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Cheers for the bump @KwS. I got the car back last Monday. I thought I'd drive it for a week before calling it resolved. TLDR: It was the HPFP, not Injectors. $2300 plus labour and the job is done and the car is going like a champion. To continue from my last post. The dealership - INDUSTRY MOTORS TAKANINI - accepted that I send the car to Winger BMW in wellington. They told me I had to Organise my own transport and that they would pay for it. I got back to them the same day with the phone number and the quote for $300. It took them 4 days to pay for the towing, but we got there eventually. I still had to fight the dealer. I rang Winger BMW to get their version of the story, and they told me that Industry motors had just asked for a quote for six injectors. I rang the dealer and told him that I had clearly asked for the car to be re-diagnosed. He didn't want that to happen because "Every workshop gets a different result. BMW Dealerships staff are just parts fitters who go by what the computer tells them and send things away to specialists to have any work done". He went on to say that he had worked at a BMW Dealership in Auckland for a number of years. Well, what does that say about him then.. ? He was clearly just scared that it was going to cost him more money. It ended up costing him less so that's good. We had a reasonable argument about it on the phone but I didn't budge and in the end, he agreed. The car went on Thursday, I had it back Friday afternoon. Incredible service and communication from Winger BMW. Was really impressed. As for Industry Motors, what a bunch of Slimeballs. I accept that my workshop got it wrong with the codes, but that doesn't excuse the conduct of Industry motors throughout the time that we thought it was the injectors. They've redeemed themselves a tiny bit by finally fronting up, but not before I had to drag them through the tribunal to get it. Steer clear as much as you can. I have not received an apology from them, or any form of follow up after I got the car back. Thank you to everyone who helped me along the way. I'll be able to attend some club meets now!

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1826901093.htm?rsqid=ba0e8f69016f4e528eabc43afd2ee155 Is this for real?

Hey so i thought I'd share my latest retrofit project. Couple of my mates have f8X m cars after seeing the seats i wondered if they fit the e92. I couldn't find any info or even pictures on google. After acquiring some from a damaged f80 i got to work trying to fit them. At first i was pleased to find they bolted directly in. I swapped the connectors from f80-e92. With only 5 wires(power,canbus,lighting). It was easy to swap. The car did not like the f80 seat module at all and quickly rejected it. Because of the can protocol between the chassis. And with the canbus connection removed the wake up signal was no longer being conveyed and after 10sec the seat shut down. Luckily the passenger seat was simply a high current switch. All worked as it should except the heated seats. Using the e92 seat module i use it to simply work the heated seats instead of all other seat functions it used too. After playing around it was looking as though it would not be possible aside from a can emulator that would relay the wake up signal. However this isn't easy. I was running out of ideas. I brought a very cheap pair of seats from a x1 at first for parts but then noticed it used the same style of connectors as the f80 but the car was only a 2010. Part of a total fluke i tested the module out and to my surprise it worked. It was enough to makes the seat stay awake however no heated seats because the x1 seats weren't heated. After that i was stoked and immediately sourced the heated version of the same module which worked perfectly. Only last remaining problem is because they were from a 4 door the seats do not release forward which is a problem in a 2 door so ill order the parts and try convert them?

pulled the engine out of an e34 to start my m50b30 stroker turbo build :). Going into the touring behind.

Yup, people keep trotting out the same stories - all UK cars are rusty because of salt, all Singapore have electrical issues, all Japanese have been stuck in traffic all their life, etc. etc. Treat every car on it's merits, check for known issues, every car / owner / history is different. Take the car for how it actually is, not how all the sooth sayers on the Internets suggest it will be. As for NZ New being a bonus hmm, not so sure on that one.

The original registration paperwork for it shows this was first registered as a BMW. The guy mentioned at the time that NZTA had no listing for Alpina and didn't recognise them. I'm positive the ID plate in the engine bay states it's an Alpina and gives the build number, will confirm when I'm home though.

Hi All, I have two cars (an E46 race car and an E30 road car) that I am wanting to get painted in the next few months. Both cars will be stripped down (E46 is just a shell and E30 will have all lights, trim, bumpers, glass, interior etc... removed) and both cars will be getting a complete colour change and have very straight bodys. The plan at this stage is to paint the E46 Alpine White 2 and the E30 Lime Rock Grey. I'm looking for recommendations and rough costs for car painters in the Auckland region - Happy to do some of the prep work my self to save costs but I understand some body shops don't like this. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys I am new on this forum, and a new owner of the beast aka e60 M5. Just wanting to seek some advice regarding its exhaust. The stock exhaust sounds great but i want to make it sound a bit more louder and exotic. What can I do? Thanks in advance

Hey, I think I need a new coolant level sensor - the computer tells me the coolant is low and it is not low. Does anyone know the product code for this - I've got a 1998 328i E36 NZ New - with the expansion tank on the passenger side of the car and built into the radiator. I've attached a photo from under the car looking up. Looks like one of the hoses might need replacing as well. Sigh. Tim

That doesn't mean they are better. My Jap import cars have ALWAYS been in better condition than the comparative NZ new vehicle. I'm not saying this is the rule, but for the cars I have had it's been true. My 130i, E500, E55 and M5 all had absolutely no marks on them whatsoever, it's as if the Japanese owners had them running on blocks in their garage to get the mileage up or something. A lot of them also appeared to have service history.

so very nice

i did post the topaz blue one on here a few months ago (August 2018) , plate used to be "SHANE3" and asking price was around 30k back then. seems like its moved to wellington, got some nice photos and price bumped to 35k the black one for 33k nz new looks nice but its actually a MY02 not 2003.5 and hence PFL. still, probably the nicest one but also very plain nothing special which might be a good thing. unsure about big maintenance tickets though. what a tough market..

What a bunch of dicks. Im really glad you have finally got a good result, and appear to be sticking with the car ?

Had my hopes up as been looking for a good E34 for awhile now. Appears to be classic example of purchase price + money in = current value

Hi have a look under the passengers seat at the wiring and how well it is secured for the seat belt tensoner and passenger mat these are known to course the problem you mentioned.

What a great adventure. I can’t wait to try it out for myself...

What's the process and cost like for importing a car from South Africa?

There are a lot of Mint E46 M3's in South Africa. And i can tell you that South Africans look after their cars well. Of course some of the cars get thrashed like anywhere else in the world, but generally cars are babied. https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-cars-bakkies/umhlanga/2004-bmw-m3-coupe-blue-with-128518km-available-now/1003259911560910354983609 https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-cars-bakkies/sandton/2003-bmw-m3-coupe-white-with-146000km-available-now/1003186905960911152620309 https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-cars-bakkies/pietermaritzburg/bmw-m3/1003382710880910003436509 https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-cars-bakkies/berea-musgrave/2003-bmw-m3-coupe/1003116756990910415252609 https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-cars-bakkies/other/2002-bmw-m3-coupe/1003340723680910168234509 https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-cars-bakkies/other/2004-bmw-m3-coupe/1003148562520911122900409 Just a few examples of cars available there at the moment. Exchange rate is about 1NZD = 9.5ZAR (south african rand) The only reason i haven't imported is because I want to finance a car in NZ. Mrs not keen on spending house deposit money on a car !! ? I know many car fanatics there that can look at cars properly. Cheers

42k ? Better have a lot more done to it than only the rear subframe for that sort of coin.

Have you checked what Injectors your cars got? if its 07 it should have newer injectors, if its got anything below index10 you will get misse fires. Plugs are cheap anyway, change them! State of my Stock plugs was ok but its important to get plugs that you are able to gap at .022 .Makes a difference. just get plugs and give it a tune see what happens yea. I did not want to risk it so before tuning i changed my injectors to index12 cause they were old (BNK1)3index9s and (BNK2)3index7s, and sparkplugs to NGK 5992 lazeriridium 1 step colder spark plugs at .022 gap. havent changed my coils yet cause my cars only done 57000k(no need). as per me i would strongly recommend getting index 12s and the NGK plugs first before you start tuning. and as far as charge pipe goes, i ran stock chargepipe(never exploded) for over 2 months before getting vrsf with turbosmart bov. ALSO DO A FRESH FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL CHANGE. SET OF INDEX 12s was $1927.92NZD+GST about $381 or so cant remember. NGK 1step colder plugs $72.80NZD Flasher module (MHD Flasher N54) $164.99 Monitor module (MHD Flasher N54) $119.99 Stage 1/1+ petrol maps pack (MHD Flasher N54)$79.99 so before you go out and start tuning, you need to get these things out of the way then you wont have to worry about misfires, MHD reads all the codes including misfire . Let me know if you need anymore info happy to help.

Evening Team So the day has come finally and we have got the M60b44 with 5 speed swap up and running. Long time coming but was worth it. shifts really smoothly, sounds great alot quicker that the auto box. Took her for a few test runs, gave all the helpers a go at drive her too. So just small things to sort out now. tidy up electric fan wiring, get a bracket for the clutch fluid reservoir, Gear knob, put bonnet back on and get a final tune. One question for you guys if you can help out in any way. 5th gear keeps popping out, it won't even stay in position at all. any ideas of what could be the problem? Thanks Richard

that's where I got all my parts from. I started to get worried after waiting 6weeks and no package but it turned up after 3 months. How much was your DHL tax. mine was $888 And your kids should be in the garage with you learning.

Went for a drive around the block ? last night.

Rodents in cars. Have seen untold over the years & the little shits cause heaps of issues in eating through things. Often wiring is eaten inside inner guards etc - where it cannot be seen but suspicious electrical gremlins & signs of rodents is always a give away. Looks like a nice score by the way.

power antenna are a hard find these days bud, just buy new OE ones from Pelican Parts or similar. Radios are pretty hard to come by too, most were ripped out and binned in the 2000s. Have a look at this one which looks good and has blue tooth etc model number Continental TR7412UB-OR https://www.continental-automotive.com/en-gl/Trucks-Buses/Interior-Cabin/Infotainment/Radios/FM-AM-Radio-with-USB-Bluetooth

Another update Team This was a couple of weekends work, Can almost see the finish line. So motor is now mounted, had a couple little hiccups as you do. Had to remove the gearbox to get the motor in, had a few rear axle bolts give us grief so smashed them off and had to be replaced. New belts put on and asc+t throttle plate removed, new sway bar stabilizer arms and rebuilt Diff from Kayne Barrie with 3.15 LSD So tried the factory 525i diff but was slightly too long, will need to get it shorten by 27mm. Left to do. Reattach the rest of the front end. Secure electric fan onto Radiator Sort wiring out, reverse lights, car to read in neutral and jump starter motor relay. Refit exhaust And thats about it. Can't wait!

Okay, I see the problem. You can fix that by snipping the two white cords with a pair of scissors.