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How genuine is that web-site though, lots of errors in the info - it’s not a 92, it’s not auto, wheels aren’t 18’ and if it is a 6 cylinder than that explains the price! They have two others listed, a red one sold at 250k (NZ$100k) and a black one still for sale at 200k (NZ$80k) which does make the white one look like good buying. Yes NZ E30s are a bit over-priced on world market but you are taking a punt on buying overseas when you can travel to see it!

Never seen one of those in the wild, and I’m pretty sure I would have noticed it and remembered!

You’re probably right, however that sounds like a good price in Dubai. Add on the freight, tax and compliance costs, it goes up. Not to $100k for sure but there’s probably a premium on not having to worry about doing all that yourself, too? The Coronavirus bubble appears to have plateaued or even shrunken a bit?

I think the NZ market is definitely inflated. E30 M3s sitting at $100k going nowhere. Meanwhile in Dubai https://www.dubicars.com/1992-bmw-m3-current-location-japan-455013.html 150,000 AED is about $60,000 NZD for an E30 M3 with 56000kms.

I’m pretty sure I’ve seen one in Auckland, but can’t remember where or when. Sorry that doesn’t really help!

What he ^^^^ says. I have a vinyl sticker on my helmet just to make it easy to identify in case I put it down somewhere. Never drew any attention at scrutineering for clubsport events. The scrutineers are only looking for the SNELL or SFI stickers that show the helmet is approved for motorsport use, so best not to obscure them. Cheers...

Section 4.1 point 3 relates to scrutineer approval labels (a label to denote that the helmet has been inspected and approved). Not labels that are approved by scrutineers.

My interpretation of Schedule A is only Motorsport NZ approved labels can be affixed, but read this - Section 4.1 point 3 https://manual.motorsport.org.nz/index.php/knowledgebase/36-2-01a-schedule-a-1/#a1-4

Its not really misleading advertising either; they arent specifically saying this car meets the clean car tax criteria, thats a generic blurb on their profile. But car dealers will do and say almost anything to make a sale. Almost as greasy as estate agents. Almost.

OEM springs and retainers are pretty mediocre on most BMW motors. If they're willing to check a few valve seat pressures you will get a good idea of condition Chances are the old springs will be at 45-50Lb of seat pressure. Fine for tootling around, not particularly good for giving the bash A fast road m5x requires 85lb at a minimum for 7000rpm and a moderate cam All that sealant gives me reflux man

What are you planning on doing with the car? Koni yellow and H&R springs will outperform BC golds or BC reds on the road XYZ adjustable set up are cost effective and great starting point for track work, speed factor in Tauranga sell them. Manual conversion is getting pricey now but is a great way to make the car more fun, typically a getrag kit is well upwards of 2.5k, plus it's foolish to not replace clutch/flywheel/master and slave at the same time, add another $1k to bring good quality gear in from overseas.

Looking sharp as full stop, let alone for 300+ km. Ride height is great too

Gave the paint a going over with the Meguiar's DA microfiber system. Stopped using foam pads after i tried this as i found it delivers good results for minimal time and outlay. No swirls or holograms so maybe someone has cleaned well over the years or corrected it in the past? @hqstu ?. Got most of the light scratching out leaving some the time consuming deeper ones alone. With thinner clear and stone chips present in certain areas i dont think its worth the risk given the light blue hides defects very good. Ride height has increased a little with the new parts but im a fan of factory lowered height. Yet it scrap it in all the typical situations after a few 100 k's so should limit any bumper damage.

My n52b25 and n52b30 run fine on 95, both are Japanese imports. There's definitely something wrong with your car. The response you got from Cooke Howlison sounds like a typical bull$hit dealership. I would suggest bypassing them and find a BMW specialist. If the check engine light comes on, there will definitely be codes stored in the fault memory.

Yeah would probably been around $400 cheaper without the diff. I checked with BMWorld, Weitz and a few other places and none had 2.93's in stock so felt it was worth it. Probably nothing to worry about with the diff as it is but the rust is an eye sore, and a bit concerning with the rust all over the flanges as well. Would ideally like to address somehow but might just see how far a scrub would take me. Could be keen on the flywheel-clutch combo aye. I'm just having a mate price one up this coming week as well but haven't sorted anything yet. Shoot me a message with what sort of money you'd be after. Cheers Seller sorted the shipping but I believe it went through a few carriers along the way, DHL taking it the last step. From what I've gathered, it renders the first gear practically useless and shoots the cruising RPM's up way too high. Looking to have this car mainly as a weekend road trip cruiser rather than a drag racer 😄 Sticking with a stock gearbox-diff combo should also save me from having to recalibrate the speedo I'm hoping? I did consider it but reckon it would have demolished the budget completely. The higher cost of the box itself, likely difficulty sorting suitable gearbox cross member, likely having to modify the prop, that leading to needing driveshaft hoops, plus a myriad of other potential compatibility issues, figured it just wasn't worth it for what I'm going for. Took the missus out for a wee cruise to Arthur's Pass yesterday. Been a while since I'd wandered out onto the open road so definitely enjoyed the drive, even if it meant the engine light decided to wake up from its slumber... So lucky to have these awesome roads right on the doorstep. Also, picked up a set of relatively tidy style 193's the other day. Been meaning to get either these or style 135's for a while now as I'm not awfully keen on the current 194's. Absolutely love these wheels, fit them on earlier today and love how they sit. Exactly the same offset as the current ones so shouldn't have any fitment issues having rolled the rear guards already. The front tyres are near new (even if they are Vitora's) but the rears are absolutely shagged with wires poking out so will need new rubber before they can go on. Open to suggestions as to what to go with. Had Potenzas on my old coupe and was pretty happy with them but open to options. Will probably just get the rears at the moment but might do the whole set if I get a decent deal.

It’s certainly a happening thing https://www.autocar.co.nz/clean-car-bill-passes-third-and-final-reading-will-be-passed-into-law/