aja540i

I find it a bit strange that when I got my M5 nobody mentioned its lifecycle co2 emissions, but when I told people I was getting a leaf its all I heard about.

If you had a kid In there they could pull the emergency release!

No, no one should get a prius, ever!

Has the oil been changed?

Sold it. Down to just 3 BMWs now.

Im not convinced that 'NZ new' = $30k more than UK import, but good luck to him.

I've been offered $2500 and am considering it, if a BS member wants it they can take it for that, I have the rest of the weekend to decide.

I didnt bother with certifying as the airbag was optional in these cars and removing the steering wheel removes the entire system. The rules mainly relate to removing labelling so that no one thinks they have airbags when the system has been deactivated. I have had mine out for several years and never had an issue with WOFs.

I took my original wheel out and use a non airbag msport wheel, not an issue at wof time because it doesnt have an airbag light anymore, I got this wheel as a spare but have never tested it. I might have the original control board from the one that stopped working if you know someone that can fix it.

Are you sure you re not looking to downgrade the 328?

New WOF, rego, oil and filter. Leaf has taken its spot in the driving roster so this is taking up space now!

Its actually pretty easy...once the gearbox Is out!

A couple of points about EVs, 1) There are NO envirinmentally friendly cars! If your main concern is the environment, try walking. 2) They don't suit everybody, just like any other car. A leaf is just as useless for a weekend 5 person road trip ski holiday as a nissan Micra, do your home work and buy a car that suits your needs. 3) Just like digital vs film cameras, if /when they become mainstream there will still be people who prefer the older tech for whatever reason and keep an ice car in the garage. I will be one of those people. 4) At the moment if you drive an EV you contribute nothing towards the cost of building / maintaining the roads you use, that will change, its just a matter of time.

Yeah, also gone are the days when any thieving muppet could have your car on a saturday night with an old screwdriver!!

I still have trouble associating $145, 000 with a 1.5 litre 3 cylinder car!

Not sure who "these clowns" are, but my decision to buy an ev was 90% financial, any environmental benefit is a bonus. Of course the financial benefit only applies the first time you switch from an ice car to an ev, but for me it means the vehicle has a payback period of approx 4 years. Also the environmental argument depends largely on where the vehicle is used and how the electricity is genereated, NZ is a special place that generates most of its electricity from renewables and imports 100% of its petrol, so I'm happy with my decision, everyone else can make their own!

Just read an article in a BMW magazine by a guy who had an issue very similar to this, turned out to be a worn brake pad carrier on the front brake caliper, the noise was the brake pad rattling.Probably wouldnt cause a vibration but might be worth checking if you have tried everything else.

Are you touching the glass of the bulbs when you are putting them in? What type of bulbs are you using?

I'll still have one left!

I have a spare one that needs some love but is still in reasonable condition and well in your price range. Pm me for more info.

Pretty sure I have one, will have a look and get a photo. I have this one, $60 if you want it.

Have you checked the little compartment where the ecu lives? It is accessible from the engine bay and I believe if the drains get blocked the water can track back down the wiring loom into the car.

Is the throttle body and butterfly nice and clean? Might be worth pulling it out and giving it a clean if it hasnt been done for a while.

I might be wrong but my understanding is that the heater solenoids in the e36 cycle open and closed for varying lengths of time depending on the temperature selction ( in the analogue a/c, probably a temp sensor switched thing in automatic versions) which will mean you will have to leave the temp set to max on the original controls to have a constant signal at the old solenoid plug. Would you just be able to run arelays directly from those signal wires to power the heaters and let the original system switch them on /off?

If I was going to spend big money on a straight cut gear set, I would not be putting them in a 323i. Just my 2 cents.