Quick Questions

[slybma 38]

My E30 has an intermittent start issue. It's happened 2 x in the last few weeks ( at the same geographical location oddly ) where it just won't turn over at all, like its dead flat. The first time it happened, I left it for an hour and it started up just fine. Tonight I just jump started it in gear as I didn't have time to wait around, and drove it for 20min home. Have just tried to start it ( after leaving it for 90mins ) and it won't turn over. All the interior electrics are working.

Tried jumping it and that didn't seem to work either?

sounds like your starter relay's getting tired, happened to my old E30 too

[Neal 543]

anyone got a fix for the sister in law?

the ladies took my M5 to the batch on the wknd. I don't know how but they f**ked up my DICE ipod link.

I have no idea how they did it.

Been workin sweet for years. the one time I let them loose in my car...

Took me ages to get it going again.

Apply hotfix 1.1 to sister in law , will fix ipod / iphone plug coordernation issue and random babble condition when around wife 1.0

However , hotfixed sister in law 1.1 isn't always compatable with wife 1.0 which often results in expensive upgrade to wife 2.0 followed by sister in law 2.0

You have been warned !

[M5V8 337]

Apply hotfix 1.1 to sister in law , will fix ipod / iphone plug coordernation issue and random babble condition when around wife 1.0

However , hotfixed sister in law 1.1 isn't always compatable with wife 1.0 which often results in expensive upgrade to wife 2.0 followed by sister in law 2.0

You have been warned !

(had a chat to the sis in law last night to see how it was possible. Apparently repeated button bashing due to not liking any of the playing tracks did the job. well done girls.)

Edited September 2, 2013 by M5V8

[UBH8N 0]

Planing on doing a oil change this weekend and am not sure on what oil to use in unpredictable nz weather, any recommendations?

Car is a 89 e30 with m20b25 stroker

[e30ftw 410]

Anyone know the secret to adjusting rear koni e30 shocks? They look like the below, From what I've read you need to remove the bumpstop (there is no bumpstop, just a white bushing with a cutout to slip it out) then compress the shock right in and you should feel it go into the adjustment. But it just spins and spins and I never feel anything.

Any ideas?

[Venatus 2]

I did some real rough welding on the underside of my car to patch up some little rust holes ~20mm in diameter. Theyre ugly and painted black, do i need to super underseal to hide them for the WOF or if it passes the "can you jam a screwdriver through it" test is it all good haha?

[_Matt_ 42]

if it's not structural and you haven't left holes in the car it should be fine.

[grantdavis28 8]

Hi guys, I have my mums 2010 118d that has been sitting in the garage with no fuel for 5 months,

is there anything I should do before turning it over?

Hope to hear back soon!

Thank you.

[hybrid 1043]

Anyone know the secret to adjusting rear koni e30 shocks? They look like the below, From what I've read you need to remove the bumpstop (there is no bumpstop, just a white bushing with a cutout to slip it out) then compress the shock right in and you should feel it go into the adjustment. But it just spins and spins and I never feel anything.

Any ideas?

At the top of the shock there is a small blade which you normally get a koni spinning top adjuster thing to twist and adjust the compression and rebound with.

[e30ftw 410]

At the top of the shock there is a small blade which you normally get a koni spinning top adjuster thing to twist and adjust the compression and rebound with.

Nah my fronts do, but the rears do not. They are like the above and according to Koni you must push them right in and it will click an adjuster gear to let you adjust by rotating once it is in the gear.They are adjustable they even say on the sticker.. Gave up on it.

Like the top ones here - I have 80-2641 rears

http://www.koni.com/car-racing/technology/adjustment/

Edited October 1, 2013 by e30ftw

[max 27]

Failed my warrant on yet another left front wheel bearing failure. This is the third one that's gone on me since I've owned the car (just over 2 years). All have been in the front left too. Been buying them new from MillAnd who say they are ex Germany. Anything else that could be causing it? Bad alignment??

[twisted 45]

E39 528i

I'm getting a Check Control message when the ignition is switched to 'on': "SLOW! Cat. Overheat" Message goes away as soon as car is running. Info on the net seems to point to either faulty MAF and/or post cat o2 sensors, or a faulty EGT sensor (Japan market model).

Does this seem right?

Also, how easy is a cat delete on the e39? What does one do with the post cat o2 sensors?

[*Glenn* 854]

Thats normal.. if it comes on while driving it becomes a problem. The warning only comes on while it is doing it's self check prior to starting

[jeffbebe 1559]

E39 528i

I'm getting a Check Control message when the ignition is switched to 'on': "SLOW! Cat. Overheat" Message goes away as soon as car is running. Info on the net seems to point to either faulty MAF and/or post cat o2 sensors, or a faulty EGT sensor (Japan market model).

Does this seem right?

Also, how easy is a cat delete on the e39? What does one do with the post cat o2 sensors?

Either use spacers for the o2 sensor like these, which a couple of members have tried with good results or recode the ECU to South African where cats were not applicable (not sure how easy it is to do the latter):

[yng_750 247]

possibly unrelated but my 750i had the catalyst temp warning come up every day at start up.

this was triggered by an cat failure producing alot of heat, it was controlled by a relay that was one use, clicked open and stayed there to keep triggering the code. is meant to be replaced but i just pulled it as the cats got removed.

that was an e32 so abit older school tech.

Relay has written on the side 12zyl (v12) 720'c. which is alot of heat under the car

Edited October 7, 2013 by jason H

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

possibly unrelated but my 750i had the catalyst temp warning come up every day at start up.

this was triggered by an cat failure producing alot of heat, it was controlled by a relay that was one use, clicked open and stayed there to keep triggering the code. is meant to be replaced but i just pulled it as the cats got removed.

that was an e32 so abit older school tech.

Relay has written on the side 12zyl (v12) 720'c. which is alot of heat under the car

what year was your E32 if you remember?

[hybrid 1043]

looks unnecessarily complicated

[twisted 45]

Thats normal.. if it comes on while driving it becomes a problem. The warning only comes on while it is doing it's self check prior to starting

Either use spacers for the o2 sensor like these, which a couple of members have tried with good results or recode the ECU to South African where cats were not applicable (not sure how easy it is to do the latter):

possibly unrelated but my 750i had the catalyst temp warning come up every day at start up.

this was triggered by an cat failure producing alot of heat, it was controlled by a relay that was one use, clicked open and stayed there to keep triggering the code. is meant to be replaced but i just pulled it as the cats got removed.

that was an e32 so abit older school tech.

Relay has written on the side 12zyl (v12) 720'c. which is alot of heat under the car

Thanks Team. Will keep an eye on it and only worry if it happens when driving. Intend to replace the exhaust eventually anyway and will most likely de-cat when i'm doing this.

[twisted 45]

Next question - how common is it for the coolant level sensors to go in these cars? OBC is giving a coolant level warning, however the coolant level is fine, and engine temp is rock solid at half way.

[lord_jagganath 421]

check your float on the sensor. My float disengaged from the sensor... maybe cleaning the contacts would be a good idea?

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Is there any difference in driveshaft length between E36 sedan & coupes? Just tried to install the new DS and discovered once bolted to the diff the guibo bolts don't even contact the input flange

[allan 295]

Hi Matt, depends according to BMW fans an April 94 M50 325 Coupe or Sedan the shaft is 1512 long but if a April 94 320 M52 or M50 the shaft is 1541 but check it for yourself. The kit you got seems to be coursing you some grief with missing bits and bobs.

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Hi Matt, depends according to BMW fans an April 94 M50 325 Coupe or Sedan the shaft is 1512 long but if a April 94 320 M52 or M50 the shaft is 1541 but check it for yourself. The kit you got seems to be coursing you some grief with missing bits and bobs.

20mm ish gap between guibo & flange.

FFS

IIRC the donor was a eary - mid 1993 325 coupe. Did have the VIN at one stage but the file seems to have been lost in the course of moving house.

Edited October 10, 2013 by Ahmedsinc

[allan 295]

Don't have a missing solid spacer or the wrong shaft for yuor model of engine????

Edited October 10, 2013 by tim 325

[BM WORLD 1283]

They can slide in length at the middle of the driveshaft , loosen the big nut ,