gjm 3193 Report post Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) Do E30 Facelift bumpers fit on a PFL car? Similarly, would Facelift tail lights fit on a PFL car? Edited October 7, 2015 by gjm 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted October 7, 2015 Can't find this easily using google-fu. Does anyone know which battery i'll require for an E36 2-button key fob? Similar to the below except obviously OEM key. Currently at work and can't find a Philips small enough to pull it open, want to grab a battery on the way home. 2016 You'll need 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted October 7, 2015 Do E30 Facelift bumpers fit on a PFL car? Similarly, would Facelift tail lights fit on a PFL car? kinda...http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Convert_a_pre-facelift_to_a_facelift 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted October 7, 2015 kinda... http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Convert_a_pre-facelift_to_a_facelift Thanks. I was being lazy. Well, it was getting late! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted October 8, 2015 But no to F/L rear lights onto a pre. Totally different size. Even F/L bumpers on a pre look disproportionate due to different lamp sizing & different rear guard height 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3193 Report post Posted October 8, 2015 But no to F/L rear lights onto a pre. Totally different size. Even F/L bumpers on a pre look disproportionate due to different lamp sizing & different rear guard height Oh f....lip. Thanks. Forewarned is forearmed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 11, 2015 So m20b20/23/25. Looks like i can't replace the stem seals without removing the head bolts, and possibly the entire head, as they seem to be holding everything together. Is this correct? I think I'd rather suffer the smoke than piss around pulling the head off an engine I'm probably going to replace with a stroker... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1160 Report post Posted October 11, 2015 So m20b20/23/25. Looks like i can't replace the stem seals without removing the head bolts, and possibly the entire head, as they seem to be holding everything together. Is this correct? I think I'd rather suffer the smoke than piss around pulling the head off an engine I'm probably going to replace with a stroker... Can you run compressed air down the spark plug hole to do them on that motor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 394 Report post Posted October 11, 2015 How sure are you it's the stem seals? M20s vent the crank directly to the intake, sometimes it's just oily in the intake manifold and can leak down the intake boot too. Then you burn it all as you drive. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 11, 2015 Can you run compressed air down the spark plug hole to do them on that motor? Keeping the valves up isn't the problem, it's that the rocker.. er... clamp thingys that hold the rockers in... they seem to be held in place by the head bolts. SOHC head, rockers seem to be on there own shafts which run both sides of the cam, all held in place by one set of bolts https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRx4lH9GrTMsMrTqG0J1Y0e4_huEAv6ZWy-GabsANVXjdABCGNJUjI4_WOW Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 11, 2015 How sure are you it's the stem seals? M20s vent the crank directly to the intake, sometimes it's just oily in the intake manifold and can leak down the intake boot too. Then you burn it all as you drive. It only happens during hard driving when I'm on and off the throttle a lot, as i come back on the throttle she puffs a big cloud or if i sit and idle for a few minutes then floor it she smokes hard. This engine was allegedly rebuilt but they didn't touch a lot of areas, I'm wondering if stem seals is somewhere they 'missed' like the well buggered thermostat, dizzy rotor and cap, fuel filter... etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted October 11, 2015 Stem seals can be done in situ but is a PITA. Have not done myself in situ but many years ago I was going to attempt this on the E12 (M20) I confirmed what you have found. Talking to the local dealers at the time, they confirmed they had a service tool to do the job so I gave it to them to do. I have replaced them on other M20 engines since, but always when the head has been off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 11, 2015 Forgot to mention, other stem seal indictator was top of spark plugs being coated in oil more than bottoms, and shitloads of carbon build up on electrode Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted October 12, 2015 If you're going to be replacing the engine and smoke is pissing you off then get some stop smoke from super cheap. Not the best for your engine, but whatever. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2312 Report post Posted October 15, 2015 E46 330i If you hold down the ASC button, traction control goes out, shown with the triangle symbol in the middle of the dash, but if you continue to hold it a yellow e-brake light comes up Does any one know what that indicates? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1896 Report post Posted October 16, 2015 Not too sure if its the same but in the e39 if you hold the dsc button for 20 seconds it turns the dsc half on, meaning it will apply the brakes to prevent a skid but it doesnt cut the engine power. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) I really need to start a PLOG/Shitlist for my E30 efforts... I drained my Radiator to replace the thermostat, there was so much gunk at the bottom of the radiator no fluid came out after removing the plug, some prodding with a thing screw driver detected & dislodged a sandy feeling substance. Just sifting through the dreggs of the fluid... I need a second opinion, and suggestions. Is this sand? This looks a lot like sand... why the funk is there sand in the radiator? How does that happen? I feel like removing and giving a proper flush to the radiator might be a good piece of preventative maintenance. On a related note, now that the muck from the fuel filter has settled, it kinda looks like sand too, albeit finer sand... Edited October 17, 2015 by Charlie F. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4015 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 ^ is any of it magnetic? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 ^ is any of it magnetic? Kinda looks that way... yeah. It's not necessarily from the current motor which is an alleged recent rebuild. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4015 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Wow. I'd dump the oil and check that for metal as well. If the oil is okay then flush the coolant and check it again in 1,000 kms. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Maybe someone has put a stop leak, along with other crap, into the cooling system Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2078 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) Have I got this right ? (e87 130) No Push DTC button - Full stability control and traction control, "e diff" doing its thing. *yawn* Push DTC button, Full stability control, traction control wound down (??) Assuming it still controls diff through braking the spinning wheel? Hold DTC button, No stability control, no traction control, very open diff Edited October 17, 2015 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matth5 471 Report post Posted October 18, 2015 Have I got this right ? (e87 130) No Push DTC button - Full stability control and traction control, "e diff" doing its thing. *yawn* Push DTC button, Full stability control, traction control wound down (??) Assuming it still controls diff through braking the spinning wheel? Hold DTC button, No stability control, no traction control, very open diff E-Diff does not turn off. May be possible with coding. DTC mode (single DTC button push) reduces thresholds for both TC and stability control. If you have active steering, it will also kick in to do some steering corrections. This also can't be disabled. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2078 Report post Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) Hydraulic steering, Definitly turns the e diff off with the DTC button held down for a few seconds, seems like all that remains is ABS, behaves exactly like a very open diff Maybe the functionality varies between models? Edited October 18, 2015 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matth5 471 Report post Posted October 18, 2015 http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719012 Says it can't be turned off. It's not exactly like a limited slip diff I think, which is maybe why it felt like an open diff to you? You can still have active steering with hydraulic steering BTW. Active steering is an option where it changes the steering ratio according to your speed. My 335i has it, really cool feature actually Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
