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Everything posted by Allanw

  1. If it's not urgent, order one from xcar360.com
  2. Facelift Xenons are acceptable. Facelift Halogens were about as good as my '72 Beetle was! Never had any prefacelift to compare though.
  3. @DnR it was on an E39. They may or may not be the same??? No drawings, Sorry! I used a new strut mount as a template, knocked out the studs and fitted bolts through from the bottom. The plate I made was 10mm aluminium, threaded for the bolts, so that locked it all together, then the nuts were fitted as normal to bolt it into the car. I fitted a strut brace too, purely because the E39's give the strut towers a hammering and like to mushroom them: For the rears, I believe I ordered the "rough road" version top mounts, and just fitted a spacer onto the longer studs on them... The rear spacers are made of that plastic sheet stuff. In my Touran, I got polyurethane spacers from ebay. all hardware included. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=tema4x4 It had dropped 10mm after my VR6 + 4WD drivetrain conversion, and I wanted it a bit higher, so put claimed 20mm spacers in (they are less than 20mm thick to acheive the 20mm raise). The 4WD rear subframe already had to be spaced down 20mm, because of the the floor shape for the 6th and 7th seats, so it worked well with the geometry anyway. It's worked out about 10mm higher than my wifes standard one, as expected:
  4. The spacers are a factory option for rough road. May or may no be fitted, depending on market and options. Also note that the ECS spacers listed above say they lift the car 20mm.... they are NOT 20mm thick, becasue they mount inboard, approx half way between the wheel and the inner suspension mount. I made 10mm spacers, and I think they raised it 20mm, maybe a little more.
  5. Allanw

    Quick rant thread.

    Because people really want manuals? Apparently it's so they "feel" like an autobox. And as far as Autos being a bit dopey - they always will be - They can never know what I'm thinking - I don't even know half the time!
  6. When do we get pics of its new found glory?... not that we can see the clutch, but the bumper and visible things? Have you got a phone that doesn't run on steam yet? I still have it on my profile avatar!
  7. Good work! It makes a MASSIVE difference. Our manual 525i was REALLY easy to stall before they were done, but not after, and that mid range improvement is very obvious (maybe more so in a manual too) Regarding the 150kms though - at 115 kms, mine were so worn/hard, that the Vanos pistons dropped out under their own weight. Most M54's will have poked seals from much lower mileage/years. Yours have probably been poked for years already. The original BMW Orings were NOT the correct spec for the environment, and I'd be surprised if they weren't knackered after about 5 years, regardless of mileage. Always worth doing, from what I've seen.
  8. Wow... no fire at least... You've got a LOT longer out of that clutch than I ever thought possible. It'll feel WAY better when it's done though... that bite point is way too high! Maybe you drive like a Nana???? Not the 4000rpm clutch slipping while reversing from the gargage kind either
  9. Did you check Micks Garage Graham???
  10. Milland in NZ. FCP or ECS in the US. I often use Micks Garage for general servicing items (brakes, filters etc) There are quite a few euro places that ship from the UK, and the shipping os usually better than from the US.
  11. ^^^ My Cappuccino would go over 9K, similar 100 bhp PER LITRE, but turbocharged... and didn't have big end issues... ...maybe the M5 should have been a 3 cylinder 🤣 10 was just too many... Maybe I'm not overthinking this enough, and you need MORE cylinders! 4,999cc V10 (M5) divided by 657cc I3 (Cappuccino) is about 7.6, rounded up means 8 cappuccino engines for the same power: The M5 needs to be a 24 cylinder!
  12. GOOD jumper cables and a second, running, car There are a LOT of modules hidden in modern stuff! It doesn't run when the engine is off, but the electric auxilliary cabin heater in our VW Tourans draw 80 amps at full power... but on a winter morning, the cabin is hot, before the engine is up to temperature
  13. And the grilles are bigger than the windscreen?
  14. You could duct tape 8 of them together, and still be slower than an E60 M5.
  15. Brand new ones used to be pretty cheap on mafshop.de - I got one for about NZ$600 landed??? from memory and a few years back!
  16. Allanw


    I remeber you posting pics on here of some salt cured bacon many years ago... I've done it a few times since! Amazing, compared to the shitty bought stuff. I didn't even smoke it though... mostly becasue it got eaten before I had a chance!
  17. It is. 😉 Just buy it - it's super useful anyway. https://www.xcar360.com/bmw-scanner-1-4-0-car-diagnostic-interface-tool-code-reader.html US$19.99 shipped 🙂
  18. I think they'd want an asset, not a liability, for collateral.
  19. If these are like the late E39 ones, the switch isn't a switch, its a genuine temp sensor. The ECU reads the temp, and sends a pulse width modulated signal to the module - 12V may be the wrong thing to try 😉 The fans have 12v all the time, and the module adjusts the fans speed based on the signal. And they have been known to fail a bit 🙂
  20. Zebra Manukau, in case it's of use. I haven't seen it, just saw the listing: MANUKAU 07/02/19 BMW 735I 1997 E38 4 3500CC PETROL AUTOMATIC ELECTRIC ELECTRIC BLACK
  21. @Mikan Bummer... Nah... it was heating up WAY before the gauge told you it was... the gauge reads "normal" from 75 through to 110 or 115 - then it shoots up pretty quick when the engine reaches about 125 or 130 and the gong happens... the gauge is a lying waste of time - although @Young Thrash Driver has my old E39 with the software re-calibrated, so it's a bit more realistic Also, if the thermostat is dodgy, it may not have opened FAR enough - the flat plate on the back is supposed to block the return port on the rear, and force all the hot coolant into the radiator, and the return into the engine, instead of mixing the two while recirculating coolant in the block as it usually would at "normal" temperatures. The water pump losing drive to the impeller will do it too, as there isn't enough coolant movement. This is exactly why I changed ours to a mechanical thermostat and re-calibrated the gauge - yours would have been getting hot for a little while before you saw it, then suddenly the gauges and gong go off when it's too late 😞 At least you have a replacement option Maybe you should install a new supercharger while you're in there... the old one probably wasn't working anyway
  22. Micks Garage 20% off TODAY - Waitangi Day Use code WD20 https://www.micksgarage.com/
  23. My niece is getting her full license in a couple of months, and has a VW New Beetle, early 2000's. Her's is a 1.8 Turbo manual... but there are 2.slow ones too. They're a bit of fun, somewhat safe, but not really sporty.
  24. Mmmmmm... Shiney!
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