Kepes 231 Report post Posted December 9, 2015 When testing a thermostat on the stove in a pot of water, should an 80c thermostat start to open at 80, or earlier? And how far should it open? The thermostat in question is starting to open at 80c and opens to about 6mm at around 88-90c. Time for a new one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted December 9, 2015 When testing a thermostat on the stove in a pot of water, should an 80c thermostat start to open at 80, or earlier? And how far should it open? The thermostat in question is starting to open at 80c and opens to about 6mm at around 88-90c. Time for a new one? As I understand it, the thermostat opens once a temperature is reached. Temp will continue to rise for a short while, but will then drop back to the desired temperature. As such, yours is probably fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) Usually a failed thermostat sticks open, rather than closed, the symptom being car takes ages to warm up or never gets out of the blue. Seized open on left vs new and closed on right At 80deg my new one has just started opening but the old one is fully open already, it started opening about 50deg About a minute later the new one is fully open also So it's not just about when it opens, which should be the marked temperature, more about was it fully closed to begin with. Edited December 9, 2015 by Charlie F. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted December 10, 2015 Thank you both so much for your responses!Charlie that was exactly what I needed to see/hear. I thought I'd test the thermostat as I was replacing the waterpump but i'm fairly sure its fine and that the waterpump is the issue Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted December 10, 2015 Thank you both so much for your responses! Charlie that was exactly what I needed to see/hear. I thought I'd test the thermostat as I was replacing the waterpump but i'm fairly sure its fine and that the waterpump is the issue Water pumps are a great thing to replace, other causes of overheating would be Blown Head Gaskets, an airlock in the coolant system, and aux and/or primary fans being poked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted December 11, 2015 you can't heat the thermostats too quickly, or the temp climbs before the stat gets time to absorb the heat properly - Setting my gas cooktop on anything above about 1/2 can heat it too fast for good readings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted December 11, 2015 Tonight I was doing some wiring on my wifes e46, and I had to peel back the front passenger side carpet to access stuff, and it was wet under there? I'm 99% sure its water (cant think what else it could be) but dunno where it has come from? Door seals and windscreen seals are good. Any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted December 11, 2015 Tonight I was doing some wiring on my wifes e46, and I had to peel back the front passenger side carpet to access stuff, and it was wet under there? I'm 99% sure its water (cant think what else it could be) but dunno where it has come from? Door seals and windscreen seals are good. Any ideas? Leaking heater matrix? Any smells in the cabin? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 11, 2015 Weather / insulation membrane behind the door skin or the door skin clip seals are missing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted December 11, 2015 Leaking heater matrix? Any smells in the cabin? No smells in the cabin. The heater works, but the air con doesnt blow cold if that helps? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OP6 27 Report post Posted December 11, 2015 Glenn is right. Bet someone has been in there to replace a regulator or speaker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted December 11, 2015 None of the clips are loose, but I will pull it apart in the weekend to see if the plastic is still there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted December 20, 2015 (edited) Took off an old timing belt today in preparation for when the new one arrives. I had both the Cam and Crank at TDC, however after removing the tensioner the cam seems to have moved 1 - 2mm out, approximately half a tooth forward, while the crank has stayed at TDC. Would it be best to leave it till i install the new belt with accompanying tensioner, in hopes that tension will bring it back into alignment? What other ways are there to adjust the cam back to TDC before installing the new belt? Ie reinstall the old belt, adjust the cam back to TDC and then take it off and adjust the crank back to TDC without the belt? Got myself a bit confused here. I know that half a tooth out isn't damage worthy if it were to be driven, but I don't feel like risking it and I have plenty of time to fix it up. Cheers Edited December 20, 2015 by Terroth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted December 20, 2015 I assume you are talking about an M20. Very simple to set timing. Line the marks up as you fit the new belt, making sure there is no slack in the belt on the leading (non tensioner) side. The tensioner then takes up the slack on the trailing side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted December 20, 2015 Yeh sorry, M20B25. So it should just line up again when i install the new belt and tension it? Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted December 20, 2015 Yep. Cam mark may not, probably wont, line up perfectly but there will be an obvious "correct" position once the belt is on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted December 20, 2015 https://www.google.co.nz/search?newwindow=1&site=&source=hp&q=Repalce+timing+belt+M20&oq=Repalce+timing+belt+M20&gs_l=hp.3...4183.13860.0.14777.24.21.0.0.0.0.775.4554.4-7j1j1.9.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..17.7.3483.0.Pw41i9Iyyt4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted December 20, 2015 https://www.google.co.nz/search?newwindow=1&site=&source=hp&q=Repalce+timing+belt+M20&oq=Repalce+timing+belt+M20&gs_l=hp.3...4183.13860.0.14777.24.21.0.0.0.0.775.4554.4-7j1j1.9.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..17.7.3483.0.Pw41i9Iyyt4 Someone has clearly not discovered the lulz of www.lmgtfy.com 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) https://www.google.co.nz/search?newwindow=1&site=&source=hp&q=Repalce+timing+belt+M20&oq=Repalce+timing+belt+M20&gs_l=hp.3...4183.13860.0.14777.24.21.0.0.0.0.775.4554.4-7j1j1.9.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..17.7.3483.0.Pw41i9Iyyt4 Thanks for that Tim, i know more than enough about the process of replacing the belt, and have done it before, but the sarcasm is appreciated. I was more concerned about the movement in the cam and not the crank after i had removed the old belt and readjusting it back to the marks that i had it set to before i did so, and whether it was of concern or not, but obviously you didn't read my post. Cheers :) Edited December 21, 2015 by Terroth 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4015 Report post Posted December 21, 2015 https://www.google.co.nz/search?newwindow=1&site=&source=hp&q=Repalce+timing+belt+M20&oq=Repalce+timing+belt+M20&gs_l=hp.3...4183.13860.0.14777.24.21.0.0.0.0.775.4554.4-7j1j1.9.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..17.7.3483.0.Pw41i9Iyyt4 Would have had more impact if you'd spelled "replace" correctly... 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted December 22, 2015 Can legit plates.co.nz issued euro size plates be remade to have different coloured sides? Eg the ones I bought are blue, but I'd like them to be black. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 1, 2016 Hey folks, I recently just bought my first BMW and love it to pieces, it's an e39. However the boot lid tool holder is missing its 4 screws, does anyone know what the screws/rivets are called, what they look like or better yet where I can find replacements? Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted January 1, 2016 Hey folks, I recently just bought my first BMW and love it to pieces, it's an e39. However the boot lid tool holder is missing its 4 screws, does anyone know what the screws/rivets are called, what they look like or better yet where I can find replacements? Cheers. If this is your first, there is a good chance you've not heard of RealOEM - www.realoem.com. Enter the last 7 characters of the VIN of your E39 and browse through. It'll help find the part numbers. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 1, 2016 Thanks graham, will have a look when it stops raining. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted January 1, 2016 Can legit plates.co.nz issued euro size plates be remade to have different coloured sides? Eg the ones I bought are blue, but I'd like them to be black. Thanks! Hi Toby I have some black stickers here if they won't do it without charging you $499 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
