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Everything posted by Olaf

  1. Olaf

    2003 E39 525i Touring $2,000 ONO

    Saw it yesterday, looks tidy in the flesh. Bag yourself a bargain!
  2. Olaf

    Bmw 116i jerking

    Plus, as you’ve “just bought it” you have statutory rights as to “goods of merchantable quality”. if it’s jerky, and unacceptable to you, it matters not that a scan reveals nothing. Get informed on your rights, and push it back on the dealer. You might need a lawyer, but better a pet crocodile than a pup, eh?
  3. Olaf

    Bmw 116i jerking

    I couldn’t resist. Your theme tune. more info please, folks keen to help.
  4. Olaf

    Cooked Motor Question

    Is it a Genuine Toyota - or even OEM gasket? Much as I appreciate my BMW, I’d not expect to find them above Toyota on *any* reliability ranking based on real data. I think, given your account of the delivery and his subsequent unavailability, you need to consider where your Bro raced it! 😎
  5. Olaf

    Cooked Motor Question

    I can also vouch for the “drive a very long way without coolant”. My better half was driving with our then very young son. Afternoon coming back from supermarket, car making funny noise, smells funny. Son making loadsanoise (it’s afternoon, as babies will). Goes to service station, they add oil. Child is going nuts by this stage, so (with my blessing - who’s going to consign the mother of their child to wait for an hour for breakdown service with a 3-6 month old baby?) drive it the 10-15 mins home. I get home, have dinner, around 7.30 have time to check things out. Take it for a drive, it’s running okay... 8 mins in I’m thinking “hang on, no fluid for the temp gauge, so it’s not rising?” Just as it started rattling. I shut her down, called the AA. diagnosis: drain tap busted off the radiator, dumped it’s coolant. That Nissan 1400cc all-alloy multi-valve engine had done a minimum of 30 mins driving over three sessions. It was towed to a workshop. next day, checked over, filled with water (no rad), oil and filter changed; started okay. Radiator repaired, coolant replaced, oil and filter again. Ran it for five more years before we sold it, brilliant car!
  6. Olaf

    "Reclinable" seats in a coupe

    Is your first post regarding a 2 door, or 4 door car?
  7. Olaf

    Grey Thunder - 1990 e30 316i

    I was kindly alerted of this by an old highschool mate. His Mum was about to sell, having had it since 1997. Would I be interested in an NZ-new 1990 316i manual? Turned out to be full poverty-spec, 103hp, 4 private owners, 257,000 kms, and reasonably tidy. Our offspring are approaching driving age, and I want them to learn in a simple manual gearbox car, with none of those fancy driving aids we associate with steering, these days. Helps that one can see every corner of the car, too. Sr E-Thirty Andy kindly agreed to come with for inspection, as e30 expert to help with my mid-range mech capability. We determined that it was an honest, reasonably tidy example, needing some TLC. It had only been doing around 250km per year for a number of years now, but had been garaged. It started (stone cold) willingly, first go. Serviced last week by Mike Page. It was sold through Shelly BMW when new, and when the last owner bought it new; I even found @Barryn's card in the service book from back in the day. A deal was struck, I did the ownership change, paid the cash, got the key stuck in the driver's door, Andy sorted that out, phoned insurance and paid, and set out for Wellington from Paraparaumu. I'm pretty taken by it, it's nice to be back in an e30. Plans: give it TLC to get it machanically sorted (clutch and associated bushes and seals), precautionary cambelt kit, general servicing and maintenance (leads, cap, rotor, fan clutch). In summer, check out what's underneath those front guards, and sort out bootlid keep it fairly stock for next three years until both of our scone-grabbers have their licenses then - quite possibly - make it into a well-sorted clone of Andy's "MY E30". Or at the very least, a 318iS. Hence "project" rather than showroom. Here she is in monochromatic glory:
  8. Olaf

    Grey Thunder - 1990 e30 316i

    Lock Cylinder Repair Well, that's been 'fun'. Today I tacked the lock cylinder repair. here's some fun pics, followed by a whole lot of reference pics and info. Make sure you get the right one for your car. And yes, it matters if you have central locking! In my case, drivers (right) door, a post 09/88 model with central locking, it was P/N 51219061344. I started with the new kit laid out. Here's the cylinder with all springs and tumblers in, ready for the key test.... hold your breath and: Voila! I found the barrel tumblers pretty easy, just be systematic and write everything down with a pen and paper, make a diagram. 5 tumblers on one side, 6 on the other. The bottom four (away from the key) are 'notched' if you have central locking. Grease (supplied) holds the springs and tumblers in place. From this point forward, some assembly is required. Won't bore you with that, it did just about drive me around the twist. I think I've got it right; tomorrow will tell. Interesting to see what broke on the old one. The part that holds the roller bearing in part revision 002 (original had a ball bearing) broke off: Now the reference material. Translation of the instruction sheet: MONTAGELEITUNG Vor dem zussammenbau Zuhaltungskanäle des Schleißzylinders mit beiligendem Fett füllen. Zuhaltung mit Zuhaltungsfedern entsprechend Codeliste oder vorliegendem schlüssel in den Zylinder einlegen. Schleißzylinder lt.Zeichnung zussammenbauen. HINWEIS Um die Montage zu erleichtern, Rolle einfetten und in N-Mitnehmer eisetzen. N-Mitnehmer in den Führungsring einführen. Aussparung in dem Zylinder beachten. Sannstift mit leichten Hammerschlägen einführen. Totpunktfeder einsetzen und spannen. becomes: ASSEMBLY LINE Before assembling, fill the tumbler tumbler channels with the enclosed grease. Insert guard locking with tumbler springs into the cylinder according to the code list or the present key. Assemble the wear cylinder according to the drawing. NOTE To facilitate installation, grease the roller and set in N-driver. Insert the N-driver into the guide ring. Note the recess in the cylinder. Insert pin with light hammer blows. Insert dead center spring and tension. Best Video I found on YouTube: EDIT: and also https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Door_Lock_Repairs And now a bunch of reference pics for the one that came out, prior to disassembly:
  9. Olaf

    My wee wunabout...

    great score, a 325Ti. nice one! Looking forward to reading of your audio exploits.
  10. Olaf

    Deposit on X3

    Hi Richard, and welcome. Recommended for all BMWs: a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) from a BMW Specialist or BMW Dealer. The standard offerings from AA or VTNZ etc just don't cut it, they don't know what to look for with these vehicles. As to the changes, I think the biggest one was 6speed trans from 5 speed... and the 'n' series motors over the early M54-powered units. here's some links that should be fun, though you'll need to consider they're from differing markets. Hope that helps. https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/bmw-x3-e83-update-2518/ https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x3-e83-forum/27007-changes-face-lift-x3-pre-sep-2006-a.html
  11. Olaf

    E32 750i parts at Pickapart

    @eliongater Bronzit e28 525! for parts!
  12. Olaf

    Grey Thunder - 1990 e30 316i

    Busy few days. She's now in for the rear subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings, rear ARB install. Here's a rather unflattering image of her up on the rack at Auto38 with her arse-end out, @qube e30 on the rack. sounds positively medieval (above) ARB Prep My previous paintjob on the rear ARB hadn't held up so well. I guess lack of patience in the prep may have had something to do with it; the Rustoleum all-in-one wasn't sticking everywhere. Ahead of Monday's install work, I stripped it back yesterday afternoon with the flap disk on grinder, and sanded with random orbital (both 120 grit). I used a tack-rag (with turps), then gave it a coat of etch primer and waited an hour, before two coats of Rustoluem 50 mins apart (re-coat within 1 hour, or after 48hrs). I touched up the other end of the rear ARB this morning with Rustoleum (above) I also stripped back 20mm front ARB to bare metal with the flap disk, and gave it a coat of rust converter. There's a little minor pitting around the rubber bushing mounts, so I was being cautious. CRC aren't very clear on how long one should wait before painting; I found 'leave overnight' in one of their videos. So I did just that. This morning it's all about "waiting for paint to dry"; I've etch-primed the front bar, ahead of painting it with Rustoleum. an ARB, in etch, this morning (above) And here's the usual suspects... (below) This arvo I will be rebuilding the door lock (lock cylinder repair kit). Woohoo!
  13. well... yesterday, I figured it would need rubber to pass it's forthcoming WoF... so I went to Bridgestone Torrens Tce. Rather than cheap out - despite likelihood of selling it soon - I went for Bridgestone RE-003s. Stock size is 205/50R16. Ahhh, better.
  14. Over the past few days I've: charged the battery on my CTEK MXS5.0 charger with the 'recondition' cycle swept the leaves off it, moved it across the road, and washed it Charged the battery again Called the AA, full diagnosis (Alternator, Starter good, no drain issues), revealed battery borked. Had the battery replaced under warranty at 27 months old, thanks AA Battery Service! Replaced right front corner indicator - some a-hole had given the car a parking nudge and broken it, no note left, no apology. Put air in tyres, took it for an hour's drive to get the light dusting of surface rust off the rotors took it for a WoF - it flew through. 6mm of tread on the tyres all round - Directionals on the rear axle, Asymetrics on the front. Then I stopped off at Jon's workshop, and she didn't start when I went to leave! She's turning over super-fast with the new batty, too. Jon listened to the injectors, heard the pintle click once. I did a quick bit of research, found the FI relay and removed it. We inspected the internals, looks pristine. Then she started. I'm ordering a new FI relay to install before she goes for sale. I'd previously replaced crank sensor, cam position sensor, leads, plugs, coil, rotor, cap, IACV... all the things that can cause trouble with the Volvo 850. Watch this space, she'll be up for sale soon. Many thanks to @Jon for helping diagnose!
  15. Olaf

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    Got some details please, Andrew? Would this unit be suitable for my '04 545i? TIA.
  16. Olaf

    E38 735i One lady Owner project

    indeed, very pleased to hear you're okay, Hans. Great to see your e38 project moving forward again.
  17. Olaf

    New member intro E92 M3

    Welcome, Mathew. Nice ride! Good idea re the rod bearings as preventative maintenance. Be worth your while subscribing to the Auckland room - there's plenty of events on, regular cars and coffee meets etc.
  18. Olaf

    DME Damage

    if that's the case, I wonder if there's an equivalent device - same package - with higher voltage rating to replace them with?
  19. Olaf

    Besian vanos kit

    I've a Beisan M54B25 VANOS kit [Double Vanos Seals Repair Kit (6-cyl) Item# BS001], in my parts stash, Rob. If you can canibalise that to meet your needs, and replace parts later, happy to help.
  20. Mick's Garage does flat-rate shipping via DHL. It's quick and efficient.
  21. But are they as good as Supercats? 9000 Taxi & Uber Drivers can't be wrong? 😎 😂
  22. Olaf

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    I'm picking some traction issues! 😁
  23. Olaf

    2003 E39 525i Touring $2,000 ONO

    @eliongater - ideal occasional parts hauler and necessary A-framer for Landy. You know it makes sense!
  24. Olaf

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    Fixed that for ya 😉👌😂
  25. Olaf

    Grey Thunder - 1990 e30 316i

    Update. I've washed and waxed her, and been driving her. Whipped this photo out at sunset a few days back. I still haven't done my lock-barrel replacement; xmas family committments and grass in my backyard approaching 'elephant' status, have taken my focus, along with recommissioning my BBQ. Black Circles and Rear End The tyres are coming right, mould-release agents wearing away with some use in the wet; loads more grip than the previous 8-10 year old tyres. No surprises there. The disturbing things are: little 195s being a little bulgy on 5J5 steelies, natural lateral movement of car on rim with sidewall movement. the whole rear end being a bit squirrely with knackered diff bush, and old crusty rear subframe mounts, trailing arm bushes, and no ARB! the extra grip from fresh, modern rubber, fully reveals how 'off' the rear end currently is. ...though as you'd expect, "I have a plan" for the rear. Rear ARB (13.5mm) with new ARB bushes (BMW), rear subframe mounts (Meyle HD), trailing arm bushes (Lemforder) will go in this week. 14.5mm ARB is preferred (iS spec), but I just don't have the spare bread. My Koni Yellows (40k kms old) have arrived, so I need to do a little cosmetic remediation on those. I have Meyle HD rear shock mounts (3003359102/HD) to match them. They can go in soon with the existing springs, until I make the springing decision. This should tighten things up. Wheels Then there's wheels. I need to get the 14" basket weave/cross spoke/style 5 wheels from Napier, so I can give them a cosmetic refresh, and get them onto the car with the new tyres. 6J5 rims should hold those sidewalls more firmly! I've ordered a BBS spanner for the centre caps, and picked up some NOS puzzle nuts to help keep them secured to the car. Now I need to think about how far I go with wheel refinishing. The cursory "plastidip'; the home refinish with JB Weld and Aerosol; or the Wheel Magician or Wheel Specialist full refinish? And then there's colour. I fancy bubblegum (like you see in the carwash)... satin black or granitsilber is more likely. I like nogarosilber though I fear not contrasty enough with lachsilber. What are your thoughts? Sie sind verrückt nusse! Or at least bolts. Shifter Yes, there's a silent 'f' in there! I'd not bought enough of the parts to properly sort the shifter. My scottish heritage came to the fore; I bought a shifter bearing (Rein), though missed out other parts... then picked up Garagistic Delrin bushes for the front of the shift rod, and a Poly bush for the rear. Then I read more about the job on e30-zone, and talked to a mate about the short-shifter options. I pondered, puzzled, and prevaricated. Yesterday evening I sat down old-school style with printed material, pens and a couple of highlighters, and figured out what I was doing. In short, a new Z3 1.9 shift lever, and some more of the wear items sorted. (yellow-green = already have, pink = ordered, red=not bothering). Olaf's shifter parts diagram, yesterday. Front End Nothing like sorting out your rear end, to reveal shortcomings of the front end! I've sourced a 20mm front ARB, to go with the new bushes (Rein) and mounting hardware (BMW), and endlinks (Meyle HD). My Koni Yellows (8641-1210 Sport) - 318iS spec - arrived recently (used). I've ordered a bunch of parts to facilitate a build of new struts... bump stops (Rein), Strut bearings (Sachs), nuts, dust washers, coil spring shims... I already had one new SKF wheel bearing and a pair of nuts, dust shields and caps, and have ordered another SKF bearing. Shortly, I'll have everything I need to build the new front struts, except for: Springs (I need to decide on springs). H&R Sport Springs looking likely. A little lower, a little stiffer. 51mm Strut Housings. Yes, I need a pair of 51mm housings. Help! I'm basically going to strip and repaint whatever I get, don't care about the strut inserts themselves, bearings, or brake rotors. As long as the housings are sound. So having done a bunch of shopping, I need to paint that newly acquired front ARB, with my favoured flap-disk, rust kill, etch prime, and gloss black Rustoleum paint; do the door lock barrel repair, and get the rear end sorted. More updates as they come to hand. Thanks for reading. And: please, point me in the direction of 51mm front strut housings! Olaf