Jacko

Decided to say screw it and picked up a 5800x (its what's in stock...), Asus ROG X570, 32GB of 3600 ram and a 1TB PCIe 4 NVMe... Its a beast, even without screwing with the clocks (boost clocks stay pegged at max with 360mm AIO for ages), but now my 6 month old 2070 super is the bottleneck... and the circle of life continues.

Bit of screwing around with the wrong sized mandrels, need 85mm to fit the bearing and universal kit only went to up 82mm.. KB Motorsport is a legend. Bearings replaced, pretty straight forwards with the right tools. Bit of a clean up of bores and lick of rust converter and good for another 300,000km. Getting handbrake cables out requires undoing a lot of stuff just to get to the balance bar, but otherwise easy to replace.

Gah that sucks, will wheels clear the gaurd when compressed with +5mm spacer?

KBM hooked me up, legend.

Instructions unclear. Popped disk, shat pants.

Anyone out there in Auckland happen have a mandrel for wheel bearing kit that is 85mm ID? One in my kit is 82mm.. there are beers on offer.

Dunno about mice stirring throughout the house, but the rattle gun is certainly singing. Nothing fighting me yet, going too smoothly... something must be seized somewhere.

Id start at the top end. Remove the scuttle panel with the interior air filter (and the little U shaped seal that covers the seam and gets grotty) and then give the thing a good degrease and water blast, including down the front of engine. Do the rocker cover gasket and oil cooler gaskets (remember to back off the valvetronic motor before undoing it) - lots of DIYs on these. Serpentine belt, tensioner, idler - FCP euro etc have a video At this point you could put it back together and drive around if wanted (id be flushing and replacing the coolant as well), its going to be much happier and the other bits can be done later, but Drop subframe (the braces are cheap, think mine was $80, you're welcome to borrow it if made logistical sense) Do waterpump and thermostat, lots of room with subframe loose (can do it perfectly fine with subframe in as well - you could do this and bleeding after serpentine above as well) Sump gasket, this is fiddly, its bit like wrestling an octopus with the subframe still installed but loose. I would recommend using some gasket sealant on it, others wont. There is a fitting from the CCV system into the sump on LH side of engine that you will swear at, make sure it goes back on though. Put it all back together and then bang in the blue BMW coolant and run through the bleeding procedure Enjoy

Im Batman. The included tape is reeaaally grabby, only get one shot at getting it on square! Going to run a fine bead of sealant around it just crap getting in the leading edge.

Destined to sit on a caryard for awhile.. In saying that... remember when you could get a tidy E30 325 tech 2 coupe for under 10k and people said that was expensive for an old car

I immediately assumed this guys ethnicity. Pretty sure that makes me rascist

Doctor says - Go for a drive, find a nice road, windows down, stereo up. If still not feeling better, give a mate a buzz and shoot the sh*t.

Yup sorry, thats not the usual one to break. Ali one is the one next to that, otherside of oilcooler.

Im in the Wairarapa Wednesday (driving back north). Pretty sure I have spare aluminium fitting, if you want it happy to drop it off. Edit - looking at your pics on the big screen, rather than phone, if it the one with the two 10mm bolts or the one to the otherside of the oil cooler?

Very common failure point on N5x, there is an aluminum fitting replacement that solves it. Have done it on 330 and 130 The rest is just shitty workmanship..

Diff Rebuilt. Kayne commented the pinion bearing was shagged and I should be running 75w140.. This might have been my dentist drill whine under load? We shall find out. Diff looks new now..

Take two Much better! I think some people got yelled at. Looks new now, did a sh*t hot job the second time around.

Cant really think of any part that could be so busted couldnt fix an alignment like that, unless one of the eccentric bolts was stripped and the tech just made one match the other? Its normally the front tie rod ends that seize, not the rear end.

Low km, all the options, and manual.. (the only real option you want 😛 ) Be one of the more desirable 130s.. Probably be over priced, but not by huge amounts for the right buyer.

^ That car is stunning.

Itd be cheaper just do the job once Goes back tomorrow...

These bits out, so diff can go of to Kayne to do bearings and have a look at the backlash in quaife before Christmas.. (be rude not to get the resonator cut out at the same time as exhausts out)

Also be aware that friends dont let friends by 4 pot BMWs, not sure if this applies to VASK members or not...

Got it back from panel beater - http://panel.co.nz/ who have swapped a door off a wrecker onto it, without cleaning said door, and then plastered the wrong colour paint on... The big gouge in the lower sill of car hasnt even been fixed, which was the scariest part of the damage The door isnt aligned properly The paint blending job has put fish eyes into what was undamaged panels Inside is full of dust from sanding Its not even the right colour and metallic flick is uneven.... So it'll be going back to get fixed, I've never seen so many nibs and fisheyes on a single panel before.. appalling workmanship. I find it amazing so many players in the auto industry are absolute hacks, I could have done a better job than this myself in the shed.

BMW Performance wheels too, I had them on my car for a bit but wasnt really a fan. That looks like a Gruppe N intake?.. also its dripping in dealer silicon jizz. Wonder if they'd sell the intake separately