M3AN

You're getting worked up over nothing Glenn, the red mist is causing you to see things that don't exist. Relax. I've just read back, the only advice you've offered (except "call me") is: Which I've agreed with from the beginning, in fact I stated that before you chimed in. And a 13.8v power supply with sufficient amps will do exactly that (and some consumer chargers may do that, mine will not). So, we're all left not knowing what you actually recommend unless you're suggesting you need a $2000 device to flash when most people get away with spending a fraction of that. If so, go ahead and state that explicitly. You're fabricating an arguement that doesn't exist... I've agreed with everything salient you've said so far... Now, if you have specific knowledge that 20A isn't sufficient as a support supply, even though the OP only asked for 10A, then do share it, that might actually be helpful. I'd certainly be interested.

Yeah, I had that in mind even though we were talking about DIY... nevertheless, even for DIY I'd love the unit in his pic, that looks like the bee's knees (~AU$1700+GST!). My car battery charger wouldn't be suitable for flashing because once it senses the battery is full it drops down to a mA trickle charge and will not step back up to charge mode without manual intervention. This might not be a limitation for all consumer chargers but I'd want to check that before using a (consumer) charger. (I think this is actually the most important consideration to come out of this discussion.) I would however be happy to use my 13.8v 20A "dumb" power supply because, as I said before, I'm not convinced you'd need more than 20A for battery support for a flashing procedure if your battery is good to start with. I don't even think cranking would require an immediate 20A injection (support -> battery) and there's no way flashing will require as much current as cranking. But yeah, if you're doing it yourself then you carry the risk... and if I were doing it for somebody else I'd want to be super-duper safe. It all comes to naught if you have a power cut during the procedure... so perhaps you need a battery backup for your charger too...

All my 'giveaway' ones have been binned sorry. I do have a 'spare' 3 spoke without slip ring or airbag you can borrow if you just need something temporary to turn the wheels.

I'm not going to read the manual - if you have a point to make from the manual then go for it, I may learn something. If you're arguing that you need a multi-hundred dollar, purpose built, 100A power supply to do what's being discussed then I'm not convinced. And that's the only point of disagreement I can see here, I've agreed with you on everything else. ?‍♂️

That's exactly what I said...

I've never been in doubt that there are differences between what you've used and a basic power supply Glenn. I am sceptical about the minimum requirements to perform some of the tasks described in this thread. You need to start with a good battery and if you do then it'll supply all the power you need, the charger/power supply is to stop the voltage dropping to an unacceptable level, you shouldn't need more than 8A for that (with a good battery). As I said above, it is better to err on the safe side and if you have purpose built, professional equipment then all the better! That does look like a good unit, I'd very much like one of those but I suspect they're hella-expensive! No worries @Dom. learning is a journey.

Interesting text, says a charger is not suitable then recommends using a charger lol. Possibly a poor translation to English so overlooking that it makes sense. I'm pretty confident 30A is way overkill but can't be 100% - I'd be interested in the size of the various fuses in the relates circuits and would be surprised if they're 30A. However, certainly it's preferable to err on the safe side. Either way your battery sounds shot. Before replacing it determine if your alternator is working properly (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGB6ZEjGm7Q).

Fifty amps? I can't imagine any circuit being used comes anywhere close to that. Sounds like it's just an idiot-proof recommendation for those that try and start the car during the procedure... but then the battery would supply that power in the first instance anyway. All good though. ?

Your observations are correct @hugo_nz and no, there's no valid reason for it. It's monopoly price gouging, shop abroad, they don't deserve our money locally (unfortunately). And adding GST to sub $400 packages come October is going to make no difference.

Heaps of them on Trademe... and you can borrow mine if you still need one.

I think I've thrown them all out, let me look this afternoon when I'm back home.

TBH I've never used a 'diagnostic charger' and I don't know the technicalities of them but for simply providing reliable power any power supply worth its salt will provide constant, regulated voltage... as long as it can provide the required voltage and more amps than you need I don't see why that wouldn't work? Just don't leave it hooked up overnight lol. Up to you Dom if you want to try my power supply 13.8v 20A.

Welcome Chris but terrible choice of vehicle as I'm sure you're aware by now. I'm happy to do you a favour and fly down to rid you of such a nuisance!

10 amps??? What size battery do you have? I have an 8A car battery charger and a 10A multi-purpose charger running off a 20A (13.8v) bench power supply if any of that interests? To be honest I'd think 8A would be fine but a proper charger will drop the current when the battery is near capacity anyway (right down to below 1A) and most will not automatically wake from trickle mode (which will be triggered if the battery is fully charged). That's where the power supply might be useful, it'll provide continuous power regardless of battery level. Without knowing why you need 10A though I can't make a firmer recommendation.

They're exactly $3.06+GST each from BMW NZ, I just picked some up. You can't use a rubber washer, no. As it turns out I have 2 new spares - 32411093597 (A16X22-CUSN) that I don't need if you want to buy them off me (at cost - $7) instead of BMW. I can show you the BMW invoice, I'm in Ellerslie.

Is it necessary/wise to ask why a vehicle has been re-registered or are there lots of innocent reasons? I'm assuming that if it was previously bent beyond economical repair or pulled from the bottom of a lake the buyer should be entitled to the privilege of that info. Is that a fair assumption? Or is it just caveat emptor?

Very good point from @B.M.W Ltd there - something I was warned about when I put a fully aluminium radiator in but had since forgotten. Don't offer it up as a possible explanation though.

Since you have a line of communication put the onus on them to theorise... because it would have cost them less to replace it already. Ask them what might cause this "corrosion" in 18 months if only distilled water and wetter was used... see what they say and whether they blame you (explicitly).

Having ignorantly purchased a LHD refresh kit for the power steering it ended up costing me nothing but a little of my time. FCP Euro took back the LHD parts, refunded me and even paid for return shipping, how good is that! Because the crush washers went back with the lines I had to get them locally and BMW NZ charges over $3 each which is criminal. I should have ordered them from abroad and waited. Nevertheless, it all went in on the weekend so now I have a fresh power steering system (including rack) to add to all the other maintenance items - at this rate it's getting more love than the M3 at the moment... totally replaced interior (abandoned M3 project + used from Zebra) totally replaced suspension w/M3 inc. used struts, springs and bars w/all new mounts, bushes and links entirely new cooling system rad, pump, therm, hoses etc. (new OEM + alu rad) aftermarket wheels and new tyres (17's forged BBS RGR + cheap Pirellis) replaced steering rack, reservoir, hoses, bolts, washers and fluid Alignment today and it drives straight again! That was a bit of practice for when I come to put the Z3 rack in the M3 sometime soon...

Super mega fugly.

To be honest I'm not sure what's the best to get but you should be able to get one that supports both the E60 and E46 and I hazard that a basic one will cost less than 100 bucks (I stand to be corrected). Perhaps have a search around this site, I'm sure it will have been discussed recently.

A problem with coils/plugs could manifest only when hot due to thermal expansion. You can check those manually without a code scanner (see Google) but I tend to agree with Gaz, a scanner is a very worthy investment.

No, very warm!

I always check both Schmiedmann and FCP Euro - I find FCP have much better shipping costs for larger/heavier items.

I think it's a very decent price and I'd love to see somebody on here pick it up and run with it...