M3AN

TBH I don't think it was any/much tighter than the other two of the same type. It's just that access was too limited to put a proper tool in there and once anything was in, there simply wasn't enough space to move it. I literally had about 2mm of space to move the tiny 8mm spanner I ended up using - had the head of the bolt been rotated even another 15* I don't think I would have been able to seat the spanner at all. But the 2mm I did have was amplified (to about 10mm) with the extension and that was just enough. I used a small 1/4" ratchet to break the other two free no trouble. Getting it back on and torqued (lol) will be interesting. Yes, I'm discovering this seems to be a law of mechanical engineering.

Sleeper. Nice.

Cheers bro. I somehow think it was more visceral and satisfying than solving an EWS problem! I am starting to understand why some of the quotes I got (for interest sake only) were north of $700.

? Wow.

Yeah, me too. Watched a guy set the pressure on the tyre pump to 52 PSI the other day... for a 90's Corolla on 14's... suggested about 15 PSI lower might help his tyres last longer.

2 hours today to get the final sump bolt out... ?

Got the bitch. Took another 2 hours and a visit to the local engineering shop. Got the guys to chop the end off a sacrificial 8mm 12 point spanner (it's an external Torx (six point) bolt - 6x2=12) and chop up a piece of steel tube and crimp the end for a tight fit. It was my last idea really. Only had about 1 degree of rotation to crack it but after a few tries I heard that reassuring break. Still took another 10 mins to wind it out, used a tiny ratchet to do that 1 click at a time...

That's exactly what I was thinking.

I suspect they're still there but the location has changed... This no longer works: http://bimmersport.co.nz/uploads/post-1129-1161802025.jpg This still works: http://bimmersport.co.nz/uploads/monthly_05_2007/post-1129-1178478841.jpg Both links are from this thread. Clearly somebody didn't run the right migration scripts when they upgraded (another reason to test properly). The scripts may still be able to be run but you'll need to get hold of an Admin for that.

Ugh, still working through this. Subframe is still on and loose and I don't see that budging any time soon. Working around that I have all but 1 pan bolt undone. Three of them took me a good hour because of access (or lack thereof) but this final one, the upper ET10 bolt through the transmission, has had 2 hours thrown at it with no progress. Access is poor but achievable, leverage on the other hand is not. I can't get anything long enough in there to get the torque required to crack it and there's not enough clearance around the head to get a proper rachet in there... sprayed it, will try again tomorrow. New (pre-loved) sump is on the way (thanks @BimmerShaun) so hoping to get this one out as that one arrive. That gives me a day or so. The joys!

Forgive the ignorance but where's the "paint"?

Boiling water and a mallet it is then!

Yep, they're the ones, didn't realise that so thanks. I don't have a high enough heat source I'm afraid so I'll have to try something different... options include: 1. try them again tomorrow with a steel mallet, have sprayed them so might work. 2. disconnect the FCA's from the hub, difficult as they're free now and move around. 3. work around the subframe. 4. Disconnect the steering arms and drop both front shocks right out. It'll probably be 1 and/or 3, 2 might be difficult and 4 is just extra work. It all depends on how easily I can navigate around it all sitting in there. The subframe is low enough for sure, just working around it makes things more time consuming.

Yeah, if you can drop the requirement for a manual then you'll have a world of possibilities. Otherwise, no so much.

Dropped the front subframe out of the 328 today...

Dropped the front subframe today to get at the oil pan, a couple of issues I'll need to work through tomorrow: 1. Can't detach the control arms from the subframe, nuts are off but the bolts won't slide through. I've sprayed them with lube and will check again tomorrow if they come out. It's not essential to get them out I can just hang the subframe down and work around it but it would be easier with it out entirely. 2. Some of the sump bolts are really difficult to get to and I'll need to be creative to get to at least two of them... not sure how yet, ran out of light.

All pics and links finally updated. No thanks to Photobucket or Dropbox!

The airbags will smash the windscreen. Ask me how I know. And a windscreen won't stop an unrestrained adult body.

That's not a head-on, it's side impact for sure.

I have a few welders available to purchase. Do you care particularly about race, or perhaps more specifically language comprehension? I'm deeply discounting eastern european welders at the moment due to oversupply. No English. 14 week delivery via high seas. 50% up front.

Yep, missed a beat there didn't I @aja540i I'd certainly pick the M5 over the C63 every day of the year but there's no denying Audi got the Avante right. The RS4 is also quite a bit closer in size to the E46 than the M5 is.

I was just talking to somebody about this very car the other day, including value. It's hard to price but I don't think it's worth $45k. To be sure it's a special vehicle and by all accounts it's been done properly but I think HellBM sold it for much less than $45k and it can't possibly be worth $20k more than a coupe. It might have cost more than that to build when you factor in the donors and labour but cost, value and worth are all different things. I don't think the mods the owner has added amount to a significant increase in value. I'd say $35k which is a $10k premium on a coupe but the market will be very, very limited so it's going to be a slow sell. If you want to sell it quickly you can't ask for more than a good condition coupe which will ultimately be the better vehicle. If you really want a touring and have $45k to blow, you're probably better off looking at an RS4.

Surely that's an oxymoron? ? GLWS, perfect colour!

Got under the 328 today to start taking it apart to replace the sump. What a PITA job getting access, lots has to come out to drop the subframe and even then access to some of the oil pan bolts is difficult. Really very messy too! Got as far as I could without an engine support brace which I'm hoping to pick up on the weekend. Still can't work out if I need to re/move the power steering pump, there are conflicting opinions and some even go so far as to drain the fluid and disconnect the lines. The BMW official procedure doesn't require this but they lift the engine a couple of inches which I can't do. Let me know if you know for a fact what's required.

Real OEM lists same part for 535 and up... maybe you can pick some up without ///M tax? $225 OMFG!