*Glenn*

Talk to Joe @ Eurosurgeon in Penrose Auckland

Maybe a mod didn't think it complied to the new updated For Sale Rules ? http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/20961-for-sale-section-rules-updated-2016/ Add a photo that might prevent it being lost again

Did a Dealer / Independent Specialist do the PPI ??

I would agree as well. However, I would still check with them first and have it agreed upon in writing first. Arguing later will only financially disadvantage you

So sorry for you after all your hard work. My heart goes out to you and I give you credit for everything you have gone through and done. My hat goes of to you. The broken spring, I'm sure is the result rather than the cause

Was it cylinder 3 Nathan ??

My thoughts as well. Raise it and drive it on axle stands or a hoist. Check using a stethoscope

It would now cost more to carry out this repair. Shop around for prices from reputable repairers down your way

JATCO Jerk is a common fault. Either repair the auto or convert to manual

Retro Vehicle Enhancement, 88 Leonard Road Penrose Ph: 5820000

Thanks for the nice words Nathan..... and the beers glad it's all sorted now A stethoscope is a tool that every person who works on cars should have... cheap as chips too

Possibly top strut mount bearings. These are not sealed properly and can get contaminated by salt off the roads if your car is a jap import. Had this issue on a couple of E90's recently.... Give me a call Ben

Having breakfast by the beach watching the news on sky in the Mercedes out at Kuaotuna, Coromandel. Lovely morning here too

I'm not so sure it's fuel related by his explanation. The low fuel may just be a coincidence because he hadn't reached his normal fuel usage. I'd scan it first, then go chasing fuel pressure / flow

To do it yourself without help you will firstly need to go out and buy a professional scanner. Then get an apprenticeship in the automotive trade. Possibly after a couple of years you will then have the experience to use and read the scanner correctly and learn the repair procedures to carry out those repairs.. good luck PS: I don't have any vacancies at work ATM, however I can help you with your problem if you would like to ring and make a booking.

Thanks Geoff... and I agree with what you say

Where are you located ?

Autosure and their assessors ( who I know personally) are very aware of what is going on with these and if caught your warranty is void PS: Insurance fraud either by the repairer or owner of the car will have personal repercussions with insurance companies for the rest of your life. They have a register I'm told

I was drifting down there in the 70's in a '39 Ford V8 coupe & my mate had a Willys 4 door that we always tried to roll but we couldn't

Squib ring (clock spring) fault

You need to go out and test it now Dave...

There's probably quite a few on here that could help the OP with that

The problem with these late model alloy blocks is that they have little structural strength and the little they have does not like overheating. They often twist and damage the main bearings which lead to oil pressure loss and big end failure. If you ever strip one of these late model blocks they have brackets to support the sidewalls of the block to the main bearing caps. Guys using these late model engines for racing make up a cage that goes into the block followed by the sump

It's overdue for a service as well

You can't go cheap. The battery needs registering to the vehicle and to change amperage requires coding