e30ftw

15x8 will fit fine without spacers, they won't stick out either.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=43207 Trade me? For sale section?

You can run the oil feed from the Oil pressure switch, you can get a fitting that fits into the pressure switch and T's off a oil feed line and another for the pressure switch (so you still have a oil pressure sensor). Return can go to the side of the sump like in picture above, I've seen some wrap it around the engine to the oil level sensor hole on the other side of the sump, or where the Intake manifold oil drain tube runs into the side of the m20 block under the intake manifold. I don't know how you get to that side though tbh...

Maybe you need to add some detail to it?? Was the rear parcel shelf cut for those speakers?

Link to your one?

Well he does list in his other Auction 'you remove the parts' for the e39.. So guessing it wouldn't be too hard to get the address of this guy.

That's why you never buy outside of trademe like that.. Should have bought it through trademe atleast.

Looks good, nice subtle changes. I think you need to drop the front a tad more to even it out though. And the dash matt is looking abit rough lol, But beats having a cracked dash.

Shipping was $104, GST and customs fees / processing $300. All through Kiwishipping from their US depot to Mainfreight depot for pickup.. Thats sea freight too, Took just over a month.

You probably just need a spanner to loosen the adjuster bolt, slip on the belt then tighten it up to adjust

What did you wire the fogs into? Did you not have existing wiring coming down? And are you sure you haven't blown the headlight bulbs etc, From my experience they blow pretty easy.. Have you checked there is power going to the headlight wires when the switch is on? Flick it on, get a multimeter and check there is voltage, that would eliminate a power problem. Or if there is no power, work your way back and get an e30 wiring diagram to work your way back see where power stops.

Have you got something to replace it with yet?

What's wrong with the engine? Lol'd at the number plate..

Yeah that's mine, They are the ESM 002's. They are made in e30 fitment so 57.1mm center bore already. They have 205/45's. I wanted 215/45 but harder to find. Probably should have gone 215/40 but meh.. You can get hubrings that are plastic rings that you just need to match inner and outer diameter to the hub / wheel bore to center the wheel. Those wheels look Exactly the same anyways.. And also cheaper / hassle free compared to buying from the US.

Yeah they're identical RS rip offs, lol I don't mind the sticking out much either, I guess thats why alot of people go with a staggered look. But then you lose dish in the front !!! EDIT* Mine are 16x9 15p, 5mm spacers in front to clear struts, they look like they would clear 45mm struts just.. But 51mm ones they dont. Rears are sweet.

Damn those are quite cheap..... I just bought similar from US. 16x9 fits in the front.. Only problem is they poke out abit and with 20p offset you would need about 8mm spacer. Else look at esmwheels.com for 002 style, they sell in 16x8 and 16x9 and have gold / white or gunmetal centers.

Did you do the window or get it done all at the shop?

I'd say he meant the cover that's at the back of the engine bay against the firewall, the one that holds the engine loom, and when you remove the cover you can get to the air blower motor, theres a drain around there which I think you may already know about.

Not a motorsport, but its a pre-facelift with the facelift M-Tech kit. Weird.. Yeah looks Fiberglass front, valance an bumper are one piece.

You can find the middle section on 318i aswell so that one is pretty easy to get hold of, as for the end cover that fits over the battery tray that one is a m3 only part and as above, easier to just buy new..

^ You drop the spring yes, but the spring only sets the initial tension then is bolted in place, so it won't move if the spring comes out. But agree with the amount of stuff you take out you should probably do the timing belt and tensioner at a minimum "while your there".

Hmmm, If you really loved your e30, you would fix it properly!! You can cover it up all you want, But damn dude.....

Yeah mine was about the same and because I wasn't certed, got done for being too low in the front. Jamex's are hella soft though, so if you had a tight fit with some 9's in the rear, you will get alot of rubbing. Again, why adjustables are better with more stiffer springs..

FWIW, there is no way you will get a decent looking stance with springs / shocks. I went pretty much as low as you can go in the front with some #YOLO spring setup which ended me up having a nice segment coming up on Highway Cops and a pink sticker.. e30 chassis sits alot lower, the front rails and control arms easily go under 100mm, but if you do you need a cert. But whats the point you will have a crap suspension setup and so forth whereas adjustables will let you go alot lower and still have proper suspension travel.

The fuse box side should have a rubber boot that covers the hole where wires pass through the firewall, unless it's rusted around there too? You can't really move the fusebox though or get much clearance, just remove the carpet side and check up behind the glovebox etc, you will be able to see where the hole is. Looks pretty nasty...