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buy my one , all the bits done already

NO LONGER AVAILABLE Delphin Grey 525ee. Two owners,110,000 kms.. Virtually unmarked interior and exterior. Service book with 47 stamps from delivery in September 1987 to February 2019. All original owner’s books, folder of service receipts, all tools, all keys and new Michelins all-round. $12,750

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2002-bmw-m-coupe-12/?utm_source=transactionalemail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=bat_model_notification will be interesting to see what this gets to. They are high priced in the USA

pics or it didn't happen!

The gearboxes go bad. Apparently the 5speed goes bad more often than the 6speed. Make sure any prospective cars you go to look at are cold when you see them and test drive. I drove several X5s that would bang and shift hard when cold but this largely goes away when the car warms up. Other than that be sure to have some $ set aside to replace the cheap shitty gaskets and plastic parts that will fail (coolant tank, radiator, power steering hoses etc). If you buy a V8 check that the valve stem seals have been done, without exception. They almost all seem to go bad (symptoms are blowing smoke after a few minutes at idle). Also pull off the vacuum hose and have a nosey inside the brake booster. The seals in the vac pump on the V8 go bad sometimes letting oil into the vac line. The check valve then also fails, allowing for engine oil to get sucked into the booster causing it to fail. It can't be repaired apparently, you have to replace. A new booster isn't cheap. Also removing/replacing booster etc is a big job and you will need to take it to the shop to get it bled - I tried for ages to bleed it at home with but was not able to get it done (even with a pressure bleeder and ISTA/D to cycle the ABS pump to open the valves "bleed procedure"). Also, check the underbody for any signs of coolant leaks near the bell housing. Take a torch and check the weep hole at the front of the engine next to the water pump. If you see coolant your transfer pipe could be failing. Couple hundred in parts, thousands in labour. Basically don't buy it and expect it to be reliable. Get mechanical warranty if so inclined.

Hi everyone, Forums newbie here base in Auckland. I’ve just got back to the BMW family, last BMW I had was an E92 M3 9 years ago. Had a couple of V8 AMG’s then decided to switch to the 3.0 M4 as the fuel price keeps going up ?

Nice!

I absolutely recommend Jon for anything e39 (and many other models to be honest). He was able to sort so many little issues with my old M5 when others just didn’t have the experience or want to diagnose. Glad you got rid of the shimmy!

Done a few idler arms in E34 and E32's and other cars with boxes so not uncommon. May someone did an incorrect installation on the previous stuff.

216849 km Has been in with Jon at Auto38. New TRW center drag link (ebay UK) $600 landed incl customs. New Febi idler arm bushing $74.75 Car feels significantly better....shimmy at 80km/h is CURED as is the shimmy under braking. Car feels so much more responsive and the steering feels tight, best it's ever felt under my ownership. I still have a click going on but I can live with that with the shimmy gone. Finally a mechanic who is enthusiastic about their workmanship and knows the car inside out. Jon diagnosed 5mm play in the idler arm and also found the clicking to be coming from the boots on the draglink. A way more precise diagnoses than the previous crowd I took it too.

Probably just worth waiting. I don't think they are that rare and can't image converting one would be cheap at all, and that's not including coding side of things. Im sure Ray @HELLBM would have an idea though.

im sure you can make it to the meet then get to work fast, its an M4!

Probably just price and slow speed turn in. Factory rears are 255 tires also.... The small rear tires and anaemic rear arches are imo this cars main weakness. Guys in the US buy an arch set for about 2000USD, pay another 2000usd to have the rear cut and these fitted and painted. Pricey but lets them fit 325 wheels/tires and looks great.

AC clutch should be disengaged anyway (if AC is off), so should only spinning the pulley and not the compressor

Really? You can't? Wood has a nice "natural" look and feel, more so than bloody aluminium or high gloss plastics. Plenty of luxury car interiors would disagree with you.

Disconnect rubber fuel hose from injector, and plug with bolt and clamp. Disconnect electrical connector. Those style cold start injectors were used on a few Bosch EFI setups in the 80s and they are known to leak and cause issues. Disconnecting the electrical connector only wont stop it leaking.

Forgot to mention . Both my e70 and e60 i have mbi and both through turners. I didnt purchase either cars through them but jist took them in and had apraised and then got the insurance .the e70 has 10k claim limit and the e60 has 4k . 10k for e70 as alot more expensive to repair with airbags etc . For 3 years on the e70 with 10k claim was $1800. The only thing i dont like about mbi is you have to put it in to be serviced which isnt cheap .Im quite fussy and do all my own services at 5 thousand k for oil and filter and all the rest at 10thou k . . I still service mine every 5thou but then at 10thou have to put into shop to be done which annoys me

I’ve been using FCP Euro for 11-12 years for the bulk of my parts, with some from the local dealer, and sometimes Schmiedmann. I’ve tried Pelican and found the scant savings (on some items), not worth the hassle compared the FCP’s better service. YMMV. FCP have recently re-signed with FedEx which makes things great for us down here in the shaky isles. HTH PS: Mick’s Garage can also be attractive for selected parts. Brands clearly identified so you know what you’re buying, pricing in NZD, and 5 day DHL from Ireland.