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What'd you do to your BMW today?

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11 hours ago, Allanw said:

You could duct tape 8 of them together, and burn them!

FTFY!

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Turned a pheasant into an amazing golden feathered firework on Old Taupo Road. Poooompaaah! :( 

Also.. Old Taupo Road  :D:D

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Mum had a Pukeko hanging out the front of her BA Falcon for many many months, was quite morbid lol.

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:yesterday:

I filled/topped up the AT fluid in the 328... some (much?) had drained out when I disconnected the cooler to replace the radiator some time back and it was slipping and really didn't enjoy the kickdown.

PRO TIP: Make sure the car is running when you undo the filler plug!

I knew the fluid temp needed to be 35 - 50 *C and the car running when filling but thought I'd poke the transfer tube in before I stared it up. No David, no. At rest most of the fluid drains back into the sump and submerges the filler tube... ergo, if you undo the bung with the car off then AT fluid will pour out. Messy. Ultimately of little concern, just meant I had to pump more clean stuff in (that doesn't hurt) and had to spend a little more time cleaning up.

PRO TIP #2: exhausts get really hot really quickly, filler bung is only inches away from exhaust. Avoid contact with hot exhaust at all costs.

Good news - my amazing Jatco is now harnessing all the ponies my venerable M52 is throwing at it.

 

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So now you don't have to do a Fred Flintsone any more.

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Exactly @allan! I was getting sick of the blisters from all the uphill work... 😕

 

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Has the jatco jerk been fixed somewhat with the new fluid?

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4 minutes ago, qube said:

Has the jatco jerk been fixed somewhat with the new fluid?

The one in the trusty 328 seems to be 'pre-jerk', I've not had problems with jerky cold starts or gear changes although I understand that's inevitable... the "top-up" (4l - but that includes the ~1.5 litres that I spilled out the filler hole at the beginning) did however completely eliminate the slip, even when cold so well worth the effort.

🐎

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Replaced the evap purge valve on the 530i.

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Did the fuel filter on the x5 at lunch on Friday, nice easy job. Then drove to tauranga and back

 

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Thermostat replaced.  Old one appeared OK even if the seal was stuffed.  Not sure if there will be an improvement but hopefully the code will clear.

Last 3 spark plugs replaced since ECS shipped 7 correct and 3 random spark plugs.

Vanos solenoid o-rings replaced, mongrel job.  Snapped one of the vanos solenoid screws putting it back in, that was an oh sh*t moment, as they mount upside down with very little space to get at them.  Purchased all sorts of things from AES to get the screw out, in the end a 2mm left hand drill bit was the winner with the drill on a wacky angle threatening to snap the bit.  Getting that screw out was the biggest relief I've had in the last few years.

Just need to put the plenums back on, fill it up with coolant and bleed then back on the road.  

Please no more dumb worn out sh*t Mr M5, baby 2 is due very soon!

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Got sick of the slow return on my E36  coupe driver's seatbelt. Tried to find a replacement - it's BMW  supplied only: so I googled a fix. Simple - wash the seatbelt in laundry detergent (in a bucket on the seat) and let dry. It removes all the accumulated human remains that prevent the belt from flexing (Yuck!)

It nearly worked, so I went further and removed the rear trim panel, cleaned the guide bar for the the belt (also yucky). Then after re-gluing the trim attachment to the side panel (It's only 22 year old glue, really!),  re-gluing the vinyl around the inside of the belt aperture (all to make the gap in the trim bigger)  it WORKED. I now have a belt that retracts at the speed of a frightened rabbit.

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On 2/19/2019 at 8:07 PM, Young Thrash Driver said:

I hear Prius' get pretty good fuel economy.

 

On 2/20/2019 at 5:21 AM, Allanw said:

You could duct tape 8 of them together, and still be slower than an E60 M5.

Gold.  Absolute gold! 

Now, a box of duct tape, call 8 Ubers, and let the magic begin! 

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Plenums back on, and everything back together.  Fired up with all sorts of codes until I realised I had left the idle control return hose off (oops).  VANOS bled.  No apparent coolant or oil leaks, phew.

All codes cleared now and I think the car is running warmer.  Time will tell what impact it (the thermostat) has.

Next will be a battery I think as it always has a charge fault after being off for an extended period.

Seriously contemplating a set of BC adjustable suspension, must resist...

Edited by GorGasm
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Fuel consumption is down nearly 20% since replacing the thermostat, awesome.

@$#%@# it has been like that for the last 2 years.  Strange that a shop didn't comment on the code in the ECU...

 

 

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A little of rust brewing under the boot seal that i treated and painted on the M5.

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The subi got a whole heap of bodywork repairs done while the M5 watched.

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Took the car to Pukie, gave the new rotors a good work out. 😁

Purple rack felt great

You gotta love driver trainings days.

Edited by sweetm3
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Wanted to go out to see the BMW Race Driver Series at Hampton Downs, but soon as I left the drive the clutch pedal started feeling a bit spongy.

Having see a couple of warning spots on the garage floor I turned round and just about made it home. Empty fluid reservoir and lots of fluid dripping off bell housing, bugger.

Too pissed off to sort it now, so put new pads in front brakes on the 330d instead.

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3 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

Wanted to go out to see the BMW Race Driver Series at Hampton Downs, but soon as I left the drive the clutch pedal started feeling a bit spongy.

Having see a couple of warning spots on the garage floor I turned round and just about made it home. Empty fluid reservoir and lots of fluid dripping off bell housing, bugger.

Good save, Jon!

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Today’s adventure with the e46.  Went to put fuel into it, as you do...  do you think I could release the gas cap?  No f#*king way!  It was ‘in’, ratcheting to clockwise.  But could not get it to budge a anticlockwise.  Even using two hands and a wide grip (as you do). Gave up and drove home.

Later this afternoon, I gathered up a rag, my trick Knipex Cobra sliding jaw multigrips, penetrating oil, screwdrivers, and parts.

I sprayed some penetrating oil around the gas cap, and left it to soak.  It was still stuck.

1.  Replaced the hood struts.  They were getting a bit dubious on cold days.  Re-seated some of the seals under the hood.

2.  Went to check the state of the fuel cap.  It came open easily!  Inspecting the seal, it’s compressed, hardened, and cracked.  Time for a new gas cap, or at least a sealif it’s available separately.  I cleaned around the flange of the fuel filler, and cleaned the cap sealing surfaces thoroughly.

here’s a pic for reference

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A world-weary e46 fuel cap, this afternoon.

 

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Traced the drip on my driveway from the 328 to the aircon compressor... ?!? Didn't realise that contained fluid... my aircon doesn't work and I'm never going to bother with it so how much fluid is in the compressor? I've got to decide whether to just let it drip dry (empty) or remove it entirely.

The fluid (which is a lubricant of some description) is coming from a join in the compressor casing. I know it must be coming from there because I dumped two cans of degreaser into the area yesterday and got it spotless then washed it all down with a pressure hose. Started the car today up on stands once it was all dry (and I'd wiped all the surfaces) and 10 mins later a drip formed under the compressor (with nothing coming from anywhere near the engine). 

Was quite surprised.

 

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Is the compressor still being turned by the ancillary drive belt? No expert on air con but I would take it there is lubrication required within the compressor. If it does drip dry, will it eventually seize and screw the belt? 

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