Jacko 2078 Report post Posted October 18, 2015 Cheers, interesting read. I wonder if turning the TC off by holding down the button is just making the diff appear more open. Some scientific testing is needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) So brake fluid flush and bleeding with a one man bleeding kit, happily done rear end first and all seemed well, missus came out to help with fronts... somthing I'd not been able to see from the drivers seat is that the bubbles just don't seem to stop. So either the nipple is letting some air in as the fluid goes past... or is master cylinder cooked. I'd always thought the brakes seemed a little soft, effective but soft. Old fluid was cloudy and very dark yellow. https://youtu.be/e3ICe_SgVxk On a probably related note, i noticed for the fronts that if i didn't take about 2 seconds to push on brake pedal and liftup over a second, it didn't seem to reload with fluid and only pumped a small amount through If it is the master cyclinder, is it best to rebuild or replace and/or upgrade? Edited October 21, 2015 by Charlie F. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Maybe someone has put a stop leak, along with other crap, into the cooling system ^^ This. Add head gasket sealer to the possible mix too. Seems the person who sold you the car might have been concealing a little more than just rust!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4015 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 So brake fluid flush and bleeding with a one man bleeding kit, happily done rear end first and all seemed well, missus came out to help with fronts... somthing I'd not been able to see from the drivers seat is that the bubbles just don't seem to stop. So either the nipple is letting some air in as the fluid goes past... or is master cylinder cooked. I'd always thought the brakes seemed a little soft, effective but soft. Old fluid was cloudy and very dark yellow. https://youtu.be/e3ICe_SgVxk On a probably related note, i noticed for the fronts that if i didn't take about 2 seconds to push on brake pedal and liftup over a second, it didn't seem to reload with fluid and only pumped a small amount through If it is the master cyclinder, is it best to rebuild or replace and/or upgrade? Smear thick, gunky grease around the nipples, that'll sort you out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Smear thick, gunky grease around the nipples, that'll sort you out. That may sort him out, but what should he do about the brakes? 8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted October 23, 2015 Can I get a straight answer on what oil to use in an m20b27? There seems to be lots of conflicting information out there. e.g. 20w50, 5w40, use vr1 racing oil, don't use vr1 racing oil... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) Can I get a straight answer on what oil to use in an m20b27? There seems to be lots of conflicting information out there. e.g. 20w50, 5w40, use vr1 racing oil, don't use vr1 racing oil... M20B27 as in a 525e or similar? Or a big bore 2.5? Different requirements, y'see. If it's an Eta engine, a good 10W40 should be more than suitable. Edited October 23, 2015 by gjm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted October 23, 2015 M20B27 as in a 525e or similar? Or a big bore 2.5? Different requirements, y'see. If it's an Eta engine, a good 10W40 should be more than suitable. Correct Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted October 23, 2015 M20B27 as in a 525e or similar? Or a big bore 2.5? Different requirements, y'see. If it's an Eta engine, a good 10W40 should be more than suitable. 525e, so an eta engine. Ok another oil suggestion. But I assume your suggestion is more reliable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted October 23, 2015 525e, so an eta engine. Ok another oil suggestion. But I assume your suggestion is more reliable. The M20 engines could benefit from a high zinc content in the oil, which will help reduce wear especially in the valve train. I use Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W40 in my Mercedes for this reason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted October 28, 2015 Getrag 260 slave cylinder. Any recommended brands and any to stay away from? Febi Bilstein Swag LuK Metelli FTE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted November 1, 2015 Getrag 260 slave cylinder. Any recommended brands and any to stay away from? Febi Bilstein Swag LuK Metelli FTE I'd probably go with the Febi. Doesn't mean the others are bad, only that I've not used them and never had problems with Febi parts. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted November 1, 2015 Re-registration If a car has been registered in NZ but the rego has lapsed, what is required for re-rego? A WoF and registration fee, or does it need a cert too? (Let's assume no mods.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3568 Report post Posted November 1, 2015 https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/resources/factsheets/09/docs/09-reregistration.pdf 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted November 1, 2015 https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/resources/factsheets/09/docs/09-reregistration.pdf "... safety inspection, certification, registration and licensing" This applies: "• has been registered in New Zealand before, and • hasn’t been structurally damaged or deteriorated, and • hasn’t been modified." That's no problem. But: "Take the vehicle to a TSD agent with proof that it has been previously registered in New Zealand and that you’re the person entitled to reregister the vehicle. The proof of previous registration can be old registration papers or documentation that verifies the vehicle’s VIN or chassis number, eg registration plates and a warrant of fitness checksheet, or registration plates and insurance policy documents that show the VIN or chassis number. The TSD agent will need to be satisfied that these documents demonstrate that the vehicle, when originally registered, was designed and constructed according to the requirements applying at that time. For example, vehicles manufactured before 1991 don’t need to meet as many vehicle standards." This is more difficult. The VIN is clearly stamped on the bulkhead, of course, but I have no reg plates, no existing checksheets or policy docs. I think it should be traceable via the VIN. I hope it will be... I'll check that first., Ta. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted November 1, 2015 Didn't think this warranted a new thread so... I'm keen to do an M20B20 to M20B25 swap for my E30 with my old man, however myself having never done an engine swap before, and having limited mechanical knowledge am wondering if its a job someone such as myself could just jump into? I'm aware apart from engine ancillaries its just a plug and play kind of job, roughly..? I've got access to all of my old mans tools, and his time during weekends, just no specialist tools like Clutch alignment or Engine Hoists. I've done a fair amount of research, am aware of the E30zone guide, but if there are any others that would be amazing as well. I also have "most of" the haynes manual, apart from sections 7 and 8 which are Transmission chapters. So how realistic is it? I have my partners car to drive during the entire time, as she is away on holiday for summer, so time is not an issue at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted November 5, 2015 Didn't think this warranted a new thread so... I'm keen to do an M20B20 to M20B25 swap for my E30 with my old man, however myself having never done an engine swap before, and having limited mechanical knowledge am wondering if its a job someone such as myself could just jump into? I'm aware apart from engine ancillaries its just a plug and play kind of job, roughly..? I've got access to all of my old mans tools, and his time during weekends, just no specialist tools like Clutch alignment or Engine Hoists. I've done a fair amount of research, am aware of the E30zone guide, but if there are any others that would be amazing as well. I also have "most of" the haynes manual, apart from sections 7 and 8 which are Transmission chapters. So how realistic is it? I have my partners car to drive during the entire time, as she is away on holiday for summer, so time is not an issue at all. having an engine hoist will be far safer and easier, I can't see any alternatives other than manhandling it in there which seems like a bad idea Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4015 Report post Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) If you can rig up a block and tackle to the ceiling of your workspace then you can get away without an engine hoist. Block and tackle is easy and inexpensive. Edited November 7, 2015 by M3AN Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted November 8, 2015 If you can rig up a block and tackle to the ceiling of your workspace then you can get away without an engine hoist. Block and tackle is easy and inexpensive. Unless you hook it onto a joist that holds up the lounge floor above, and pull it down 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted November 8, 2015 Unless you hook it onto a joist that holds up the lounge floor above, and pull it down Sounds like a voice of experience... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4015 Report post Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) ^ Wife - "why is there a hole in our lounge floor?" Allan - "Really? There's a hole in our lounge floor? Oh, by the way I sorted the engine on the BMW!" Edited November 8, 2015 by M3AN 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted November 8, 2015 Unless you hook it onto a joist that holds up the lounge floor above, and pull it down a floor joist will be a better bet than a ceiling joist.A beam that holds up a floor would be a better bet again Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted November 8, 2015 Nah - not real experience... we have one level on concrete..... maybe when I was younger 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) Anyone know who stocks Elf motor oil? I want to give it a try :~) Edited November 12, 2015 by Kepes 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted November 12, 2015 Oh yeh of course, forgot to mention ill definitely be getting an engine crane to pull it out, not many muscles on this frame so won't be manhandling that sh*t. What companies would you guys recommend for specific parts, IE clutches, gearbox bushings, gaskets etc? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
