Leaderboard

So four years ago (woah, four years!) I had a rather decent early E36 M3. I had a thread here, Unfortunately I made the mistake of selling that car, and M3s aren't getting any cheaper, so now it's harder than ever to get another one. Rubbish ones are expensive and good ones are even more expensive. A couple of months ago I purchased an E91 335i, which although having been modded, so it was fast, it was as dull as bricks to drive otherwise. I wanted another analogue car, like an M3, where the only driving is done by me, not a computer. I put the E91 up for sale and got offered an E36 M3 for a swap, which of course I'm going to be super interested in. Unfortunately the seller was someone reluctant to provide VIN details of the car initially, and it turned out that it was actually a 328i that had had a full M3 conversion. Initially I wasn't interested, I wanted a "real" M3, but the more I thought of it, the more a reshelled car actually made sense to me. I didn't want to modify my previous M3 much, as i was concerned about ruining its "originality", so a car that already wasn't original means i can do the mods i didn't do to the previous M3. It sadly also means that it doesn't hold the same value as a real M3, but oh well. So this is what I have ended up. 1996 BMW 328i Shell (New Zealand New) Boston Green Metallic Slicktop The donor M3 was a South African spec BF92 1996 M3 in Daytona Violet 3.0L S50B30 engine (no emissions gear, no cats, but the full fat engine unlike the early SA spec cars) 5 Speed manual with LSD Vader seats (Nappa leather) M3 suspension and brakes The donor had aluminium doors, but they weren't carried over The only mods are 20" Chrome Work VS-KF Full sound system with full boot install and a sully sik early 00s flip up touch screen headunit Everything else is stock M3. Unfortunately the car is a complete basket case, and has way more issues than expected and more keep popping up every day. The good thing is that I love a project, and fully intend to have this car as a nice solid car I can enjoy driving. The good first New headlining Good condition interior (except steering wheel where all the leather has been removed) Tidy exterior (and Boston Green is a stunning colour!) Smooth gearbox and quiet engine (other than Vanos noise) Head gasket and timing chain recently done, with head professionally cleaned up So far the issues identified are Vanos is dead. No power below 4000rpm, and can hear the usual grumble/rattle. (Kinda fixed) Starter doesn't always engage first time (free spins and engages when key is released, and then will start next try) (Fixed) Passengers window only goes up about an inch at a time (Seems to have fixed itself for now) Ignition barrel sometimes free spins (Fixed) Airbag light stays on a long time before going out. Codes for passenger occupancy sensor (Fixed) Shifter bushings well and truly gone (Fixed) A high idle (Fixed) A vacuum leak (Fixed) Headlight low beam not working on one side (since fixed. Fuse) Oil cap hemorrhaging oil (Fixed) All exterior rubber seals badly perished Driveshaft coupling cracked and falling to bits (Fixed) Clutch bites at the floor and the clutch pedal is offset/twisted to the left (Fixed) Washer bottle sensor failed (Fixed. Sensor upside down) No ext. temp sensor connected Gearbox selector shaft seal leaking (Fixed) Hose clamps missing or loose on fuel lines under car (Fixed) Front LH tire losing pressure (Fixed) 20" wheels rub on all four guards (Also Fixed) Muffler hangers loose (Fixed) Throttle stop badly adjusted so no WOT (Fixed) Worn out and perished throttle cable (Fixed) Aux fan not working (Fixed, fuse) And there will no doubt be more things I discover as i go. In the meantime the car is mostly driveable, albeit leaking oil from the oil cap quicker than I can clean it off, and pumping the tire up each time I drive it. The plans are to fix all the above issues, starting with the wheels are are stupid and huge, and then finally getting around to doing some mods. I have also ordered a bunch of other parts already, including Vanos seals. Unfortunately the seller twisted the truth on the KM the donor car had on it, claiming the cluster fitted to the car was sourced from a friend and is from a different M3, and the original donor has about 80,000km less than the cluster (and the donors cluster was faulty so it was sold). INPA confirmed that the cluster is the one from the original donor.... so yeah. I'm looking at maybe fitting a pair of Recaro seats, as they are more comfortable than the Vaders, but need to look further into he mounts for the floor. The sound install in the boot will probably be coming out and standard boot linings/trim fitted. The subs sound average, likely due to settings on the amps, and i don't care enough to set them up properly. I also want to upgrade the suspension, but keep standard-ish height (due to my steep driveway). Thinking Koni shocks and either stock springs or H&R. Swaybars are apparently a good upgrade too, as are binning the original rubber bushes. This is the story of my 1996 BMW M328i In the meantime, here are some photos.

I can't make this stuff up, I really can't. I found out why the Vanos isn't working, and it's not what I was thinking... I have been messing around for the past few days trying to get INPA and DIS to work properly. I can get INPA to read everything but the DME (ECU), but I finally got DIS working today, and its reading the engine DME. This means I can finally read engine codes and see if there is anything obviously wrong. That's a yes then. This was the only code, thankfully. I had wondered about the TPS since the reading from live data in the VNC (Vanos Control unit) in INPA was weird, but the VNC didn't have codes for those sensors, only Vanos related ones (of which it had an old code for something random in German, which wasn't an active code). So what was weird? Well, the Throttle Position Sensor either read as below, with the engine off And didn't change when the throttle was opened, or did this when the engine was running (also note the two bars at the very top not reading anything) That reading looked familiar.... almost like it was reading engine position. I disconnected the plugs, and checked the wiring colours. This was the plug off the TPS And the Intake Cam Position Sensor These two live right next to each other, and have identical plugs. I check the wiring diagram, and sure enough the TPS colours were wrong. It should be Brown, Brown/Black and Red/Yellow And the CPS should be Yellow, Black and Shielded Brown So, what does that mean? Well, the two connectors had indeed been swapped. I swapped them over, connected them as they should be, and checked in INPA again. The TPS now read correctly, and I also noted that the two top bars now also had a reading, so suspect that's linked to the cam sensor. You can also see from the above photo, that the engine finally idles at the correct RPM now too. Obviously the engine thinking it was at WOT, but not moving, was causing the DME to keep the idle up. The result? Its picked up a lot of down low power, almost like the Vanos is now actually doing something. Funny that. Easy way to gain power, much easier than Type-R stickers or a pod filter. The exhaust sounds different too, I suspect this is down to the cam timing being correct now, instead of the inlet cam just sitting in one spot (or maybe even varying depending on throttle position!) With the idle also correct, unfortunately the misfire at idle is more obvious. Hopefully it's either Vanos, or something simple like spark plugs or coils. I'll check them out shortly. I can only presume this switch happened when the previous owner had everything unplugged to replace the head gasket. That was in 2016, so obviously it's been wrong for a while now, but confirms that I was right about the Vanos not working. It's still slower than my old M3, but hopefully rebuilding the Vanos can make that gap closer.

Kia ora guys, Just bought myself a new (well, new for me) 1999 328i (E46) for Christmas. She's definitely seen her fair share of the country sitting at 322k, but I must say she's in really good nick. No electrical problems at all! [that I've noticed] I used to have a '98 318ti E36 which blew a headgasket not too long ago. I know they're the cheap bmw of the family, but I loved the way it drove and was a major influence on me buying this one. Showing her age on the outside, missing badges and such that I'll replace, but under the hood she's very tidy. Well serviced and the previous owners cut me an awesome deal on it, being the festive season and all. That being said I'm planning a coolant system refresh soon as they couldn't tell me if it had been done and I'd rather the piece of mind. Anyway, just stopping by to say hello, and you may see me around on here with newbie questions and such if I can't find the answers myself. Thankfully, I've done a bit of lurking already and it seems there isn't much you folk don't know about these vehicles! Churr Final note, possibly a stupid question but she needs a new right front shock for the wof (current one's leaking). Is oem the best option or is there aftermarket options. Not looking for anything fancy, just want to get her on the road legally so I can really see what she's got.

First problem is going to VTNZ and having their failed, unreasonable and unrealistic mechanics inspect it. I would perhaps steam clean or brake clean the oil leaks on it. Maybe run some thicker oil (when does it smoke, under load, on over run, after sitting idle for a few minutes?). Maybe trade in on an E46 330i, E39 or E60 530i, depending what you require of a car. Its a bugger BMW have gone from some of the strongest engines from the 70s-80s and into the 1990s to the fragile crap they've put out over the past 15-20 years M Cars included.

Hi, Is anyone interested in buying my e28... Im moving into an apartment and I just dont have the space anymore for a spare car. Its mint, No rust, I am replacing the sunroof with a new one Ex germany, just had the front resprayed as it was clear faded. the 17 inch style 5's are in good nic, could used a prepsol polish, it has a good modern stereo with sub and amp in the boot. Car has Aircond, but needs regas Hoping for around $7,000? ***Alternatively if someone wants to give me a price to swap a M5X or S5X motor and box in I would look at keeping it, just sick of the constant niggles with the m20, i have a young kid and another on the way so no time anymore.

Hi Jacob, and welcome to Bimmersport! Not only have you bought the e46 (the best 3er IMHO), but you've also bought the best colour** too! Excellent idea to ensure the cooling system is in good order, quickest way to turn an M54 into a boat anchor is to neglect the cooling system. BMW Coolant *only* - it's reasonably priced from Winger BMW. - accept no substitutes. If you join BMW Car Club NZ you'll net 10% discount off of parts on production of your membership card. Re shocks, Sachs is your OEM part. You'll want to replace the fronts as a pair. There are other options like Bilstein Touring, or even Meyle, if you're after somthing that 'does the job' without going nuts on cost or performance. At 300+ kms you'll probably want to replace the strut bearing too, and some of the associated hardware/bushings etc. If you're in a hurry you might find Monroe or somesuch at Supercheap or REPCO. FCP Euro in the USA offer decent pricing and service, and you can expect your parts in a week or less at this time of year. what's my duty.org, xe.com, and realOEM.com*** are your 'friends' (great sources of info), if you start ordering online from abroad. I warmly suggest you subscribe to the Wellington Events Room in order to keep abreast of what's happening. There is a good variety of events in the Wellington region, from coffee meets, cruises, road trips, and of course the monthly Pub Night (first thursday of every month) organised by BMW Car Club NZ wellington crew (Bimmersporters always welcome). Next Pub Night is Thursday 3 January, do come along if you can make it. Hope that helps! Looking forward to seeing you at an event soon. And you should find plenty of help in the Bimmersport community! ** Disclosure: I've been running an Orientblau e46 325i Touring since 2012, including cooling system refresh, full suspension refresh, trans rebuild, braking system replacement, coils, other stuff I've forgotten, and general maintenance. *** this is linked to your VIN sourced from carjam based on your number plate. PS: cheap aftermarket badges are a false economy, delaminating quickly.

Cool car! With the shocks, I would probably recommend OEM for consistency?

excellent sussing, Kelvin. A big step forward!

I must have miss read your post sorry. Need all 4 the same have asked a number of WOF inspectors and all confirmed this

Love Boston coupes!

That's the one

You should keep the wheels

wow burberry boot cover! hahaha but in all seriousness, it actually does make a lot of sense for your intents and purposes. GL and looking forward to the progress!

Awesome, love the colour. Looking forward to following your progress.

I was looking at this as well, we passed by last month when I wasn't serious about it. The dealer said it was on the warehouse, etc. I will do my final inspection as car enthusiast before handing in the remaining balance for the car. I thought both issues are easily resolved by just stepping on the accelerator more? ?

E55 is pretty reliable and a sh*t load faster. They handle like a rudderless oil tanker though. Just fix your car and keep going for a few years.

Like this thread? just a screw through the housing? https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1518698-Spinning-ignition-lock-cylinder-tumbler-fix-WITHOUT-having-to-buy-any-new-parts

Just drill and grub screw it in place, have done a few with no issues

Selling the most reliable BMW V8 ever made and buying one of the most known problematic ones. Pay to play or just caught slipping? Sure its low k's but its probably been sitting in Japan traffic most of its life. K's are irrelevant in many aspects but so many people are so obsessed about the arbitrary figure. As for the question - Trade it in for whatever fits your criteria. It's easy to emotional when scorned but its only 1 bad car ending your love affair then i wouldn't say it was really love at all.

Impulsive buy, my 1M was intended to only be my Sunday drive but tempted by the Z3M the 1M has now become my daily so I now get best of both cars ...??

Hi guys, I brought the Z3M to keep my 1M company having recently sold my Audi’s, RR ur quattro and B5 RS4... I owned an older version of the Z3M in Blue before I brought the quattro. Looking forward to another Z3M ...