its onto the new millenium stuff. I think the older or more used 2000's cars are in a limbo position atm as they most arent new enough to be worth anything but not old\rare enough to be sort after, add more controversial styling wise, big step up in complexity\luxury, old\high enough k's to need replacements many original parts and many examples on the market. You can understand why many people ive talked to just want to get rid of them once they have seen a few big bills. I always tell them newer vs older is a trade off.

Seems expensive for you you are getting. What i plan on getting after doing some research. Gets me everything while retaining all OEM functions. https://www.ebay.com/itm/XTRONS-7-Android-8-1-Car-DVD-Player-RCA-GPS-DAB-OBD2-Radio4G-for-BMW-E39-E38/332369784170?hash=item4d62c86d6a:g:FGcAAOSwaSVb~hDc:rk:1:pf:0

Can't see how that any different from the 6 cyl tbh, they are old at this point and the engines history has far more influence than age alone. Best to worse cooling system wise imo would be M52B28 > M44 > M43 > M52TU\M54

If you can't find any in Hamilton i know Pick a part in Takanini and Direct Auto Dismantlers in Rotorua have passenger seats that could probably be used,.

Yeah im guessing the "high k's" isn't helping the sale either, but in my experience 300k+ BMW engines have always run clean and strong. Im sure yours is the same.

New Ruville M60\M62 Chain tensioner - Made in Germany - $40 New FTE E23\E32\E34 etc M30 slave cylinder - $30 Manual transmission joint rod new foam pad and washers - 25117580281 - $10 Corteco auto transmission mounts - Still in good condition, done approx 40,000km - Fits many BMW - 22316799331 - $15 E39 LHD clutch line - Ordered by accident but still incorporated in a RHD setup - 21526751171 - $40 E39 RHD clutch pedal - $20 E39 RHD Pre 09\97 Brake pedal - $20

Haha nuts and bolts are usually the first thing you check, guess everyone was trusting in your engine mount replacement skills . I had a weird front end clunk when loading\turning and it was loose subframe bolts. Least no one will have to touch the front end for awhile. Good stuff that HPR5 though, i got a 20L for $157 @ Repco on sale.

For future reference: The reverse light signal for the low cluster is pin #4 on the black instrument cluster plug. I ended up re-routing the reverse switch wires up the old auto shift cable hole, running it under center console and behind the climate control panel, radio etc and out behind the dash to join the existing wires. Its the only wire you will ever have to run doing this conversion as i used the old auto shift selector ground for my new ground.

Guessing its along the same lines as most newer models which involve holding down the trip reset with ign on?.

Yeah having an extra set of hands and eyes would of been great. Im running a S54 DMF, not that it means a lot. The ZHP is weighted which seems to do the job in that area, ive used them on all the manuals ive and with no disadvantages.

All finished except the reverse light wiring which will be done when i can find a low OBC wiring diagram. The new shifter setup using the shorter E60 lever and ZHP knob is much improved. The stock setup had the problems of being to tall for me which meant i couldn't relax my arm on the rest perpendicular to the knob. Truck throw length is gone also but shifting is slightly more notchy as expected, still very livable. Throttle response and off the line performance is day and night compared to the old auto, but that's party due to my old torque converter slipping a low revs. I'm expecting it to get even easier to drive and less fuel once i get used to the clutch and its fully bedded in. Counting down the k's till i can really give it a proper work and make it feel like it was worth the ~3.5k it cost haha.

Not so much BMW's but ive been exposed too far many rank cars with fabric seats, i dont even want to know what they would of absorbed over the years.

Ended up removing the transmission myself which wasn't too bad. The corroded starter dowel holding on for dear life and transmission dust over bolt i forgot to undo were the only issues, but my mate brute force sorted those bastards out. The replacement ZF went in very easy and even easier to bolt up with all the extra space in the tunnel. Given we are RHD, i routed the required clutch signal wire (using a ex transmission wire) and reverse light wires through the clutch line hole, made sense to me as its less wire to run and they need connect to the clutch module and instrument cluster respectively. Reverse light wiring runs runs under the heat shielding prior to going in the hole. Also made my own brake switch-clutch module adapter out of old plugs and wires from the donor car to keep it tidy, even got some Tessa tape. Swapped a pin from the EGS to DME for clutch signal then used PA soft to recode DME and IKE for manual and realigned the EWS. Car started and ran with no issues. Will follow up with NCS at some point to change the checksum to manual to complete that side of it. Few more hours finishing off then i should be driving tomorrow begin breaking in the clutch.