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And then.... hmmmm.... I’d better buy an engine stand! A big shout to Josh & his brother, and Barry, thanks lads!

A couple of weekends ago I finally got to take the car out for a proper Sunday drive!

Told myself I wasn't going to mod it... a few cosmetic bits doesn't count right? Hope these fit right. The CF weave isn't perfect on the diffuser when you look close... but it also cost a fraction of the price of the OEM one.

Rescued by Hellbm and given the 3 day makeover. Manual conversion Rear Dif mount Engine and gearbox mounts Front Shocks Steering wheel replacement Tighten various loose and missing bolts, clips etc Aftermarket tinted side markers replaced with OEM ones. Wheels replaced with Style 405 / Michelin Pilot Sport To do: Paint refresh Front bumper Clubsport Splitters.

I fitted a GP2 by Speedbuster to my VW R32 VR6 powered Touran... It's adjustable via phone bluetooth. I did it to REDUCE the throttle sensitivity,, because I struggled to control it smoothly =- it was either 100% nana, or full on launch! The advantage with the GP2 is that it has a custom setting where you can set your own curve - it doesn't apply it instantly at startup though - I turn on my ignition, press the throttle to the floor, and it's set. Your way would be so bad though, as it would get more sensitive as soon as you started driving. It's sold as the Speedbuster GP2, the MAD Go Pedal and mine was actually supplied by TMC motorsport, though it was ordered via a speedbuster website: https://www.tmcmotorsport.com/power-pedal-accelerator-tuning-phone-controls

Have a few here along with a few complete 130`s. Manual sump silvertop available as well.

I have one, but it's wrapped in a car that you'd have to take at the same time... it's strong, and you wouldn't need a trailer to get it home. ?

Project My two still run mint, but one's at 280,000+km and I want to build up something to beat on with MILVs and headers etc, then rebuild the old one as a slow burn project once it's over 300k.

Blacktop, want the silver top OG.

Yeah had considered that. I have a heat gun now, pretty sure with heat gun plus suction cup I'll get it. I was making progress with the hair dryer and suction cup on it but very slowly. Would be super happy if someone in Tauranga had a rivet gun / dent puller and an angle grinder haha. Oh well, hard road for me. The rhs quarter panel is within micro meters of something I can live with, guide coats showing less and less low spots. Never thought I'd find it such a challenge! Also today something arrived, couldn't resist. You can't have an e46 without halos. Did my best to keep the wiring neat with bullet connectors, soldering and heat shrink tubing. Plan on putting a relay in eventually so I can have halos linked to the interior lighting / unlock mechanism too.

As you say there are many 722.4 transmissions, they are a hydraulically controlled transmission so the many variants although basically the same are quite different and the control ie valvebody, governor, vacuum modulator etc are calibrated to cope with different shift patterns and timing depending on model of vehicle, weight of vehicle, diesel or petrol and kw rating. Coop is correct a no forward drive can be caused by the B2 (rear band) servo pin falling out this is usually caused by wear and the plastic retainer clip breaking allowing the pin to fall out. To give you an idea of hydraulic vs electronic control, GM had 73 different build versions of the 4L60 transmission and when they changed to electronic control of the same transmission I think the number of different builds was reduced to 6 or 7.

Pretty sure they are M12

Well, we bought an engine stand and assembled it... and with the help of the neighbours, we've manhandled the future heart of Grey Thunder down to floor. Now I need the right sized bolts to connect the engine stand to the bell-housing bolts. Anyone know what size and thread they are?

Exciting times!

Seems clear that the fast wagon market will be Alpina only going forward because BMW would rather you purchase this...?

Same, I was hopeful for a silver one at pick a part, but it was munted...

What about a dazzle ship camo scheme of stahlgrau and silbergrau? It'll be extra-stealthy! Seriously though, the stahlgrau does seem to have the edge. For the left side dent under the hofmeister kink, as you've still a ways to go - how about the old-school slide hammer? Drill hole(s), screw hammer tip in, gently pull out. It's coming along brilliantly, keep up the great work! Patience, time, and attention to detail. Nice one!

2297XX Celis F/L tailights installed. I've been trying to do this for about 1 year now. After 2 dud sets off trademe I had sort of given up but then @BreakMyWindow came through with a set from one of his recent missions to A&E. These also had the plug adapters, major score. Then I was too noob/scared to use NCS to try and code them in and my ISTA P is still not working but @hqstu came through with an LCM IIIB off a late model 525 running all the celis and xenon goods. My PA soft 1.4 is working and so following the E39 source videos I coded the LCM to my car, was alittle apprehensive as to how the front Xenons and wiring were going to respond but everything works perfect so I went ahead and started drilling some holes in the the tailight buckets. I followed E39 source videos again for this and a forum DIY. No hole saw but this stepped drill bit worked a charm New holes plug adapters Before after Fitments pretty good, I did have to do abit of bashing with a hammer. Since I've had it 3 years as of this month I thought some new plates would make a nice birthday present. TBH i was planning on keeping the plates when I sold it so went about remaking them while I was filling in the forms to make them mine. I didnt drill the rear plate, I just screwed the surround (which is abit faded and could probably do with a refresh) and then snapped the plate in place. The E39 community really helped me out with this one, thanks guys! Update on the shimmy. Case closed. I've had 2 people drive the car now and they are more worried about my mental health than any vibrations. Tyres are still on the cards and a new Battery is in the not to distant future too.

And that's why M cars are M cars.

While the wait for the cert plate was between 4-8 weeks, i would be cutting it fine to reach my goal of the mega meet. This wouldn’t stop me from revealing it for the first time. Taking out most modified at the 2019 New Zealand E30 Mega Meet. Photo credit: Hugo Greenwood Photo credit: Hugo Greenwood Photo credit: Hugo Greenwood Photo credit: Hugo Greenwood Massive thanks to those that have been involved or helped out in one way or another to get the car to this point. Couple of small things to sort then i can finally enjoy it!