will

Really?

I used the hardrace lower control arm bushes in mine as the standard ones definitely restricted the space available for the exhaust downpipes. It is very tight under there... I would definitely recommend larger front brakes as, when I had mine first running, I had not yet done the brakes (was having the adaptor brackets made) and the standard e30 325 setup was hopelessly inadequate with all the extra mass/power.

what condition is the shell in?

getting there.. Test that pin 86 on the main relay gets a +12V supply when the ignition is switched on (should be a green wire.) Also check that pin 85 has a permanent ground. If both of these tests check OK, it is likely your main relay is fubar. If you don't get a switched +12V on pin 86, you will need to find out why. First thing would be to check that the ignition switch has a 12V output on the green wire with the ignition on. If you have an OBC with an immobiliser function, that could be the problem as it cuts the green wire supply to the main relay.

Ok, if it shows continuity while cranking, then your issue is not with your ECU, rather with your pump circuit. Do the following tests.. 1. Switch on the ignition and test that BOTH pins 87-87 of the main relay are outputting +12V. Do a load test with a 21w globe to verify that both outputs are providing the necessary amps. 2. If the above test shows power/amps from both 87-87 outputs, you then need to verify that you have power/amps on pins 86 and 30 on the FPR socket. pin 86 is switched power from the main relay and pin 30 is a permanent live directly from the battery. If both above tests check OK, combined with you already verifying that pin 85 on the FPR socket shows continuity to ground while cranking, your fuel pumps should fire up. If test 1 above shows an issue with the 12V outputs on pins 87-87, remove the main relay and bridge pins 87-87-30 on the socket, then crank the engine with the FPR in place and see if the pumps fire up. If the above test fails to fire up the pumps, you have an issue with the supply circuit to the pumps, and/or the pump/s are faulty. Just to clarify, the pump in the tank is purely a lift pump designed to prime the main pump which is above the rear axle. It is that external pump that provides the fuel at pressure/volume to run the engine, so it is essential this pump is running and providing the correct fuel pressure and sufficient volume of fuel. Let me know what results you get with the above tests.

You need to test between pin 85 of the fuel pump relay socket (with relay removed) and ground, not 85 and 86 of the FPR socket. Multimeter to be set to continuity/resistance test. It should show continuity when cranking and open circuit when not. You can confirm the connection between the ECU and the FPR by unplugging both, then do a continuity test between pin 20 of the ECU socket and pin 85 of the FPR socket. You can further confirm the FPR switching circuit is functioning using this procedure.. 1. unplug ECU from socket. 2. Leave FPR plugged into it's socket. 3. switch on ignition, check that main relay has energised by testing for +12V at both pins 87-87. 4. ground pin 20 on the ECU plug- the FPR should latch and switch on the fuel pump. The FPR switching circuit is a safety feature. It is designed to turn the fuel pump off if the motor stops running, specifically if you have an accident like rolling the vehicle and ending up on your roof. If the fuel pump keeps running, it would likely cause fuel to pour out and cause a fire. You could bypass the safety feature by simply wiring pin 85 of the FPR to ground. The main relay will control the switching of the FPR, meaning the pump will run with the ignition on, and switch off with ignition off.

Normally you will not get a spark if the speed sensor is faulty. You will need a scope to read it. You can do a basic check by measuring it's resistance at the ECU plug. Did you test if the ECU is switching(grounding) pin85 on the fuel pump relay?

e34 loom is probably easier as the ECU is on the same side as the e30, e36 the ECU is over on the passenger side and has to be completely re-jigged to get the ECU over to the driver's side. You can install the ECU in the battery tray area using a sealed box, but is probably much better to get the ECU into the cabin where the e30 ECU normally sits. I have not used an e34 loom, but have used an e32 loom to fit a M60 in one of my e30's, it still requires quite a bit of work to make it go inside the cabin as the e32/34 have the ECU in the engine bay. You will probably be cutting all the auto wiring off as well... I have done a few e36 looms(M52B28 conversion), as stated they need to be 'inverted' to get into the cabin on the driver's side and also will probably need to have the auto wiring removed unless you have a manual loom handy.. Pic from my m60-e30 conversion wiring just to inspire you...

Have you tested the relay itself? i.e. remove relay from socket, put +12v on pin 86, ground on pin 85 -- it should latch. When latched, it should show continuity through pins 87-30. You should also test the load ability of the relay by connecting an indicator globe (21W) in series from the battery across pins 87-30, latch the relay via 85-86 and make sure the globe burns full brightness. The reason for this is to make sure the contacts are latching properly. Just testing with a meter does not guarantee it is working under load, it might just be making enough contact to indicate on the multimeter, but will break down when a load (such as the fuel pump) is applied. If the relay checks out as working, connect a multimeter between pin 85 of the relay socket (without reinstalling the relay) and ground, set multimeter to check continuity, then crank the motor and check if the meter shows continuity between pin 85 and ground. If you get continuity, the ECU is switching, if not, there is an issue with either the lead between the ECU and the relay, the signal from the crank speed sensor, or the ECU itself (or a combination of them). Test and report back..

You will need 2 hoops. One just behind the guibo and the other behind the centre hanger bearing/universal. Efn ridiculous IMO !! Just some knuckle dragging pen pushing ignoramus in a non-essential government office making efn ridiculous rules. Culling is required....

^ this

I am out Raglan way, can also help if necessary.

With the bleed nipple in that position, you will struggle to get the air out. Reverse bleeding is one way to do it but it ideally needs the line in to be at the highest point so the air goes up it, otherwise you will still not free the air trapped inside. The other way is to remove the cylinder from the box, secure the piston so it cant pop out, then bleed it with the nipple facing up, this way you can be sure you will get rid of all the air. My way is to use a long bleed pipe from the nipple back to the reservoir, that way you dont have to worry about topping up, you simply keep pumping until you are absolutely sure the air is gone, then re-secure the cylinder on the box, nip up the bleed nipple and remove the bleed line first from the reservoir, then from the nipple. Have a bottle ready to catch the fluid draining from the pipe. If you leave the pipe in the reservoir when removing it from the bleed nipple, you will end up syphoning fluid from the reservoir.

I assume the kit came with a new throwout bearing? If so, it should be the correct height. Do not change it for one with a higher profile as you could then end up with a bearing that is under constant load. You need to confirm with them that the kit supplied suits the 6 speed box without any mods. The hydraulic system can be a real b *tch to bleed. When you push the pedal down, how much free travel does it have before it loads up? Check this carefully using your hand, not your foot, as using your hand produces a better feel for determining how far the pedal travels before the bearing contacts the pressure plate bearing surface. The other thing that can go wrong is the lever that the bearing sits in comes adrift from the pivot, or the pivot is damaged, resulting in increased travel before it contacts with the pressure plate. My money is on the hydraulic system still having air in it...

You essentially need all the bits off an M40 1.8 motor (wiring loom, ECU, injectors, AFM etc..) to make this work without too much hunting for bits like a custom ECU, MAF etc. Mounting the CPS should not be much of a problem even if the mounting point you refer to is not there. Mounting the bits like TPS, throttle body etc involves quite a bit of fabrication. It would definitely be a far easier exercise to drop in a M40 with 'box ( the m10 'box will not bolt up properly to the m40), but not half as much fun to do/get the m10 working with motronic electronics though.. I have not personally done this conversion, but I know how it has been done by others, and don't consider it to be too difficult to do if you have reasonable spanner, electrical and fabrication skills. You don't need to use the front mounted dizzy, the m10 one is utilised purely as a 'distributor' of the spark, all the electrical internals are abandoned and the vacuum/centrifugal timing is locked. You just need to ensure that it is timed so that the rotor is facing the correct pin in the cap when the motronic fires the spark. You can also utilise a wasted spark system and ditch the distributor altogether, or use a m42 ECU with individual coils and other associated wiring and hardware... too many options...

A conversion like this requires a cert even if it is using all OEM parts unfortunately due to the power increase and the fact that the motor is totally different to the original motor (and a few other things..). Getting a WOF will not be a problem as the WOF officer's task is to make sure it is roadworthy and with no modified parts like mountings, suspension etc. They do not care if the motor suddenly has 2 more cylinders..Much like they will not fail you for having illegal numberplates as they do not affect roadworthiness. If you have an accident the insurer is very unlikely to pay out, and, if stopped in a police checkpoint, you will stickered if they realise you have 6 cylinders instead of four. When I did my m52 conversion in my 325 many years ago now, I got a WOF as everything looked/was OEM. My cert guy told me to do this before I brought it to him as then he would know if there were any issues apart from the conversion. Made his job much easier and cheaper as he did not have to go through the car with a fine toothcomb checking every component.

4 and 2door are the same, just the separate bit at the rear up to the seat is different. His sig is of his old car, now has a lessdoor...

I have a timing light with all the necessary, but am too far away and would have to fight off the multitude of spiders that have made home in the dark beyond of my unused equipment cupboard.... in any case, I would just set the timing by ear, advance it till you get pinking and then back it off till you get no more pinking under load in 4th/5th (your choice). Make sure the vacuum and centrifugal advance/retard systems are all functioning properly before doing the timing-lube the mechanical one while you are at it. The standard timing setting is quite conservative, takes into account the crappy fuels that were available back then- you can get a far better result with more advance and better fuel (95 etc).

Head/block cracks will often not show up under standard testing - they only start leaking when the engine gets hot and under pressure. The one sure fire way to find most of these minor leaks is to use a fluro dye in the coolant, take it for a hard run and then use a UV light around the outside and in the rocker area to detect the presence of the dye leaking out. Cracks in the internal combustion area are more difficult to determine, but usually they will leave traces on the spark plugs.. but you need to be experienced in reading plugs to detect small coolant leaks into the combustion area. Standard pressure testing often does not detect these small leaks as the pressure used is insufficient to push fluid out of the crack. Testing the coolant for the presence of exhaust gases is another way of determining if the crack is between the combustion/coolant areas. A leak-down cylinder test will also sometimes show up a leak as the pressures used in the test are far higher than the standard cooling system test pressures. You will get a pressure build up in the cooling system which can be detected by a pressure gauge installed in the cooling system. You might also get an audible hiss inside the system. An easy way to check if your radiator is partially blocked is to use a non-contact infra-red thermometer. Get the engine up to operating temperature and then aim the device at various spots across the face of the radiator (back and front) and note the readings, compare these to readings obtained off the lower and upper hoses. For a radiator to function effectively, it should have reasonably even temperatures across the face at the same horizontal level (assuming vertical tubes) with temperatures hot at the inlet side in line with the hose temp, and cooler at the outlet in line with the outlet hose temp.

If they do not bolt up into the OEM fixing points without any mods (adaptor plates etc.), they will need to be certified. Seat belt stalks might be another issue as the e30 ones are static fixings, these will be dynamic and mounting points might not work for the e30 ones.

This of any use?

New home for the V12..??

Bridging out the pins on the selector plug is a bodge. All you are doing is permanently energising a relay which will be a weak point ready to fail and leave you stranded sometime in the future... Like the e30, the e28 has a separate auto loom that plugs into the main loom. You need to get in behind the dash and disconnect the auto loom from the main loom and reconnect the starter wire circuit. Look for the black/yellow wire from the ignition switch, find the plugs where it is re-routed through the inhibitor circuit, unplug it from this loom and reconnect it to itself. I personally would strip the whole auto loom out of the car, bit of work in that you have to lift the carpet/seat, but worth it to be rid of unnecessary wiring that could cause issues somewhere down the line.

I dont believe the engine would run with the flywheel 1 bolt hole out... simple maths tells me that the timing would be retarded or advanced by 45 degrees if you had done this. However, you can easily check where it is firing. Put some basic timing marks on the crank pulley i.e. BTDC 20-15-10-5--0 (TDC)- 5-10-15-20 ATDC with a suitable reference pointer to locate them, and then use a timing light to check where it is firing in relation to TDC when idling. Is it a regular misfire? If you short out a particular plug, is there no difference? Or is it a totally random misfire, so shorting out any particular plug will give a noticeable misfire? Anyway, I would check the resistance of both sensors at the ECU plug, NOT at the sensor plugs! You should get around 540 ohms on both.

Drill a 3mm hole in the thermostat outer ring at the top. Also, make sure the thermostat is installed the correct way up. (There is normally an arrow indicating up..) The hole will assist air to escape into the radiator area where it will easily bleed off. Thermostats used to come with this hole, not sure why some don't..?? This small hole will not affect the overall performance of the system. Loosen off the hose clamp on the small upper heater pipe and wiggle it around to release air. Clamp it up when you get only water escaping, then continue bleeding in the same manner around the motor if you think there is still air in other small diameter pipes. Normally, clearing trapped air from the heater upper pipe will sort it out though. As Troy says, jacking up the front of the car will help bleeding stubborn systems. Also, don't forget to put the heater on full hot when bleeding..