e30ftw

If you are going for a m5x swap, better of starting with a 325i. 316i are bottom of the crop and have little to no options, with a 325i you already have the better suspension and brakes, rear axles, medium case diff blah blah. By the time you source and swap all that stuff into a 316i you would have bought a 325i to start with. The only benefit is the 316i (m40 g240) gearbox fits directly to an m5x unlike the m20 gearboxes (without modification to the mounting / shifter atleast).

Ron would love this

It's real easy if you have all the bits. All the holes are there for mounting the positive terminal cradle and the hole into the firewall. But as Andy said it's an absolute nightmare trying to get the cable through, I suggest feeding it INTO the car through the hole in firewall, as the rubber grommet on the cable where it pops in through firewall is impossible to sit right from the inside. Other than that easy as to tuck under the carpet along the side and feed into the boot. You can use the rear bumper bolt as the earth terminal so you need only a short eart even the same as you have in the engine bay, works fine done it twice. Even managed the swap on my touring quite straight forward.

No, close though. That was a sedan and m50b25.

And it's on Megasquirt... So much for all this proof.

Cool, How about a M52B28?

TPS click test is checking you hear a click noise when it closes. Motor doesn't need to be running, just turn the throttle by hand slightly and you should hear the TPS click as it opens / closes. Check for vacuum leaks.

So clean man, you have owned this for a long time. Never thought about going m20b25?

This escalated from last time I had a look haha, looks good man. How much power you going for? Crazy Sweden build numbers? i have the opposite issue, my rear sits lower than the front. Front has raised almost a whole inch with an M52B28. So much lighter than an m20. When I did an M50 in my last coupe, I used Eibach springs, shortest they made (Part of GC Coilovers), I think they were 5.5" tall. Sat reaaally low, to the lip on 16" wheels. But they were 650lb springs so were quite stiff.

No mention of the S62 swap or is that still a secret?

Google e30 ETM, (Electric troubleshooting guide), Find one of the same year then find the brake wiring schematic. Easiest way to find how the circuit works and what you are looking for, also lists all the connectors and their locations listed somewhere too if you need to go hunting.

There are guys selling the service on Ebay, I used member 'DanThe' for an MS41 M52 ECU on e30zone - Try PM him if your on that forum, he might be able to or can point you in the right direction.

Hi Ron, According to my physics calculations, it still flows out the exhaust. Hope this helps. Cheers.

And your selling? What's a S54 worth?

A - vacuum line, Use it with the FPR B - Intake air temp sensor, won't work with m52. Hopefully you know you need to mount your M52 one somewhere, it's normally clip in style won't fit in B.

Oh yeah was using the old one then, bought stuff of you in October then since November never got a reply. Now I know!

Sorry can't help and slightly unrelated, But I have e-mailed you a few times since November querying things and never got a reply - Thought you had changed e-mail or weren't around anymore. E-mail issues?

Stricter emissions standards at the time of the m52, else I am sure they could have pulled out a lot more power out of it like the s52 which was also built with a noose around its neck.

2, Like below (from google images)

Don't think so sorry, P/N 13-62-1-703-993 Seems to fit M52/S52, M62, M73, M54, S62

6.5/7L

I swear every time I look on here you have a new thread about your car, Surely you could find this all on google it's been asked many times.

bump

You can use any of the struts, they typically chop the strut tube off and weld the coilovers onto the hub, which you need to have done by a certified welder who can certify the welds which you need for an LVV these days.

That's the retrofitted Aircon. I'm not sure how much of it is OEM, But mine had the exact same as yours. Your best bet would be to plug those 4 spade terminals into the new OEM Resistor, instead of playing around with that wiring. I took mine all out when I removed A/C and now my blower doesn't work at all, it was also powering my windows so I had to re-wire those. Not sure how it's wired in and what happens with the original wiring, But you will see extra wiring around your battery, to the front aircon and fan, into the cabin where the ECU loom fits through the firewall and across to the fusebox with a relay.