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Jacko

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Everything posted by Jacko

  1. Yeah they all do, think it was an option only with xenons though. Thats how you spot an import - No washers The factory alarm also appears to rare outside of the oceania market cars.
  2. All the NZ news Ive seen are same spec as mine, same as the Aussie 130 spec. - All M sports/PDC/xenons/sh*t stereo/alarm/headlight washers. The odd balls are this one, and the oddball white one that was really early (2005) that was total poverty pack without M sport (but manual)
  3. NZ New, actually a 2006 car - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3210214635?bof=ogJNCb4h , must be the only one without xenons too
  4. Anyone got an engine crane I can borrow (south auckland?) Seems a bit silly to go buy one as dont plan on using it very often
  5. After a manifold to speed up fabrication of headers, can be dead cats/whatever, as long as the flange and pipes (head side) are intact.
  6. Stop and get someone to code it, then clear fault codes. There are a few pictures on the interwebs of batteries catching on fire doing what you are doing.
  7. Took the 130 out last few days, as it wasn't raining, and totally forgot I hadn't put the cover back on airbox.. Can confirm, It sounds f**ken tits with no lid The howl in middle of rev range is addictive.
  8. Jacko

    My NewToy 635CSi

    Jealous much, I want one.
  9. Comes free with the M1 badge.
  10. Schmeidmann are on my sh*t list at moment, ordered door seals and they turn up all corroded out, and are screwing around to sort it out. FCP, ECS, Rockauto are good. Have also had good luck and shipping from some ebay stores in europe (for brake rotors)
  11. Its In the tank, not very easy to change
  12. Sure it just hasn't had the golf T mod done?
  13. Didnt start it, have heard them before though and is a nice bit of engineering. Does sound good, quad exhaust looks a bit naff to me Im looking forward to hearing my setup in a months time, headers and resonator delete on stock muffler. Hopefully doesnt drone and isnt too loud. Was pretty dissapointed with the gruppe M intake, expected better for the price they go for. I need to have a close look at simota intake and then weigh up making my own.
  14. Yeah.. Wet.... Carbon looks OK, just a bit scratched. It'd cut out easy.
  15. Not a fresh import, and it is straight, but not as nice as the trade me pics show. Would clean up well, no oil leaks and engine looks nice and clean. GruppeM intake is a bit average, nice carbon just a bit shitty execution. Can't see any other goodies on it. Would be good buy for 10ish and make shiney, or parts.
  16. I think ill go have a poke around this one this arvo - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/other/listing/3168916290 I only want bits of it though
  17. I think this lives by me somewhere, its definitely head turning.
  18. 36mm 32mm 28mm on E82 135 fronts (6 pot) , 42mm e82 135 rear (2 pot)
  19. You got it, the good thing the 135i calipers is there is sh*t loads of pad options. The weights must be a harmonic resonance thing, they are big chunks of steel bolted to the aluminium caliper. I didnt bother weighing them, probably similar to stock brakes though for any meaningful purposes in unsprung weight - Steel Vs Ali, and the 135 rotor is two piece with aluminium hat. The the other option for the real BBK fanbois is to run E82 135 calipers up front, on adapters with E46 M3 CSL rotors. FBBK.
  20. FWIW, I suspect my rebuild of the 135i calipers I got cheap ($800?) cost more than just buying BMW Performance kit new... could do a cheaper rebuild than what I did in saying that.
  21. The coding bit is piss easy, takes about 5min, you dont actually need to code them but BMW did the work to get the brake balance and feel right... so why not. The easiest plug and play is E82 135 calipers, these are the big banana brakes on my car. They bolt straight on front and rear, calipers are big but old school design (at least in the front)... only real downside from them is having to remove the caliper to change pads on the front, rears are more moden. Think the caliper was share with a few porsche models. The front rotors are same as 135, the rear are specific to the BMW performance 130 kit, but are available at sane prices (brembo) if you shop around, think I paid $120 a rotor slotted/dimpled nice rotors. Rotors for front and rear are also available from DBA so easy to get. Technically, you dont need a cert for this option. The other option for shiny big monoblock calipers is F20 M135, fronts are bolt, however the rears require some finnicking to make fit as (from memory) use E39 M5 rear disks that are modified and trimmed pads. More modern caliper, but comes with more bullshittery as was never a stock 130 option (whereas the BMW performance option is just painted up 135 brakes) Third option, which would be nice, but difficult logistically, is F20 M135i front calipers and rotors and E82 135 rear calipers with BMWP 130 rear rotors. 335i/d brakes are also an option, but are not monoblocks and are big single pot and not shiny. Arguably good option if making a cheap track car, but if cheap track car is the goal best option is probably race pads and rotors on stock calipers.... the shiney monoblocks are 90% wank factor Suspect the fronts are bolt on, not sure about the rears.
  22. Gah, c**ts. Worst thing is cleaning out the neverending bits of glass out of everything.
  23. Are they B30s? or B25?
  24. Did some interneting, found a guide on how to screw with kombi using ediabas and hexadecimals and flick the mpg gauge into a oil temp gauge (when I want to make my oil temp gauge stop being an mpg gauge :D) ... then found this little program - Perfekt Toolbox. Works great! (the numbers here are what to plug in if anyone in the future is reading this) https://www.drive2.com/l/515881510977405074/ I now have a working oil temp gauge, that even shows oil temp. Now to solve the speedo, going from 260kmh to 280kmh on the lci has made it go a bit out of whack calibration wise (only starts getting bad above 140kmh)
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