smiddy

Jon, i will take the oil filters, turbo kit, drive belt. Advise bank details and total with freight. Thanks.

I have a set of F30 403M 19in wheels.

Yep, Adam owner of Mtech is my guy for work/ service, hands on, Rover, Audi VW BMW, honest and fair with prices, Hi qual oils, filters etc.

All sounds good and your on to it. I have hybrid twins on mine, put a walbro 350 into exsisting bucket. Ran into overheat problems with pump control unit, which shuts down at around 22A draw. Was getting really hot, even to touch, around 80 deg C, added heat sinks to components and heat transfer padding to circuit board and mount area, did the 40mm PC fan modd also. Down to 30 deg C and smooth fuel pump ramp up now, unit was not happy hot.

Reason for all of that cost and work?

Great build and nice work, does this pump system come with relays and wiring to control current draw? Stock EKPM will fry its self while idleing with this array. Who are you looking to for tuning?

Great nick indeed! First thing to go is wheels, would not put those on a horse float! Does zero, for what is not a bad car shape for the time.

Had a VDO unit on mine for nine months, goes good. Was about NZ$ 550.00 to my door.

Banksey on acid🤣

What milage has car done, burn/ consume much oil? Maybe a oxygen sensor gone out, scan can test them.

Yep, Eagle describes the safest/cost effective formula. You describe the groove in rotor wear, which is common, maybe not more than wear limit. Or, rotors front, pads only rear?? Around town driving, no pedal pulseing, pads only, maybe enough???

As an X mechanic, allbiet from late 70s to late 80s. Brakes while, not that technical in many ways, are of course very, very important! If as stated, you are 'overwhelmed", this is not the job for you to tackle. As a DIY, this is certainly a risk, to yourself and others, if you lack confidence.

Nice combo, great looking car.

Brake line ring spanner, has cut out, which is one flat of hex, to clear brake line.

Yes, is a domestic USA product plan. Freight on returns and exchange rates, inhibit any gains down under would think. Click on link of Hazzy's post, link, posts to FCP are blunt from many longtime customers.

Shipping is up everywhere for sure. Hurts more with exchange rate. Turners in recent times have had quality parts way cheaper than FCP, big ticket items, N54 water pumps fuel pumps water hoses etc Bought a fair bit of stuff six months back for turbo install. Fed Ex freight, 5days.

Turner has the kit for US$ 343.75 Their freight and service is great, 5 days odd, door to door. Have never paid GST. Worth every cent, for the E series.

Turner motorsport, can be good also.

No expert myself, but learning a bit doing logs for a custom tune on hybrid turbos. Could be heaps of things going on. Tune parameters, fuel settings, aftermarket inlets, vac leaks. Really need to log a non track pull, in 3rd gear, manual mode, traction control off, 2k to 6.5k. Would look at a custom tune, with upgraded inlets, even with stock turbos, if tracking a bit, there are gains. MHD V10 2+ has a lot of issues ironed out and more flexibility, maybe try that.

Welcome Ooost, looks a nice example with low ks in relation to age. The 2006 335i, was the first release year of the 335i. 06-07 variants had issues with all forms of faulty/ fault causing gremlins, both electrical and mechanical. As Jon states, many issues maybe, almost certainly are around the corner. Mid 2008+ models had many upgraded parts, waste gates, fuel pumps, injectors, DME etc. Not knowing your purchase budget, but myself now, with the "change it out" while in there mentality, while not cheap, is the go with this model of car. IMO, a well maintained serviced 2008+ car with 140 ish ks, would be a more suitable and reliable ride for the $. Without doubt, one of the best bang for buck performance BMW cars going, if maintained properly. Good luck.

Have my car booked in Tuesday for turbo upgrade, but appear to have some missing O rings and water pipe to block oval gasket. Anyone have a install kit, I could burgle oil feed O rings, need 8, ( have 4) the 2 oil return rings and oval water gasket, can return ASAP or buy if not required. Thanks.

Some of the Asian produced oil pans have/had, smaller oil pickup tube diameter, not allowing enough fluid flow for forward drive.

You guys out there with 60kms + N54 powered cars, beware. Check your vehicle charging rate, if its not just over 14V its very likely your alternator voltage regulator is on the way out. Happened to me two weeks ago, not nice, no limp mode here, this is a tow, every fault and warning flashes, locks in park, wipers start and won't stop, no water pump. Voltage regulator fails and alternator which is 180A on these motors, overcharges, sometimes 17+V, the potencial, ( and it does) to fry components is huge. My car is a wagon, i could smell the gas emitting from battery, from current overload, can short/ ruin batteries in minutes! The Alternators themselves are robust, 200kms+ is not uncommon, but the regulator is a wear part as brushes contact is made on internal bush, they wear and lose contact, hence failure. If there ever was a true preventitive maintainance fix, easy to install, (40 min) and cheap, (US$45.00) this is it! Some ugly stories on US forums, bricked ECUs, DMEs, clusters, water pumps, trans TCUs, fuse banks...... etc. I replaced battery, 950AH, 830CCA unit, coded, all good, with faults cleared.

DCT or ZF 8speed would be more available.

Qube is on the money here. There is a forged casting build method now for wheels, not fully forged, not fully cast, but still moulded, a slight saving in weight and less flaws in final product. Your in for big money to refresh those wheels looking at pics posted. Plenty of quality aftermarket wheels suitable for road use, with width and offset options for best wheel arch/ tyre size fitments, which should suit the stance and ride you seek. Would be at least $500 to cert, with spacers. The total no brainer is .... to restore to original factory equipment or standards, another certification is required. More$$$.