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Everything posted by Allanw

  1. Once I get myself proper sorted... there might be a factory manual E39 525i for sale We have a pair of VW Tourans, the "other" one for the Mrs.... ...and this one for me! about 2 years in the making: It's a 7 seat VW Touran, with a Golf R32 3.2 VR6 6 speed manual 4Motion 4WD drive train I have to make a special "THANK YOU" to Andrew, aja540i - without him, I'd never have finished this, or at least spent sh*t loads more money! He did some serious engineering work, carried parts up and down the country, got special jobs done I couldn't sort out my slef and really made the whole thing possible! Thanks Andrew
  2. I wish they'd hurry up with the next episode... ... otherwise I'm going to have to finish my OWN project!
  3. Pretty sure the fans are mostly independent of engine temps, more to do with radiator returns temps - once the ECU determines the return from the radiator is climbing too high, it cranks up the Fans. Certainly, the M54's with Map control thermostats do that.
  4. I went Beisan, no anti rattle kit, at about 120k. the seals were 100% rooted - the o-rings could be snapped by folding them. It was much smoother afterwards, and it's propensity to surge and be really easy to stall while parking disappeared. My wife and I would both regularly stall it backing out of the garage. There was a much improved feeling of low end torque, and smoothness. If it wasn't more torquey, then it was at least much more progressive, instead of a sudden increase at about 3000 or so.
  5. Well done Glenn, and good luck! There's probably a number of things you'll be glad to see the back of, and I'm sure a bunch of really good people you'll miss. Overall, I'm sure you'll feel awesome, once the initial shock wears off! I'm happy for you! Enjoy it!
  6. Actually, I found the thread about it: It's piss easy to do, but you need BMW SCANNER 1,4: Those top temps are highert than I thought actually! Highly recommended mod.
  7. I'm not disagreeing with the idea at all - I've done the same thing, as I said... just the details are different You can get the E46 OBC to tell the coolant temp, like you can with the E39 too. The temp gauge on them is a waste of time - it looks like a proper gauge, but it works like those stupid blue and red lights on new cars - not really any help at all! I seriously suggest modding the EEPROM to make it read more realistically.
  8. The electrical heater is to allow the engine to run cooler under load, controlled by the ECU. It runs at 97 on an M54 (due to the mechanical thermostat setting, M44TU are 105C), but the heater can heat the wax thermostat (to open it) to cool down the engine when more power is required, as low at the mid/high 80's. The idea is, that running it hotter means better economy, because more heat is used to make power, instead of being fed into the cooler engine. The main problem with them, is the element burns out, so it runs at 97C ALL the time, and can't cool itself down when required. It also doesn't warn the driver, but does log a code. If the car isn't scanned, nobody knows it's faulty. any cooling issue, and it's already hot. I think you'll find 82C makes it run rich and hungry as hell. There is no need for a bleed hole either, on a otherwise standard system. I fitted the Zionsville adapter to our M54, with a fixed 92C thermostat. It came with a bleed hole drilled in it, and the car took forever to warm up - also fuel consumption around town was about 20% more!!! I dumped it, and fitted one without a hole, and it's much better gets up to 90 really quick, and gets to 92 eventually, and stays there. I also reprogrammed the cluster EEPROM, so the gauge reads properly. Mine will move from straight up and down after about 105C, and peg hot at 115C. Standard, they don't move up until over 115C, and don't peg until something like 125 or 130C! WAAAAY to late!
  9. D'oh!
  10. You don't get 10km/L from an E61 M5 either.... ESPECIALLY with Andrew driving it
  11. It should sit directly above 4th, under 3rd. If it does, its in the right place.If it has increased resistance moving across to the reverse or 5th plane, there is nothing wrong with the detents. If all that is fine, and it leans to the right, it's been dicked with - It's common it the shifter parts or trans are wrong for the car - was it factory manual or dodgily converted?
  12. E39 HALOGEN low beams are complete crap! My '72 Beetle is better - the Xenons are OK: I have had both brand new in the same car. I replaced the original water pump preventively at about 130K... and the replacement only lasted about 40K... then the GMB I got from REPCO in an emergency only last about 3 weeks and is noisy now! It's had a suspension rebuild at about 120K, new ABS(DSC) module, all brakes at 165K, clutch very nearly due at 175K, pixels all done at 120K, rocker cover has a small crack now too. And I had to replace the 13+ year old battery, too! Shocking!
  13. Plan on buying a new (proper) clutch and maybe flywheel, before you transfer it over. Sorry.
  14. I found the RE003's quiet on the E39. But they're a fairly quiet car, I suppose. I don't find I get a lot of mileage out of them, but then until recently, most of our driving was on roads with no straights or flats. The school run has one long straight now, so I might get a little more I'm due two new tyres on the rear now I wish I'd rotated earlier, so I would feel happier about replacing all four when the fronts had worn a bit more.
  15. Anyone? Like a tyre shop maybe???
  16. You specifically want single mass??? I got a LUK dual mass kit with clutch (all in one box) from German ebay for just under NZ$1K including freight and customs, about a year or 9 months ago??? I haven't installed it on our E39 525i with M54B25 yet, but I can feel it's going to be required soon! There's not much pedal left!
  17. You didn't smack the ALLOY front hubs with a big hammer, did you??? They're known to crack or let go of the inserts, if you do! They're fun to access, though, aren't they!?!?!?!
  18. Bring it up on the weekend. I'll give you a hundy for it
  19. It IS the public health sector!
  20. Mrs W had a charity even to attend tonight... So I gave the E39 a birthday (It's not really a birthday, because we usually wash it twice a year ) - 5 minutes washing the car, 15 minutes washing the style 42's Almost looks like someone cares about it now. The clutch is going to be due VERY soon - It's starting to bite very high. All the parts are in the garage, but it's not a project I'm looking forward to.
  21. Go and get a decent brand of new ones.
  22. I'd be VERY surprised if that was DISA - it changes the intake path from short to long (sort of), and shouldn't give those issues at all. Mine was mechanically perfect - no play whatsoever - I actually suspect it was faulty from new - the internal diaphragm was poorly installed and leaked. That noise - I know it's hard to hear it on a video, but that either sounds like a genuine backfire, or a more serious issue. I'd scan it for missfire codes, then swap coil packs to see if it moves to another cylinder. New plugs, and make sure the plug recesses aren't full of oil.
  23. Either get an E36 rack, or a properly rebuilt E30 rack - they do crap themselves, and having them sleeved where they wear fixes them. Dads old E30 rack was knackered at about 100K kms. It was rebuilt with the "sleeving" or insert, or wahtever, and was still fine at 235K when he sold it.
  24. The M54 retards the cam timing like crazy at cold starts to dump heat into the cats - if the Vanos seals are stuffed (and they pretty much ALL are, unless replaced with aftermarket) it struggles to maintain the timing and also shift the timing to the required angle when you use the throttle. Our Vanos seals were so bad, the car was super easy to stall when cold (manual, obviously & only 115K on it back then), because it couldn't pull the cam timing back fast enough to make any torque. You NEED to check the DISA anyway - if it's rattly, it can lunch your engine if it falls apart.
  25. Just coz you might have been interested, even though Sedan (and it's way too late now anyway!): I put Dads E30 up for sale nearly 2 years ago. It went on Trademe for $8500 no reserve, and $9300 buy now (IIRC) - first caller was a complete muppet - thought it should be cheaper because he may have to spend money on such an old car! Second caller was a "suitable" owner -, older professional gent, collects cars, offered $8K right now, sight unseen, no questions - us in Whangarei, him in CHCH. Money went in that night, collected a month later. So certainly they are out there, but don't come up often. I think Dads would have been what you're looking for (if you want to keep it reasonably "grandpa spec"), and you may find just a touch more cash get's something really good, over something a bit average. None of them are very mint anymore, but there are some real stunners out there - I think they're going to appreciate more and more. A lot of E30's are just old shitters now - still OK cars, fun to drive etc, but the real original stunners are going to be the ones going up in value as real classics. Good luck with the search anyway!