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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/06/24 in Posts
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4 pointsGot the entire fan base of the Ti in NZ, all of 3 people, in here defending it's boot space.
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2 pointsYuuuuur from the research I've done: My OEM 318 is 22.2 / 20.6 330 is 23.8 / 22.2 E46 M3 is 25 / 20 with MK20 ABS and 25 / 22 with the MK60 (these look like approximate sizes, likely 1" in reality etc) So I'll likely have a look around once I know what sort of front to rear size ratio will work best for my setup. Have located TRW M3 for a non insane price Printed off a rotor hat so i can do more fitment mockups / validation, only just fit on my printer bed and took about 16 hours !! I then added a portion of the rotor and glued them together ... too keen to get it glued up and neglected to ensure it was nice an square so may turn out to be of limited use 😕 Might do another one for the other side over the weekend and ensure i do it properly. Picked up the result of my thinking cap time also and am really pleased with how these worked. This was to validate more accurately (than my 3D printed 'jig') what i had measured with my laser level. What I'm measuring here are the offset front to back as well as depth of the caliper mounting holes in the knuckle vs the centre. Attached is my high tech engineering drawing if anybody wants to replicate 😆 Worked out really well, and proved the 3D printed jig was only about 0.2mm out front to back !! From memory there was a previous 1mm variation between the laser measurements and the 3D printed jig also. Shout out to James Simpson Engineering who turned these for a very reasonable in 2024 $40. I should point out that while the 3D printed jig was a good fit when on the car it was essentially impossible to measure the 'as built' dimensions of the plastic part. I'm being pretty particular here as I'm in no hurry.
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2 pointsIf I had to get another e53, definitely a facelift diesel. I had a 2006 3.0d and it towed so well. Previously had a pre facelift petrol V8 and it loved to drink, and break down a lot, oh and drink. I tried a 3.0i petrol. It was okay, but I don’t think you gain much economy. If you can stretch a little further, look at an e70. They are coming down in price, and arguably the e53’s are getting high on mileage. They’re definitely an improvement on the e53, with a bit more refinement and space.
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2 pointsIf you can find a decent diesel, I’d by far recommend that over the M54 in an X5. Theres a (350km) one for $4650 on FB and a 240km one for an optimistic $7k as well.
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1 point
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1 pointBecause when you’re looking at buying an E30 practicality is high on the list of “must haves” 🫠 Only thing better, apart from the boot, in a Compact than an E30 are the engines.
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1 pointIf it weren't for the 4wd system id agree, shame they did make a rwd version as its pointless for most people.
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1 pointYeah M54's in the X5 are sluggish and are always revving out to get moving. Amazing how much better the M54 goes in the E39 and E60 M54 with the 6 speed auto.
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1 point
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1 pointEV company car for the win! Zero fuel bill, RUCs paid. Also next to no brake dust as regen braking is used 99% of the time for single pedal driving (wonder what old 3pedals would have to say about that) so don’t have to clean alloys that often. Amongst other things 😜
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1 pointA GS6-45BZ from an N55 vehicle (e.g. M135i) can be made to work. The 45BZ used in S55 (F8x) applications is different (longer bellhousing due to different flywheel setup).
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1 pointCar finally back and better than ever at least - the delay was caused by a wait on a front shock - assuming they only replaced the front left but front end feels a bit tighter now at least.
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1 pointcoloured park lights and angel eye rings piss me off so much. Blatantly illegal, very obvious, owners DGAF and nothing happens to them. I use cold white leds as park lights and get told to remove them by an officer at a checkpoint, and then fail a wof because of them.
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1 pointBeen doing quite a few trips in the dark recently and noticed a hell of a lot of cars with stupid aftermarket lights bolted on. Many of which would be illegal / WoF fails. Including - utes with LED light bars across the bonnet and above the cab - it’s Auckland FFS not Nevada. Old Toyota with “line” style white lights around the rear boot and bumper? Lots of people movers with blue lights at the front for headlights and fog lights? Good old retro “neons” lighting up the road under the car - many so badly fitted you can see the actual light under the car! Half the drivers in Auckland are confused if it rains let alone if it’s dark and there’s what looks like a UFO coming at them.
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1 pointI've just finished reading through this thread from the start (I'm looking at getting one of these in the next year or so as my daily). Stunned at how you have done all this work as a student. Takes a lot of passion for the project and maturity I didn't have when I was a student. All my spare money went on beers and I wouldn't have had the motivation to do something like this (on the side of study plus part-time work). To have done all as a uni student - mean. Car is sick. Hopefully you now have it off the street and in a private space. Look forward to seeing what comes next.
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1 point
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1 pointTook the car to the Springfield road hillclimb up in Whangarei on Sunday, was great fun but far from ideal conditions for a rwd twin turbo car on semi slicks, absolutely no grip, was pouring down for most of the day. Made it home safely in one piece which ill call a win. Have now began the next project one ive been wanting to for a long time, a manual conversion. Diff, driveshaft, exhaust, intake manifold, starter motor and gearbox are out after a few hours of wrenching on the weekend, really not bad at all to do on jackstands. Have also removed drivers seat, brake pedal, accelerator pedal, various trims, center console, etc. Am now waiting for more parts (clutch,flywheel,diff and various shifter linkage bushings, dssr etc). Have made a start on the wiring in the meantime, removed the auto box wiring, plugged in the manual gearbox loom which is mostly plug and play, just need to disassemble DME connectors, with the exception of two plugs which are missing on the manual loom (most likely all the communication to the TCU). Only issue I can forsee is potentially some ground wires going through those plugs that other modules rely on. Next up will be figuring out the clutch switch wiring to FRM/CAS/DME. Will also need to get a clutch line made as I dont really want to try have to run the factory hardline behind the dash.
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1 point
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