Gaz

UK cars tend to be cheaper because the standard options list is smaller than on NZ new cars so make sure you are comparing apples with apples. EG have seen X5M50d without heads up display, G30s without front facing cameras etc

EBay UK. User Crmetch has alsortsof s50 parts

It was my mates car, Insurance write off due to chassis rail damage

There's two types of intake elbow, one if you have DSC and one without

Find the leak first, fix it then replace the coolant. Topping up with water will be fine until you sort it but if want to buy some local dealers will be open until 12 usually

People on Facebook who are selling something with the 'pm me for deetz' so you PM them as they requested but they don't reply. Why even bother putting an ad if you you're not gunna reply

I believe it was the Romans that said, I'm not gay but $20 is $20

Put an Active Terror 225i through it's paces a while back and aside for the torque steer under hard acceleration, alot of the way it handled felt like a RWD

I'll email and find out if there is any known issues. PM me your rego and i'll see if there are any recalls

There was update to the website and process last night. PS - its not a recall checker but registers your vehicle for someone to check it and then contact you about any recalls on the car

Still available from dealers for around $140

Where does a 318is fit into all of this? Customer of mine is flirting with the idea of selling it, NZ New 100kms and immaculate condition. I suggested around the 20k mark but interested to hear others opinions

Never assume anything, will end up costing you more time, money and hassle. Get a smoke tester and check the intake system for leaks

Not overally common for them to drink oil, more so with the 4/8 cylinders. Map your usage over time to get a handle on how much it is using. Eg - do an oil change and once the add 1 litre warning comes on, note how many KM's you have done. Repeat a couple of times to get an average. Correct oil can also make a difference. That limit is typically for M cars, if you are doing that then typically have valve stem seal issues but again, dont see that too often

Soon hopefully, but I've got one of those flat-peaked cap wearing ones so who knows

Idrive? If not, engine on, and use the flicker switch and BC button to go to the reset option, and press and hold. It will then re-calibrate as you drive off. Youtube is handy for this

These dont have TPS, instead use the wheel speed sensors to detect the rolling diameter. Set your tyre pressure, reset the system and you will be ok. It will only detect loss of pressure in relation to the other wheel and not once it drops below a certain pressure. If you ever top up the pressure or change it, you need to reset the system

I paid 10k for mine facelift 325 auto about 3 odd years ago. Now has tech 2 kit, alpina boot spoiler and manual and IF I'd sell it, would want north of 20. I do need sort out the seats however

Had a few customers who used to daily them, can't be that bad to do 150,000km in

There are around 25 criteria for the car to meet before it will turn off but low battery charge is one of them. Most people are thankful it doesn't work so embrace it haha

Dont use your brakes, problem solved

Love a good Lee-on Brouche goes perfect with fixing rusty BMWs

Very rare and hard to find, I think r56 was the last diesel mini BMW NZ brought into NZ but I could be wrong

Scroll through the menu to find out why, could be WOF reminder or stat emissions testing reminder if yours is an import. If it is either of those hold the BC button down and then change it as desired. If it's engine oil, brake fluid or otherwise then via the cluster

You don't know pay for the labour, you pay for the knowledge and the investment in the software to be able to carry out the programming. What needs programming? Genuine keys come coded ready to go unless the vehicle has comfort access