BreakMyWindow

Managed to set the timing for bank 1 exhaust cam after work last night. To be able to do so, as mentioned I needed the vanos on this cam to be in initial position. To achieve this I loosened the hub bolts to be able to relieve spring tension between the vanos hub and cam gear and wiggle the piston forward to it's initial position. I then followed the normal procedure to time up the cam. To get the cam to line up once you crank the engine over a few times to check it's position you need to adjust the cam slightly out of the timing window to compensate for slack in the chains. Then when you crank the engine over a few times and check it falls in the window like this : So with the timing issue out of the way, I now need to remove the vanos unit on the other bank of cams to replace a leaking o-ring.

I know the piston spins freely in the bore, I can turn the 10mm nut that joins the helical/splined gears to the piston. I havn't tried encouraging the piston to move up more in the bore as I retard the cam, but I can see now how I possibly could with a screw driver so will give that a try before loosening the spring plate tension. Cheers for the pointer Kelvin!

Hit a bit of a brick wall over the weekend. Got to the point of checking static cam timing, as suspected the exhaust cam on bank 1 was way off the alignment window on the first cam bearing cap. Correcting the cam timing is easy, however to do so the vanos gears need to be in the initial position. For the exhaust cam that's off time, the vanos gear cannot be retracted as per the proper procedure. This suggests the vanos piston is stuck or there is excessive spring plate tension which essentially sandwiches the vanos assembly to the cam gear. My only options are now to loosen all hub bolts and try move the vanos to initial position, then set static timing and proceed on with disconnecting the vanos units for a refurb. Or I remove the bank 1 vanos unit prior to setting the timing in one of 2 ways. if I have to remove the vanos unit prior to seting the timing, more investigation will be required to figure out what's causing the vanos gears/piston for this cam to get stuck. To set the timing on an s62, you need to spend about 20 mins on a bench grinder making a 27mm wrench to look like this This the bank 1 exhaust cam, as you can see the marking on the cam is way off the window in the bearing cap. All other cams ok. The position of the vanos piston needs to be close to flush at the end of the bore when the vanos and cams are in the initial position, as you can see here bank 1 exhaust piston is about half way up the bore, so needs further work to get it to the initial position before the cam timing can be corrected.

Agree.

I'd be reluctant to flush a more complex engine with vanos components that have very small oil relief holes and gallery ways etc. They may get clogged up.

Thanks. Gt1 is a dinosaur of an app, more so running on a vm.

Alex kidd in miracle world on the Sega master system II on a 14" Sony was my jam.

Wonder if BMW will make a special road going version of this.

This one's cleaner than the other for sure, but that's because it's all been apart recently and cleaned. Vanos adjustment units need to be removed in the next few days to get to this leak. Found one of the oil rails munted a bit. Where it's dented oil flows through to lubricate each cam bearing journal.

If I had a garage space big enough for 2 i'd be down!

Straight in to taking care of the important bits, the engine. Vanos test in GT1 tells me the exhaust advance value on Bank 1 in crank degrees is way out of wack, like 11 degrees out. Bank 2 passes with flying colours. No fault codes in relation to Vanos, so the issue points to being mechanical. I initially swapped the solenoid packs from bank to bank thinking it may be a solenoid issue. No joy, time to open the engine up. This engine is very clean on the inside. It was apparently rebult 35k ago with : -New oil control rings (excessive oil consumption) -rod bearings -all new chains, tensioners and guides Bank 1 valve cover was removed this evening in preparation to check static cam timing, as per the DIS recommendation during the Bank 1 vanos test. Bank 2 cover and some other bits to be removed in order to do the work. This is the underside of the valve cover on bank 1. Usually these are gummed up badly with old oil so it means one less cleaning job to do.

The new one needs vanos work. Cam timing on Bank 1 suspected off and a leak coming from in between bank 2 vanos unit and cylinder head upper cover. This ones going to be a garage queen for a few weeks. One will end up being for sale.

Might not run if the vanos units are removed...

Anyone have a modified 27mm wrench that I could borrow? Needs a bit of meat taken off each side in order to be able to turn cam shafts without damaging the cylinder head. Pic for reference :

Easy... 2 of them. Picked up this tidy NZ-New 99' M5 today. Done 148,000kms. Ex Owner had it for 9 years with an extensive service history.

Check for dry solder joints in your radio modules.

This pins must be kept clean and lube free in order for the caliper grip action to be smooth. Grease or lube will swell the pins rubber bushings. You do need to however lube the after market grass guide bushings often. But, unless race car, too much maintenance and potential disaster if the calipers seize.

Creepers are on special at Supercheap auto.

Had some spare time over the weekend and decided to investigate a rattle and squeak coming from the RF wheel. Suspected Brake caliper and pad issues. Upon taking the wheel off there was a bit of play on the caliper and a pronounced rattle as the caliper was wiggled. First problem, who ever did the brake job last lubed the Guide pins. Big no no according to TIS. Cleaned. Caliper bracket cleaned and re-lubed with anti-squeal. Found some tar stuck on the piston, cleaned and lubed the piston to pad contact surface along with the other areas as per TIS. Brake pads look to be after market items. Cleaned up and lubed with anti squeal. I also measured the disc thickness in 5 different places. All areas within spec so I'll be throwing a set of OEM pads along with new guide pin bushes in the near future. Took the car for a spin afterwards, no more rattle or squeals. Job done!

Not unless really bad!! Sucks about the trans still acting up, thought it was reco'd??

You could go to BMworkshop in Grey Lynn and get them to check your wheels on their very expensive and fussy roadforce balancer.

Jooles. Here's your 5.4litre conversion..

Sold.

Score!