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Everything posted by hotwire
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So, can we convince Mike to change allegiances yet....
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Yep, brilliant game today. Another top 7 hrs of cricket & we may get to that elusive final...
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^^^^^Gold! Still off topic - yep vinyl is still the best medium for true music reproduction (though certainly not as versatile as digital media) & IS making a comeback.
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Without wanting to drag on with the ex UK rust thing. As Dave alludes to earlier. It is horses for courses thing. Some vehicles probably don't see the salt due to hybination, others may come from areas that roads are not salted. As with Japan - I have seen many vehicles (4WD's particularly) that are ex Japan & are rusty underfloor on bolts,suspension components etc, even seat mounting bolts. Vehicles that have obviously come from northern Japan (having a dual battery setup for cold climate) where the roads are salted. There is no doubt - if a vehicle is continually subjected to salt - it will corrode. Doesn't mean ALL cars are going to be subjected to this.
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^^^^^ Yep, as above. Requires a decent sharp impact. I have always done it this way = plenty of BMW's & other Euros with the same setup over the years. Some do get tight but i haven't been caught out yet. Maybe just lucky. Just did the water pump on the E39 a few weeks back. Fan had never been off but was one of the easy ones. I do hear what you are saying though Andy, would certainly stand to do damage if thumping it, and repeatedly.
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Instrument Cluster Needle gauges removal tool. Anybody has one?
hotwire replied to dkonsta1's topic in Electrical system
Robinsons know their stuff, years ago because they weren't able to at the time, I sent my cluster to the states for pixel repair, I then linked them to the repairer for the process. They have been doing them since. -
I have a very reliable source in Europe for them. Early on I used random sellers & got burnt a few times with either faulty units or sh*t packaging/drop kicked around the world & arriving damaged.
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Yes, done heaps. My car was the first in the country to be done. One out, one in, but needs wiring mods. Don't have a unit on hand though. Do have the wiring plugs & map disc.
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Well, looks like you are stabbing in the dark somewhat. Get a sparky to check it. Will be a whole 5 min job at most to diagnose
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Battery connections? Jump starting will mask that. As alluded to - make CERTAIN the battery is good. DIN 55 is the correct battery for it
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Wore out a new set of Bendix pads (down to metal) on the rear of the race car in 4 stints @ Hamptons last month - practice, quali, & two races, probably 40 laps total. Brand new rotors too. They made a hell of a mess on the wheels. Normally use OEM on the rears & last about a season. Back to OEM I go.
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Nice cars but just make sure you have a fat cheque book for maintainence / repair costs. So many people spend all they have on a complex car without having the means to be able to maintain.
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^^^^^^ That is different trim to what he is talking of Allan. Having to buy the whole trim is bullshit. I would also bet the trim comes without the clips too. Took me about 3 minutes to find the clips & part number of: 51471840960
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Might have to change allegiances now huh Mike
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Adding to, I would say that probably heat is all that is required to remove the dent. That said - right amount, right place & technique - which a skilled plastic welder will know...
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That damage looks very minor & should be easily repaired. As Allan has alluded to - find a Plastic Welder in your area. That damage is not a Panel Beaters job. We have a brilliant Plastic Welder here in TA - he gets plenty of MUCH more damaged bumpers than that & repairs them without trace.
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Hopefully might be historic - radiator /cooling system not flushed properly after the last failure. Flush it out properly then recheck. Do a leak down test on the engine if problem persists. If required - they are a straight forward engine to remove the head.
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Not the monitor - that is generic to all markets. The Jap Nav unit in the boot i mean - that is what holds the OS...
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Another thread you were asking on OS upgrade. As I suspected, from above pic, it has a Jap Nav unit in it still. You cannot update the OS in that. Bin it & convert to Euro spec. Monitor flickering - may just be a glitch. I have seen them do strange things on odd occasions without being a continual issue.Also, as Charles says - it is a 16:9
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As I read it - you say your system is Jap, if so - no you cannot update it with Mk3 spec OS
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M20's can be a bitch to bleed. There should be a bleed screw (8mm head) on top of the thermostat housing. Loosen this, I find the easiest way is to 2/3 (aprox) fill the system, heater on hot, & run until the thermostat opens. Gradually top up until air is out. Shut off bleed screw. Tappets, yep they are clacky when loose. Yes they have a well designed adjustment system that is very easy to do.
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I have wired a few E46's with relays. Never seen an issue with LCM. For tail light (due to low voltage control) I simply connect to licence plate lamp circuit which is 12v