Jacko

Wow, what an epic muppet.

+2 That is one fn nice touring

Oath. Nissan 370Z are pretty slick cars too. Epic off topic thread tangent

Park it up a slight up hill when you go to bleed it, makes a huge difference in getting air out. Make sure to drill a couple of little holes in the top of the thermostat if it doesnt already have them ( I stuck two 3/32 holes in mine) , makes it much easier. be sure your heater is on full hot when you do it too. I have an M20 80 degree thermostat in mine, with a late model E30 radiator and a 14" fan on a davis craig automagic switch and it seems to work well, temp sits at roughly 1/3rd driving normally. Hot day in heavy traffic it goes up too just below half. edit - too little sleep and too many words

+1, Nice e30

Just called a mate of mine down south, after remembering he went on about how sh*t hot he was at repairing a totally toasted microtech (blown fets etc...) . He's keen to have a play for beers, very economic! Cheers!

Yeh thats what im after, in lower gears with the 3.64 its way too easy to hit the limiter before changing Dont wanna rev it too a squillion rpm, but changing gear at bang on 6k seems a bit naff as you have to stop right when it sounds, and goes, the best Can you recommend anyone to have a look at my washed DME? , I looked at it and it looks to be a blown track, and maybe an itsy resistor thats toasted. If I can get it repaired (economically!) it might be an option for a "play" DME.

Is 6.3-6.5k the normal rev limit cut out for an M50B25? E34 pre-vanos, If peak power is 6000rpm, a couple of rpm over that seems a little bit close, its actually a tad annoying as she wants to rev! What are the odds my performance chip from the "washed" DME is toast? If i have spiked it, is it possible for it too wreck a good DME? Is it worth the $250 rare 402 DME risk...

Highly recommend taking it too a mechanic who is a bit more confident about fixing it, no offense meant, but from your replies I dont think you are up to it. Dont drive it, its likely gonna be cheap to fix at the moment, as long as it doesnt get any more busted in the mean time Where are you in auckland?

Mmmmmmmm

My diff seems to be happy as with just the 75w140 in it, doesnt chatter and locks up hard. Im using hybrids recommended redline cocktail in the 145k mile getrag 260 and it seems happy too. Redline FTW. Its only $14.95US quart, so if they are charging you more than 30 bucks kiwi your getting ripped

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=134&pcid=4 ~$30 odd a quart from BNT.

THEDAZ E34 lives up the road from me, nice car. Wondering if its a member.

How much do you want for the rear seat (upper and lower)? Can possibly pick up in next few weeks.

2 door/4 door? Location? Chur

^ Random spotting award goes to Greg

I have em in my E30 too, Liking them a lot. Lots of adjustability, seem to be well machined and anodised too. Really cant fault them for the price. Edit, the one issue I had with them was the pillow balls were quite tight, for the first couple of miles It would rather turn on the spring than the ball, but that seems to have fixed itself

Poor thing http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-341865721.htm

Didnt get the time to get my headers HPC coated during the swap, and after doing up all the exhaust nuts, removing them is not something I want to get into, getting them past the steering was higher priority than ease of install Ive never actually played with exhaust wrap, have heard iffy stories about corrosion though?! Anyone have any experience with it, I figure I could probably do it with the manifold on which would be a much easier way to keep the engine bay heat down... Specifically looking at this stuff http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry391503

Ha, I thought I saw dudlee down balmoral rd on monday arvo, was a few cars behind you, the M50 couldnt keep up to the mighty M10 though

Bump * 4 Spoke E30 steering wheel, good nick * E30 expansion tank, very tidy * M50/52 thermostat housing gasket - New (obviously) * New O rings etc for M50/52 oil filter (Big one, little one, and washer) * E34 M50B25 engine mount arms - Free. * Gasket for the casting around the camgears on a M50 (NV) 11-36-1-740-840 * Pair of E24/28 engine mounts, 2nd hand but good nick. (E30-M50 swap ones) * New genuine crankshaft bolt and spacer 11211720633 & 11231288660 for virtually all M5x engines from E36's too E85's * E30 PFL BMW NZ Genuine Towbar * E30 MTech 1 rear kit (with tow bar hole) Mattish black * BBS? Front kit for PFL Make me an Offffffeerrrr If Anyone has mint E30 front screen, window rubbers, and shadowline trim Id consider swapsies. Also interested in PFL rear bumper, bonnet, RH Plastic inner gaurd, wiper relay, interior window trim (the shiny bits that snap..) if anyone wants to swap E30 Parts piles.

That is one spiffy looking m20.

I remember back in the day reading NZPC, as a young tool, when this thing was getting built. For an MR2, it was pretty friggin badass.

^ Will do. Anyone actually done it? I dont imagine it would take hours and hours of dyno time to do as it would be a (comparatively) simple map. Weighing it up on a bang for buck scale

Is it worth the dollars for a relatively stock engine? 2.5" exhaust, Cold airbox and pod, headers. What sort of gains can be expected? Anyone actually done it to an M50 with stock insides and no turbo?