Neil McCauley 394 Report post Posted October 13 What did you find in the interior with the blacklight 🤔 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
akapjay 41 Report post Posted October 16 Reconnected the E36 battery to start the day. Went a little like this: E36 > Silverdale Bus station > CBD office > Wiri CDG Depot > X5 to Hamilton > Huntly > Epsom > Home > E91 to pick up E36 > cool wee pic of the midlife crisis mobile and family travel wagon together. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dln 14 Report post Posted October 19 Meant to take some pics, but got in mission mode ... 2008 E82 135i. Shift lever to the left no longer engaged sport/manual mode. Internet says broken wire in the gear shift loom so... Centre console out - YouTube saved me some breakage when I thought it should come out but wasn't - under dash covers on both sides hold the front in... Release loom from stupid factory location that flexes with each movement, strip back sticky tape on loom. Sure enough, two disconnected ends looking at me. Strip, twist, tape and re-position to reduce flex. Reassemble console, testing function prior to buttoning up. Nothing broken or missed or left over. Spirited drive to confirm/celebrate. Win. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harper 554 Report post Posted November 3 Helped the old man make some progress on his 318is project. Finally off it's jackstands and moving under it's own power again. And a quick blast to supercheap for some fluids 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dln 14 Report post Posted November 23 1. Replaced old faded side repeaters - was unsure about how black the "smoked" looked in the box, but I think they look ok on the car. Shout out to @Olaf who saved me from breaking the old ones ... https://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/67760-blue-zoo-olafs-lci-e46-325i-touring/page/3/?tab=comments#comment-724975 2. Oil and filter. 3. Bent FL rim on 'test drive'. 😫 F**k - anybody know where to get it fixed in CHCH? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz 1061 Report post Posted November 23 Elite wheels for the rim repair 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3334 Report post Posted November 23 On 11/3/2024 at 7:16 PM, Harper said: Helped the old man make some progress on his 318is project. Finally off it's jackstands and moving under it's own power again. And a quick blast to supercheap for some fluids nice looking iS! I drove a near-new one for ~1200kms in Australia in 1993, a memorable drive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3334 Report post Posted November 23 On 10/19/2024 at 8:39 PM, dln said: Meant to take some pics, but got in mission mode ... 2008 E82 135i. Shift lever to the left no longer engaged sport/manual mode. Internet says broken wire in the gear shift loom so... Centre console out - YouTube saved me some breakage when I thought it should come out but wasn't - under dash covers on both sides hold the front in... Release loom from stupid factory location that flexes with each movement, strip back sticky tape on loom. Sure enough, two disconnected ends looking at me. Strip, twist, tape and re-position to reduce flex. Reassemble console, testing function prior to buttoning up. Nothing broken or missed or left over. Spirited drive to confirm/celebrate. Win. did you solder? or just left them twisted? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dln 14 Report post Posted November 23 38 minutes ago, Olaf said: did you solder? or just left them twisted? Cheap and nasty - just twisted (tightly with long nose pliers) and taped over. Access is pretty restricted and the wires are very small and short - I was worried about getting a soldering iron in there without touching the other ones. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harper 554 Report post Posted November 24 18 hours ago, Olaf said: nice looking iS! I drove a near-new one for ~1200kms in Australia in 1993, a memorable drive. This one is far from new, 270,000km. Required quite a bit of love to get it be a 'nice' car. We're some of the way through building a revvy motor for it. M44 bottom end, with M42 head, ITBs, lightweight flywheel, all rotating assembly balanced etc. It's all going to the machine shop this week. The short block I got from a scrapyard for $200 with 90,000km on it. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goose 44 Report post Posted November 24 Removed, sanded and repainted the “clip-in” roof rails on the 540i this weekend. All the clear coat was coming off, amazing how one tatty component can lower the town of an otherwise tidy(ish) car. Also replaced rear windscreen rubber gasket, used a cheap eBay one but not super happy with the fit, might need to pull it out and replace with genuine. 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3334 Report post Posted November 25 On 11/24/2024 at 3:38 PM, Harper said: This one is far from new, 270,000km. Required quite a bit of love to get it be a 'nice' car. We're some of the way through building a revvy motor for it. M44 bottom end, with M42 head, ITBs, lightweight flywheel, all rotating assembly balanced etc. It's all going to the machine shop this week. The short block I got from a scrapyard for $200 with 90,000km on it. no diesel stroker crank? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harper 554 Report post Posted November 25 9 hours ago, Olaf said: no diesel stroker crank? Ha, it was considered but the cost gets pretty out of hand going that route. You end up having to go custom rods and custom/modified pistons afaik. Still haven't fully decided if we'll commit to cams/valve springs so it can rev to 8k. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3334 Report post Posted November 26 (edited) From what I've read, the M42 crank is forged, the M44 is cast... if you want to head to 8k rpm I think the forged crank is the one... This is an interesting read on M47 cranks... there are variants. 90mm piston and you're on your way to more torque & 2.1 litres woohoo! http://m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=1921.15 I've just got to get mine done, decided to pop it in stock. Edited November 26 by Olaf oops linky! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harper 554 Report post Posted November 27 (edited) 20 hours ago, Olaf said: From what I've read, the M42 crank is forged, the M44 is cast... if you want to head to 8k rpm I think the forged crank is the one... This is an interesting read on M47 cranks... there are variants. 90mm piston and you're on your way to more torque & 2.1 litres woohoo! http://m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=1921.15 I've just got to get mine done, decided to pop it in stock. Either crank can spin up to 8k happily, limiting factor is always the valve train according to the metric mechanic info. The perks of the M44 bottom end is a little more displacement and it has a larger oil pump which flows better at high rpm. But the late M42 head has a host of benefits over the M44 head so it makes sense to marry the two for an OE+ street motor I think and still keeps things simple. Unfortunately nothing is a drop in solution with the diesel stroker crank as far as I know. One way or another you end up having to deck the pistons, have custom rods made, or both in order to get the CR and the valve/piston gap correct. All that being said. The stock M42 is a lovely motor. I've taken the e36 for a few burns since getting it driving again. Not fast but super zingy and responsive, feels like a mini M engine. Edited November 27 by Harper 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3334 Report post Posted November 28 yes. diesel crank needs the nose machined up - shortened - and a keyway, I think. All the M42/M44 mods seem to require $$ machine costs, for moderate increases in power/torque. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harper 554 Report post Posted November 28 59 minutes ago, Olaf said: yes. diesel crank needs the nose machined up - shortened - and a keyway, I think. All the M42/M44 mods seem to require $$ machine costs, for moderate increases in power/torque. Yeah the $/HP is not worth it. I'm just after some itb noises more than anything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted November 29 Fuel pump and filter. 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dln 14 Report post Posted November 30 (edited) Front brake pads - TRW GDB1802's Contrary to popular belief, it's much easier to remove the entire caliper with the 18mm bolts in behind, rather than splitting the caliper with the 10mm hex that's looking at you. You also don't need to remove the 4 holding pins or the spring clip - the pads can be wriggled out and new ones in without much hassle. Also broke the brake wear sensor getting it out, so cut and twisted the wires and taped up out of the way. New tyres too - Bridgestone Potenza Sport 225/40/R18 NON runflat. Initial impression is MUCH better NVH than the runflat R050A's that came off. Edited November 30 by dln Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
balancerider 766 Report post Posted Saturday at 06:08 AM (edited) Replaced the original Varta 90aH AGM with a Century 95aH AGM. Was still starting ok but seemed a good time to swap. coding new battery with Bimmercode dead easy (although no 95aH option so left battery size as is) (sacrificed a fair bit of knuckle skin to the BMW gods, the battery compartment on the F31 is awkward to say the least) Edited Saturday at 10:53 PM by balancerider Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
