Allanw

My mates 540i does it a bit too - I think it's so it doesn't feel like the auto from a Nissan Pulsar that lurches and clangs from gear to gear just because you eased of the gas a bit. If you want to accelerate again, it's still in the correct gear, instead of having to reshuffle everything again.

You sure it's not from the power steering? VERY common!

I've probably spent $3 or 4K with him (actually... maybe more! I best not add it up!!!). Absolutely NO issues whatsoever - I know him from another forum, and I'm sure he'll make things right if there was a genuine problem. I've probably been buying from him for 2 years, for Dads e30, before I even got the E39. I've just had an order arrive at my parents, mix of genuine and aftermarket stuff, even several BMW only things. I'm probably his biggest pain in the arse regular customer, but he's always SUPER helpful. Be aware, he can get almost ANYTHING you want too, not just his trademe stuff - he's got me some odd parts, like washer bottle caps, electrical connectors, OEM sachs shocks, bushes, suspension arms, genuine diamond RF key, precut door lock/handle, e30 Bonnet foam, anything Charges realistic frieght (actually - often ridiculously cheap, considering it'sfrom the South Island!) He gets my genuine BMW bits for me too - they're cheaper and easier to get than from the dealer (the ones I've tried anyway). Genuine key was just over $100 less than the dealer. Never met him in person, but I'd trust him implicitly. The trademe feedback is a pretty good indication - even the best traders can get an idiot who gives bad feedback for a stupid reason, and he doesn't even have that. He does have a website www.milland.co.nz and you can email or call him direct.

I find it just a bit ironic that people use VW Golf boosters in E30's, when the VW van folks use E30 boosters in T3 Transporters

I drove mine. Does that count? I do have a LARGE box of BMW parts at my parents place from Milland... but they are mostly for Dads E30. although he's telling mum that they are mostly for me

I got mine from ebay uk - can't do links - no ebay at work! Seller was strutbracer I think - was quite cheap compared to other places. I mostly liked the idea of not having to press them in, although the front lower arm bushes needed a "adjustment" to fit anyway - they are too large diamterter on the outer flange, so I machined them down, but some just trim them with a craft knife or hacksaw. Car doesn't feel overly harsh, not really any different, otherthan the whhels seem to go where you point them (old bushes were originals with 120K on them).

Haha! Congrats! Funny how much more careful you are - I was the same! Well done!

Agreed... if they "look" fine, then they could be an ANY condition. Mine looked fine, no cracks or distortion, but were the originals and were rooted - I fitted powerflex, and the car is a different car. (mine is a bit different being a 6 cylinder, but similar issues - only ever shimmied at 80ish and only ever under light brakes) If you're pulling apart the front end, just do the lot.

Deffo keep both... then get a red sedan, an M3 an a touring... Awesome!!!

The Autos are a weak spot - manuals are nice :-) Even in the 4 cyls, the auto aren't amazing, but are OK. MK3 golfs are similar technology to E30s. Godd solid cars though, just get a 4cyl, or a manual.

E30 M3 outside Betta Motor Works in Whangas... NICE! No piccies though.. late for work!

Actually, when you think about it a bit more, it's like it's now got two engines in it! The V12's were basically 2 6's hotglued together - has 2 ecu's and all, doesn't it?

Freakin Awesome. I like the oem typre look too - no cheapass pod filters and 400 rolls of green insulation tape you stole from work. Fuel comnsumption should be pretty OK, once you stop putting the boot up it. Well done!

At least his is a touring though, it's worth a bit more..... but it's done nearly 300K too. Tidy though. I still prefer to maintain an old car I know, than buy a newer one I don't. 7K on a 7K car is still only 7K, still cheaper than a new car (or ute ). I'm too tight to buy anything very new, but I can spnd money like it's going out of fashion on an old car

Minus the fees and costs - which are charged for at surprisingly high rates!

Be VERY careful what brake cleaner you use - some of it strips paint (The partmaster stuff does!) and some will dissolve rubber or swell it - Not sure how that's safe for BRAKE cleaner, but it does!

My mates one did that. Only cost him $7000 to fix. It could just be the oil separator, but that IS a major job to do the bit in the back of the crankcase, that means you may as well do all the other common failure items... valley pan gasket, the leaky coolant hose under there, and the timing chain tensioners, since it's half apart anyway.

True! They've got quite a reputation for being crap... although some people seem to swear by them still. besides the D4D issues, there's the clutches too. Plus Toyota try to to the bare minimum to keep the things moving, not fix them properly. I have a neighbour who gets a new Ranger/BT-50 every 3 years, along with a new XR8 for his mrs. The things get a good caning in his hands (even when cold) and he's had no problems with the utes (Smae can't be said for the Falcons - the last one left home twice on a truck ) If you use the ute for what it's designed, and are aware of their limits, they're an awesome truck. I'm trying to get our work van replaced by a ute with a box body on the back (we need 4wd, and the chemicals are rotting out the 5 year old Hiace!). That 5 cylinder goes like a proper diesel should. I understand it is a proper Euro diesel, not a nasty jap one.

I probably will, for a split second before it stalls, the first time I try to take off somewhere busy That's pretty awesome! Especially since it seems so original, as opposed to looking like a complete hotrod. If we'd found something far less original, we'd considered building one with a little EFI jap motot and box, so it could be an almost daily car. The original engine sounds so neat though. putputputput putputputput It'll be an awesome speed machine - at 50 MPH, it'll feel like 200 would in the E30

They come up on Ebay reasonably often - Brand new genuine BMW retrofit kit, including rear suspension based self levelling, brand new facelift angel eye lights, all bulbs included. They're the orange indicator version (Which I actually prefer anyway, on the right colour cars) but they still look smarter than the pre-facelift lights. The orange was standard on Euro and NZ non-sprt cars. I think mine ended up being under NZ$1K... just! The light output is FAR superior to the E39 halogens (which suck arse!). I haven't fitted the self elvelling, and probably won't to be honest. The car doesn't sag much with a load in it, and it's still adjustable with the dash mounted wheel.

It's actually for my olds, Dad has wanted one for years, and I think he's still a bit overwhelmed by the complex sytems in his E30 It is technically part of my collection, but they supplied the funds Cost wise, a decent Tudor is high teens, a Fordor in similar condition would probably be mid 20's and coupes roadsters and the like go up from there! There is a huge range of models. It' pretty tame : 3 speed non-synchro box, 3.3L and a whole 40hp at 2200 rpm. You have to adjust the mixture and spark advance manually too. 4 wheel cable operated drums, but 21" wheels. Gangsta!

seriously... We've had another addition to the "family". Only 4 previous owners, 98,000 miles, mostly original including the majority of the paint and a folder of history about it's life since new: 1929 Ford Model A Tudor A-Ooooooooohga!

You mean the factory perspex ones? I *may* have a set hidden in the shed, which we are cleaning out next weekend. I'll let you know if I find them.

Glacier Blue! Nice! Dad's 325i SE is the same colour. He's had it about 14 years now. Your car is an SE too, they have lots of nice goodies. The thing I like, is that the glass is all blue tinted too, even the wing mirrors.

Probably not much point in getting a alignment, it sounds like the whole front is due for an overhaul. E38's with heavy engines tend to eat front suspension (actually, so do the 728i's, just not to the same extent). The shake will be from play in the bushes and balljoints.