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aaaand another one.. It needed a super good clean inside and out. The interior had the typical sagging headlining and broken glovebox missing parcel tray etc. Has been given a thorough clean now and reupholstered the headlining in nice brand new black fabric, already had the black sunvisors as it is motorsport, bought a new glovebox lid and parcel tray from pickapart and now looking much better than before. Any tips on how to restore the faded parcel tray without covering it in fabric? maybe a spray dye or something? Drivers seat needs to be stitched up and picked up an armrest centre console to install, also the stereo is held on by black electrical tape.. will need to fix that but AUX works and sounds decent! Will need to be tinted but otherwise pretty good interior wise. Only issue is windows and sunroof just suddenly refuses to work and so I need to wait a few minutes then it will work again randomly. Strange! I think it had an aftermarket alarm at some point as it makes a weird beeping noise but not sure. Exterior.. oh man, typical red paint. Hellrot, literally rotting away clearcoat on almost every panel. Overall needs some love. Front nose panel and bumper, passenger guard is the worst. few dings here and there but its ok for now. Mechanically, again typical M44, does leak a couple drops of engine oil but doesnt seem too excessive. Idles nicely and revs freely, drives quite good also. The 4 speed auto is the biggest let down, manual box would be ideal but it is what it is. Anyway, some photos!

I think the more important question is if you are aware they are low quality and have doubts about whether they would get a cert, why the hell would you want to drive around on them?

Watched this last night, i feel its somewhat related... [HOONIGAN] DT 055: $350 BMW E36 Gets eBay Coilovers

A quick (it's cold!) and not-very-good pic to show what I'm working with. The driver side wiper arm is bent - looks like someone had the bonnet up, pulled the arm back from the windscreen (perhaps to change the blade) and the bonnet closed on it.

I have been contemplating the M50b25TU vs the M52b25. The m50 has 141 Kw at 5900 and 245 Nm at 4200. The M52b25 has 125 kw at 5500 and 245 Nm at 3950. Obvious difference is the lower Kw number but the torque peak comes in at 350 rpm lower. What I cant see is the torque area under the curve which I suspect is greater for the M52. Looking at the Cam specs they are similar: M50B25tu 228º 9.0 4º 44º 228º 9.0 35º 13º M52B25 228º 9.0 4º 44º 228º 9.0 39º 9º The compression ratio of the engines is 10.5 to 1 and both have 84mm bore and 75mm stroke engines. The M50 has a cast iron block and the M52 alloy. The exhaut manifolds on M52's appear to flow better on an M50 but I am unsure what the restrictions past this are, CAT's? I am also unsure of head flow and valve sizes but I read somewhere that again they are similar. Lastly is the intake and this is a hoary old chestnut; M50 with big runners and M52 with small runners for better torque. The M50BTU has 140mm rods so less side thrust. So where is the extra 16kw hiding? is it purely the inlet manifold, rods or is it in the DME, do I just have to let it rev higher, after all 5500 for a Modern DOHC engine is pretty low, pushrod territory. I am asking as I am considering an m52b25 E36 for 2k Cup and if there is some cheap free HP hiding somewhere I would like it.

Immediately around the corner from my place, still there. The tickets are getting removed from the windscreen each week... odd. As soon as that stops I'll claim salvage!

High octane was available years before in Europe. The mid 80's Audi Quattro we had was 10.5 CR (factory) & needed more than our 95 to run properly. It was K jet so with no electronics to compensate for lower octane. Yes 95 will be fine, your "Super" would be better. Would be interesting for you do a milage/consumption test of both fuels & note the difference as to if it is viable or not

Its supposed to be a cheap car but we both know its too easy to spend spend spend on these cars especially when parts are plentiful. Ugh. What have i done... again..

I've had them with and without, it may suppress certain frequencies that you will never notice.

lol, you're insatiable, hope you got it for a steal! 2 x red Ti's at Zebra Onehunga if you need parts. They were still pretty complete a couple of weeks ago.

I drove to Aucklandto get a manual conversion and m42 that I don't need because all my e36s are manual So the only logical thing to do was commit to buy another e36, so I suppose I'll go get that tomorrow I keep saying I don't like e36s because they fall apart inside and now I have 4 again

Beautiful colour!

they use the same head etc . only real difference is in the manifolds and tunning of the ecu if you fit a m52b25 in place of a m50b25tu and hook up all the m50 stuff , it will make the some power and torque as the m50 did

335i's are a real bargain now, apart from the bumper this looks pretty tidy, not a common interior combo but looks very nice. Being an early car it will have the bigger bolted diff so nice and easy to install an LSD. No I Drive is almost a bonus. I would check to see if it has an oil cooler as the odd 2006 model didnt.

E9 bodied E39 M5. So much want.

Atlantis is amazing in person. One day.

Thought it stood for Bye My Woman

Bought a May 2001 318Ci...

Replaced the front bumper

Go watch the episode. They will prove your theory completely wrong, as all the dents they put in the system were maybe 200mm from the heads. And like said previously, even they ruled out a lot of the changes due to time of day, oil and water temp in the motor etc. etc. Think you need to go do some more research before you keep trolling. Watch that episode then tell everyone here (especially the ones that know that sh*t) that they're wrong. Then give me all the all the calculations to explain how the cross sectional area of the pipe has been reduced. Plus all the gas flow cals that say it is going to be severely restricted.

I pulled apart the radar receiver on my (ancient) Escort Passport SR7 (permanent install) the other day, cleaned all the contacts, etc etc, put it back together, but was not optimistic that I had addressed the continual "self calibration error" on startup... Today I drove it including multiple starts and the device performed without hitch - which is a first since owning the car.. Optimism grows...

The E30 wasn't stopping very well, so it was time for a brake overhaul. New pads, rotors, rebuilt calipers, braided brake lines, and brand new master cylinder originally fitted to the bigger 7 series of the same era. Oh, and new tyres, Bridgestone RE003. Car stops much better, success! Off for a WoF on Tuesday. Unpainted one is from the E32, noticeably beefier

Just putting this out there if you're worried about having to dent pipes for clearance issues. Engine Masters on YouTube did an episode where they tested back to back dyno runs while denting the header tubing on a V8. They started with something like 550 - 600hp on the motor, then did some modifications to the pipes at random, resulting in denting or "crushing" the tubing. At the end of it, they lost 5 maybe 6hp with the damage they did - which they also said could've been put down to the time of day, different water/oil temps etc. etc. So the conclusion is that, if you have to crush a pipe somewhat to make it fit/clear, the difference in output is negligible. It's actually kind of interesting to watch because it almost destroys the whole theory around mandrel bent exhausts vs crush bent.