Jacko

Thats nice, and well priced.

Have you tried Bimmergeeks protools? Im pretty sure it does all that, failing that downloading the installing the BMW software package from their site (with ISTA/INPA etc) is pretty painfree.

Nah, old mate - TTT Auto - Race car / LVV Cert / Engineering shop in Te Rapa

Its about 30 hours of fabrication time, so kind of do it once do it right deal Guy making them is a pro, so should end up with at least the same gains as brintechs (using pics as a reference...), just nicer work.

If using it as ya daily, a long 3/8th extension and a hammer in the boot gets a few goes out of the starter

Titaniums for poor people, inconel only. Leaning towards ceramic coating, Im just not sure how it ages.

Header decisions to make.. Thoughts? Stainless - higher price, no corrosion issues, might sound tinyer. Mild steel - cheaper Mild steel HPC coated - roughly same price as Stainless all in. I havent had stuff coated before so not to sure on how it ages?

Other end looks tickety boo as well. New oil filter housing gaskets and pressure switch done, new plugs in. Injectors off to be cleaned and benched. Now we play the wait on the courier game... milvs/gaskets/belts/pulleys/coils(with new plugs to convert my old spec car)... and every single coolant pipe. Gives me time to find a new rocker cover.

Not really, unless ya CCV is dicky. Dont forget O rings for the intake runners.

Pull off intake, replace starter, replace intake. Its a ball ache just due to the intake removal/install.

Nah, well maybe in a few spots (or thats what blows the protective ali coating off and starts the corrosion), but others are around bolts etc.

Think this one's terminal, the rot keeps going.. Black dust gone intergranular. Might just have to bite the bullet and spring for a new one 😕

If had easy/cheap access to dyno Id do before and after with mine. I can 100% see how brintech got 17rwkw out of their headers..

Anyone successfully repaired a magnesium rocker cover before? Its seems theyre are the age where 95% of them are corroded. Most of them seem to blow holes down the coil tubes, and a couple blow out the inner mounting bolts. Im thinking grind out the rot, then treat in something, then rebuild with JBweld/Ali plug or something, then respray in something protective... Its not exactly structural but will need to be relatively temperature stable.

Rotors, its designed for you to have a looksee at them, get frustrated and snip stuff There is also flag for brake fluid.

Sump gaskets not a bad job, just time consuming and messy with the subframe still attached. I got the engine brace on tardme for like $70, welcome to borrow it but might be a bit of a commute!

Couple of hours of cleaning and poking around today. Looks good inside.

130 manifold for those that care, with a finger for scale. There's definitely ponies hiding in here, compared the intake which is a work of engineering art, the exhaust manifold is 100% potato

Freshen up with new seals etc, MILVs and rag on it During the swap will get KB to give the box a freshen up. Goes in for the headers end of month

Cheers to HellBM, now have a new lump to play with....

Yay for anything but black

Yeah I realise that, but with the intake valves open both arent going to work so flash Edit - Plugged ISTA in and followed instructions, all works. Unplug valvetronic, wind to 176 degrees. ISTA definitely written for compression rather than leakdown test. I have a marginally sad cylinder 6 Its about 15psi off the others.

Will it not be the same?

Anyone found the correct procedure for doing a compression test? Ive hunted newtis with no joy, from what I understand need to drive valvetronic to correct position to get the intake valves in right spot

Oceania spec 130s seem to be different again, xenons for instance are pretty rare in UK market and so is the alarm (I havent seen them in any other markets cars). They also got the E81s and LEs in the UK, but that may have just been down to them being so slow to move off of BMWs yards in NZ they didnt bother.