Leaderboard

buy the one i have for sale for $4k and has a 3L engine too

Forgot where he'd put engine and gearbox..!

^ Totally agreed. No matter which way you lean, the current political faces are vapid muppets. In other news, by chance drove past a place today by fluke, that by chance an agent was at. Deceased estate, another failed auction, nice area, massive garage(s)! and a big sections. Late 80s hardiplank/brick but high end of that style... building inspection is all thats standing in the way. Fingers crossed there are no gremlins hiding.

There are good people on both sides of politics. But this lot are just the worst bunch of shallow, vacuous phoneys who have no idea what they’re doing. It’s a real contrast to the Clark, Key and English premierships and the teams they were able to assemble around them.

Almost identical spec to mine - but no sport suspension... https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1980765964.htm?rsqid=c48a37003a314f84b4e5c3f291e16d8e or... you could have my one, with 170-odd more km's, and around half the price!

Very happy with the eBay lip spoiler I got for the 328. It was pre-painted and the colour match was fine, adheasive is still stong after 2 years. Wasn't expensive and I apprecaite the look.

well surely the dealer can be another"data point " if nothing else.

https://www.newstalkzb.co.nz/news/national/man-fails-to-get-90-000-maserati-refund-after-wrong-oil-wrecks-engine/

You could also try demon-tweeks over in the UK. https://www.demon-tweeks.com I've used them for some stuff and my brother has brought a suspension kit off them for his polo and they had really good shipping rates.

Recently it seems that it doesn't take much for people to get really upset around here... Answer to your first question (warranty) = don't risk it, do everything by the book and pay the price or be prepared to be disappointed. Second question (supplied parts) = it doesn't hurt to ask, I've been successful with supplying my own parts (by prior arrangement) with Bellars (North Shore), BM Workshop (Grey Lynn), Kayne Barrie (North Auckland) and a couple of other randoms. I've been turned down at every BMW dealer but that doesn't surprise me. As for advice, I tend to value it based on the amount of time the professionals are prepared to give - if I get a short or curt answer I assume it's BS, if somebody really spends the time to help me understand why something costs what it does (and it makes sense) then I value that highly. As a result I've spent thousands at each of those places I mention above and have zero regrets. Edit: it's fun to get a quote for a fitted part from a BMW dealer here in NZ then ask if they'll fit exactly the same part, brand new, if you supply it ex. BMW AG with the BMW label attached (for half the price). Watch them try and wriggle out of that one... they won't fold though, they just won't do it.

Pulled car apart, didn't see subframe damage. reassembled car. ?‍♂️

And this https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1980744336.htm?rsqid=0356f525690341afaad1a2a159ea5a01

Yes, have done similar a number of times. MR16 form and lots of supporting documentation. It helps if you can point out (without blame) how and where the error occurred. if successful a note is entered on the MVR linking the new VIN to the previous one I believe.

after some ms41 dme's from e36 dont care if they dont have ews modules or keys with them flick me a message if you have some

Their are a couple more to come I believe Olaf. No doubt both Foxton beach and Foxton will have gained something from it.

I formed a similar view when buying in the late 90's. Here's my list from the time when we went shopping: - Anything solid (1900-1980's) would need work on insulation. - Avoid Villas, no decent regs, frequently built direct on ground. Great timbers, but often gloomy. High-ceilings nice, but cost more to heat. (what was I thinking - power was cheap, then!). - Avoid 90's to new - No soffits, what are they thinking? Dodgy cladding, dropping standards in the building codes will cause issues in future. (boy was I right). - Avoid 80's - open plan and low thermal efficiency; declining materials quality. The cheap Mt St Helens cedar was nice, but will it last another 20 years? (I was wrong, it's lasting well). - Avoid 70's - frequently dodgy cladding products. A qualified 'proceed with caution'. - 50's & 60's - okay, good framing, good cladding. Solid materials, built well. - 40's: a bit gloomy, budget to eliminate concrete tiles (earthquake hazard), possibly butchered in the 60's/70's. Be prepared to remediate. - 20's & 30's. Excellent materials, generally sited for sun. Reasonable building regs at the time. Concrete piles. Old enough to have been re-wired, re-plumbed, re-gibbed. Downside: re-plumbing likely to have utilised Dux QEST. Probably bare-timber repainted, eliminating lead paint. - Pre 1920 - (Villas) avoid unless you're really keen to do a full rebuild, repile, the works. So we liked the style, bought in our (heavily biased) sweetspot of the NZ Californian Bungalow. Insulated and re-lined those rooms that hadn't had it done. All homes require constant maintenance; sadly kiwi homeowners seem to take the same approach to this as they do to their Euro cars! Today, I'd be looking at 40's to 80's as the sweet spot, and expecting to re-plumb and fully insulate, and double-glaze. YMMV.

the court in Auckland disagrees; thinking of that punter and his Maserati...

Seriously man, how do you get on with your dentist? Builder? Architect? Physiotherapist? Doctor? What happens when you go out to dinner; do you take the waiter/waitress to pieces if they recommend a dish or wine to you? ?

Been using and enjoying the car a few times recently. Trying hard to crack the 300,000km mark, which is about 300km away now. Its been good but some minor issues are cropping up. Turns out my heater (on the drivers side at least) is stuck on, so the cruise I took the other day, in the hot sun, meant it got pretty toasty inside. Guess like my last M3, the heater valve on this one has probably had it. My standard 3.0 M3 steering rack is rubbish. They're known for being slow and feel dead (and its a 3.0 M3 specific rack, good work BMW), and thats exactly what mine is. Slow, lots of turns lock to lock, and feels almost completely dead on center. Will keep an eye out for a purple tag E46, or Z3 rack, which is almost a direct swap and much better speed and feel. The latest fairly major issue though is that I have once again been hit my the common "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT - SEE OWNERS MANUAL" Check warning, indicating my brake light switch is on the way out, and when tested, I indeed had no brake lights at all. Lovely. Ill grab a new one of those shortly, so I can keep enjoying the car without being rear ended. I really need to clean the car, I havent touched it since it was driven down from Auckland by the previous owner. I feel bad.

New radiator and oil cooler in, lights back in and working. Had the motor running today, but it runs rough and is back firing. We have to figure out what that can be, any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers