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Got some solid work in today and completed the fabrication of the trans mount / drive shaft loop !! Just need to clean up the welds and a bit of spatter etc then paint and it can go in for good at last.

Took advantage (as many have) of a TradeMe freebie day and listed the Baur (and the 500SL). Over 1000 views between the two in under 12 hours. Not one question, comment...

Might have to hold off for the day. That shed would be handy 😅

I sold a mk5 cortina with 298 watchers and 9000 views - only 4 people came to view after 3 weeks listed. I also sold a projector that had 151 views and 6 watchers - sold in 3 days. Only need that one person.

Sounds good @charles28 may be able to give some insight on this, using meth injection with tuned n54 on track.

Cheers that's a good suggestion, when I'm bored at work next I'll look into those

good question, only one way to find out... the thing is most people that drive n54s use them from highway glory runs or doing one or two pulls rather than repeated, high rpm driving such as on a track. Might be worth trying to search up some track builds such as the Berk time attack 135i race car and see what sort of cooling they run, most of the time they seem to spend more effort on oil coolers etc reducing engine oil temps rather than IATs. Meth injection may be worth considering as a way to cool down the IATs, Ken from Wedge-performance recommends the AEM kit.

Thanks Dave. Still a bit of a PITA job with no room to swing a ratchet - constantly fouling on one or another bit of car - and necessitated use of a very slim 18mm spanner I fortunately have. Jacked up car, removed wheel, positioned axle sand under hub flange, gently lowered car on to axle stand sufficient to unload the link, struggle with the nuts but once released, came apart very easily. All done. Just need to polish the headlights and go get a WoF retest.

Got the ventilation blowing again - bad resistor. It's definitely the season it is needed most. Came across this bi-directional damper when putting everything back. Took me a while to figure out where it belonged to! Glove box.

Yeah, check those endlink bots @Sammo, one of mine loosened itself and clunked. If you can't see anything obvious you can always remove the bar and go for a drive to isolate (or eliminate) that as the cause.

The VRSF 7.5 one seems to be quite good from what ive heard, charge pipe meth injection could also help to reduce intake temps

At 10 years old and negative temps, I believe you’ve found your problem. Hope so.

I’m amazed by what low voltage does in a modern (ish) car. We have an ‘07 Civic, air con stopped working, thought “oh well”, needed a new battery, air con works. I’ve been reading thinking battery because you’re in a colder area, but I’m no guru. Look forward to seeing what the problem is.

Funny, drove past a few weeks ago and thought to myself "man BMW have been there a long time!"

I actually think they are quite cool and quirky. Would suit an old French car like a 205 GTI, Renault Alpine, Citroen SM etc well IMO!

Yes, agree, that doesn’t sound right at all. Our 116d (pretty much same engine) is completely different when cranking. Yours doesn’t sound like it is turning fast enough to catch and fire. I would think that is your issue, and not the glow plugs.

Thought I recognized the house in his other listings. It's the spot that hosted the influencer party during lockdown. https://i.stuff.co.nz/national/health/coronavirus/300434808/covid19-police-issue-six-infringement-notices-to-north-shore-partygoers Probably a stand up member of society.

New little project, give them a good clean and birthday step 1. Lucked out and the drivers side is the rocking horse sh*t SP-DC top of the line electric everything version.

I wasn't really concerned with your comment, I was just checking, hoping to avoid conflict.

I have the same setup, so any questions fire away. I can’t take the credit for putting it all together, that was another member. I just dropped it into my compact

Man I dont know what happened to this post I just wanted some basic information on a good direction for my build but its turned political like some reddit post... on a side note anyone selling an SC14 supercharger I ended up buying the HMW kit. If you dont have anything good to say just keep it to yourself please

Is this Facebook for kids? Or a BMW forum, for people to learn about cars? I guess haters will always hate. Absolutely nothing wrong with using an apartment address for your business headquarters. I use one of my rental properties. I'm not going to give anybody my real address. But I do own this property as well. As for those Dyno sheets that most people have. They mean absolutely nothing in the real world. A dyno is good for setting up ignition ,fuel, vvt, and a few other things. Many times I've had to pull power from the top end just to smooth out the mid-range transition. So the car ended up making less Peak power but produce much faster lap times. This is why I choose superchargers over turbos. You are not going to break boost into a tight turn from a high-speed just so you can have power on the exit. I guess this is why the Hyde Motor Works Supercharger kits are selling so well. When I first met Hyde, I was running an M90 from the Thunderbird SC, on my 93 325is. 9 PSI, 12 PSI once I sent the rotors out to be coated. He told me about his sc-14 project, and other projects He had in mind. Honestly I did not think there was a market for something like this. I thought I was the only one that like to stand out and do something completely different from everybody else. All my buddies run modified coyote Mustangs and LS Camaros. And told me to swap in an LS instead of playing around with that little BMW engine. I'm not going to say that I can beat every one of them, but I can hurt some feelings. That's all Hyde and me are offering, an option to do something different. At an extremely reasonable price. Yes you can buy a cheap turbo kit off of eBay. Then spend three times or more making it work right. Then have to replace cheap Turbo with an expensive one. Because the cheap one spit out a seal and spun a bearing. All these attacks on his character based on hearsay don't belong on this forum. For that , this will be my last post here. Go well, be safe, Godspeed.

Greetings! I just wonder, for someone who claims to be in a witness protection program, is it a very smart thing to do by publicly announcing this? And out of all places a BMW Forum. Are you sure its not called a public protection program with a lifetime supply of prescription pills? 😂 Honestly, our time is used more wisely by not discussing flat earth and covid conspiracy theories, batman, aliens, and perhaps now what remains is to pin the dinosaurs extinction among other things on people you dislike for your own shortcomings. Apart from that, we had a great laugh! Had some friends read it out loud the other day. Just brilliant, one friend was seriously concerned actually about you, poor chap. It maybe best you see a doctor, don't let the lock down get you down poor chap! 👍 Best Wishes Your wording speak much of your humble intellect and great wisdom. I would say you kids have following the foot steps of the previous "Great President" of the United States, remarkable resemblance and if you find enough people as yourselves you may also become a "Great Leader" to your country! For some reason some of us are thankful you are not. On a serious note, Its a pity what has become of this place. You represent this community and right now you are casting a bad light on it by posting and encouraging such behavior. Full stop. And in the end if anyone, it is the community and its owners that get into trouble because of what you said and allowed to be said. And no one should get into trouble because of your personal problems. I think its best you gentlemen follow the rules that are set, and clean up your mess and that of the ones you allowed, before someone decides its not fun and games anymore. As you know, morons with money can afford to play with you and have a laugh at your expense doing it, if they took you seriously that is. 😅 All the best! ====================== Thank you everyone, please excuse me, I must retire from this conversation before these kids get into trouble. Best wishes and warm regards. 😊👍

Hey there, I feel I just have to add to your post and correct a few points, so by any means don't take it personally, as it seems we have enough kids lurking about's here as it is. 1. Its best to never run water injection or such with a supercharger (Twin screw and Roots) that has coated rotors, basic physics and thermodynamics will dictate a few things here, most importantly your rotor coatings pealing off in given time due to the rapid hot and cold cycles. Specially never run it in front of the blower, which you can do with the older 6–71 blowers. Even if you put it in the manifold, on a closed system with the MAF, you will have to use a re circulation valve that will come in front of the blower intake and it will go inside there, not to mention the cyclone effect and droplets sticking to your MAF. Its best sticking to air to air intercooling. 2. On to the second point, actually if you notice, the post said the LOWEST seen was that. And I emphasis on lowest. That said remember the most an SC14 has seen has been 400WHP on a S52B32. And that was a 323I M52B25 which was an increase from 150 at the wheels to 200 at the wheels. Others have seen much more, some more attached. Here is a Dyno done in of Matt / Penguin Pools in Tauranga, NZ. And you can see the output a whopping near 290whp. And he was not even running 8PSI, but 6. And here is the other with a whopping 330whp on another dyno. Typically the average M50 / M52 sees some 155-160whp. Here is a good example if what just 3 PSI can do. A 39% Gain of power just with 3PSI. Now the calculations are just a formula, but they are far from poor or made for duping people, numbers are right in front of you. 3. The SC14 is just one of the many superchargers available, Today there are HMW kits for pretty much every single popular supercharger out there starting from M45, M62, M90, SC14, SC12, AMR500, M122H, TVS2350, The KB/Whipple 2.8L-2.9L. Literally the largest supercharger kit ever built for these cars has been done by HMW. Next step is just to acquire the license to produce their own TX15's and TX28's. Hi Troy, There are a few things we need to add to this. 1. Penguin Pools must have used multiple engines If I recall the M52 was used later on? Dynos are above/below attached of their cars. 2. The Brackets were MADE BY Penguin Pools using our instructions and whatever material / method they chose to use. And they regretted it and mentioned they would had preferred to gotten the brackets from HMW. So the brackets were not supplied by or and official HMW Product, which is huge chunk of metal 10mm thick. @M3AN @dirtydoogle@polley@Greenday694 Now I want to give some perspective here for you guys and everyone else. Every Supercharger or Turbo has a efficiency level and is ratted for a certain amount of maximal airflow which we can translate to HP/CFM vice versa. There is a give and take. Efficiency will drop after you start hitting that limit and you wont be able to push more. This part is clear. Question is if we buy a Compressor ratted to 300HP, Why expect it to deliver 400? If you buy a brand new SC14 it would run you upwards of $3000-$4000, If you buy a refurbishment maybe around $1000, a Secondhand unit for $150 - $200 ($350 - $400 NZD). So let me get this straight. We are supposed to pay 1/10 the price of a brand new SC14 unit, to go and buy a used second hand 30 year old SC14 unit, knowing their rated power output shall not be more than say 300-350HP. Then we complain why it does not deliver more power than its rated for, and then we refuse to service or rebuild it and then blame the supercharger for failing after a year and a half? Do you see the logic behind this? This is the mentality that is the root of the problem. Now let me give you something else, You want 400-450HP. Have a small budget, and cant afford to build the motor much if at all, Then you have the choice of going with some cheapo chinease turbo kit that may or may not work and get you there for a while. Everybody has been doing that. So in Matts (Penguin Pools) Case, they wanted a cheap setup, built the brackets following our V2 designs, had a relatively good power output as you can see for a stock engine. It went well, Then they wanted more power, now for their budget, the next upgrade kit is the M1 ratted for upto 500-700HP. Last year they wanted to upgrade to the M1 Kit, but due to work and personal life problems on his side, he could not afford to go that route. And perhaps he was not needing that kind of power, Anybody who has doubts can go check with him directly. So in such a case, what is someone to do? They have to make compromise, and get what works best for them within their budget. That would be a turbo. Be honest, Most people would consider themselves lucky to see near 250HP to the wheels on these 30 year old cars, specially in NZ. The next step up would mean to build an engine that can handle it, most people don't have either the knowledge, skills, time and mostly finances to afford that, specially in NZ. There are HMW engines here that cost upwards of $30,000 - $40,000 NZ Dollars in parts alone, in parts alone gentlemen! These are build to hold over 1200 HP's. Do you think anyone here will go that deep on a single engine? Now imagine having a shop do the work. If you have the money, you can grab a kit that allows you to fit a blower that is larger than your engine capacity, Then don't forget everything else that needs to be built to hold such power, the whole drive train, the gearbox, the differential, the whole sub frame and chassis that needs work. How many people here do that? Not too many. No truth is most people cant and wont go that far. In the end it depends on what your budget is, what you want and what you can or can not get from your budget. They are NOT Teflon coated. Something we found out as well. The cost to rebuild one of these units (including the rear bearings) would typically be around €1500 euros plus shipping. There are 3 workshops under us in Europe that will do it. I would opt for the TX28 however.

Sorry I'm late to the party. I'm Keith of KC design concept - Hyde Motor Works. Nobody's saying that superchargers are the best option for everybody. But they are an option. All of the Hyde Motorworks Supercharger kits have been proven thousands of times over. Adding to that, the superchargers that have failed were used units that most likely had extremely high mileage and or were not properly maintained. The sc14 in question, has proven itself in the American Endurance Championship Series. In many cases involved a 24 hour race. With zero failure, running 9 PSI on a m52b28. But once again this was with proper maintenance, on a strictly track prepped race car. Now if you are just looking to add a little more power to your street car, without modifying everything else , the sc14 would be ideal. You can literally bolt it on and tune it in a weekend. But once again this is offered as an option, to build something different, do something different. Personally I prefer 600 + horsepower.

Applying virtual power is one thing, however In Germany, there is a law about slandering ones reputation, last I checked the 30 million euro insurance covers the company and the owner. Future accusations from them may result in a lawsuit one may not be able to afford. Thanks for being fair, just and reasonable in the face of ignorance and hate. Should you ever be around these parts, some beers await. 😀 Topic Printed. Abuse of power is one thing, slander another. Even using words like that, you are just a signature away from legal, do take notes. have a great day.

Dear friends, Its amusing and interesting, So much hate and so much misinformation, tall tales and even lies. Monty Python would be proud and one can certainly reach the yellow press with such. In the end I can only wish some of you the very best. I must respond and say, last I checked this 'moron' was on the German newspapers and was meeting the mayor of the city for his contributions: https://wilih.de/neu-stuttgarter-spendet-10-000-einwegmasken - These days hes hanging out with some higher ups at some very big companies in the automotive sector and I heard his company has gone international worth a few million and 6 branches around the world. Last I checked his company was one of the 7 in the world doing what they did. Things crazy morons do. He even gave away a car above to a Charlie from Christchurch whose a member of this forum and he can confirm the false story above, he had run the car low on oil (after a 1200KM Drive back to South Island) and he confirmed it, and he still had a year time to pay. Dont know many people doing that. I must forward this topic to the former director of the MB Kompressor department, so that moron who lives 2 houses away from him, can sit down over a nice evening and have a laugh and remind themselves that the Eaton was only the second option as the original choice was the German designed and lisenced by Ogura SC14 (Wankel AG - https://www.wankel-ag.de/seite1_e.html) and was not an option due to low manufacturing capacity (Toyota buying them all up) Back on topic, We all should respect the beliefs others have, but science is science and has no place but facts. Below are the lowest numbers seen this year. Before and After. Much love and warm regards.

Hi Doug, I wouldn't be too dismissive. Having seen a few hundread installations that typically are setup to make 8PSi or more...and these having run on 3.2L Engines that have been in enough races. The M54B30 is nothing special apart from having 15mm longer headbolts. The M90 is the same size as the SC14? A lot of factors come into play, and a M122H that produces 600+ HP on a 5.8L Ford modular engine is 2L. A lot of factors come into play and for a mesely 300HP at the crank, I would not invest my money on anything but a M62 (1L) or SC14. The M90's would cost and arm and a leg. An SC14 with a 80mm pulley will be all you need for 8PSI +. Here are some maths, you can input your values as you go. Hope that helps and do whatever works best for you. ====================================== Calculating Engine Liters/min @ 0 Psi Formula: Liters x RPM / 2 = Liter of Air/Min at 0 psi (N/A Motor) Multiply engine capacity (in liters) times maximum engine Rpm. 2.8 liters x 7000 rpm = 19600 liters/minute. Divide this figure by 2 as engine only fills every second stroke. So, 19600 / 2 = 9800 liter of air/min on a naturally aspired M52B28. Calculating Boost Ratio Add the boost pressure desired (5 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). 5 psi +14.7 psi = 19.7 psi Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. 19.7 psi / 14.7 = 1.34 Calculating Actual Air Requirements at Desired Boost Multiply the boost ratio by the liters/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Liters/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 9800 liters/min X 1.34 = 13132 liters/min Often the question arises if the SC14 is adequate for the 2.8L or even 3L M3’s, They flow more air(1.4L) vs the Eaton M62(1L), and we will be doing some calculations to decide on the correct size of supercharger for your car, you need to know:- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.4 litres/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. eg. Eaton M62 = 12 psi, Toyota SC14 = 10Psi(? Beyond that Teflon on rotors melts?) Calculating Supercharger Rotor Speed Divide the desired air flow (13132L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.42 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 13132 / 1.42 = 9248 Calculating Pulley Size Ratio Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 2800cc @ 5psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is 9248 / 7000 rpm = 1.32  Pulley Size Ratio With an 4″ (103mm) Pulley on the supercharger the size of the crank pulley for this ratio would be 1.32x 4 = 5.28” Note: M52B28 Crankshaft Pulley is around 6” or 152mm, the SC14 differs between 115mm and 125mm, We are using a 103mm pulley.) Final Calculations Pulley Size Ratio –> 6″ (crank pulley) / 4″ (SC14 pulley) = 1.5 Max SC14 RPM –> 1.5 (Pulley Size Ratio) x 7000 (Max Engine RPM) = 10500 RPM Air output with 6″ Crank Pulley –> 1.42(SC14 Displacement) x 10500(Max SC14 RPM) = 14910cc Boost Ratio –> 14910 / 9800 = 1.52 Max PSI Boost –> 1.52 x 14.7 = 22.34 – 14.7 = 7.6 PSI at 7000RPM or 5PSI at 6000RPM – both using the 4” (103mm) Pulley. ===========================================

Hey, here is some input from experience. All this will depend on your power goals and how much power you start with. In your case, If you are set on the SC14, you can typically get 280-320 HP at the crank with a proper tune at around 8 PSI from most M52B28 engines. The Penguin Pools NZ race car used the M54B30 engine with the HMW V2 SC14 Kit and saw over 330WHP 3 years ago, and the American Endurance race cars saw well over 400rwhp with the S52B32 build engine in 2017. You can get a little bit more with the M90 (they are both the same size, the M90 is tri lobed so 10-15% more efficient) but those units are hard to come by. They are all roots blowers and will give a linear torque curve unlike anything else, But I would not push a stock engine past 300. Go with 36lbs or 42lbs injectors. The ECU you have is likely the MS43 (if you are lucky) otherwise its a MS45, both can be flashed by a good tuner. Its all in the tune. Keep reading through the forced induction section of this forum, you will find enough information, all the best with your project.