Jacko

Finally killed it properly, and now I can't find them on aliexpress 😕 There used to hundreds for sale.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2904416551?bof=dzuFQrUp - Do it. That looks like a good buy

If you press the BC button on left hand stalk it'll scroll through all the trip options, average speed, instantaneous fuel, range, average fuel etc etc. If you press the up and down toggle it'll scroll through the menu where you can check oil level, check fault codes, etc etc When its got a active error it'll pop up a little triangle next to the trip odo (thats currently reading 010.3km) that you can get more info on through the above (things like low fuel will do it too) A proper engine fault gets its own orange/red warning light next to the airbag light etc. Orange - somethings broke. Red - stop driving. There is also a "hidden" menu if you hold down the trip reset button on cluster it'll go into the service menu where you can reset oil changes etc etc.

Average trip speed isnt it.

42k? with sh*t budget tyres and grime everywhere (is that rust around the tail light?)

Masterton return via allll the B roads, didnt miss a beat

We've been giving contracts to lowest price tenders for decades now, its so broken. We get sh*t products that arent on time, companies go under trying to meet contracts that are impossible to do (but they got the job) and people lose their jobs. $50 a couple of the big contractors in NZ collapse in the next 6 months, or withdraw from NZ completely.. in 10 years time the only ones available to do it will be Chinese.

Its not even nicely done 3D printing.. even bolting that on is a bit silly...

I didnt see anything on newtis about preloading, only the final torque of 420Nm?

3M90 or 77 would be my guess, 90s probably overkill.

If they've tried to pull the flange out of the race (step 1 in replacing the bearing), the bearing in the "new" bits is pretty much guaranteed to be toast now as it ripped the inner race out of the bearing.

Mission accomplished. The high pitch power on dentist drill whine at 100ish has gone, must have been the diff. All works good and feels tight as a tiger. Handbrake can now be adjusted properly, no more 5 click nonsense. Checked for 11s, satis.

Thats absurd, Id be arguing they didnt have the gear or know how to do the job they shouldnt have taken it on, and wanting them to discount the rates.

New handbrake hardware and shoes (the bmw kit for all the handbrake stuff for both sides is cheap as chups), halfshafts cleaned and banged back in.. They look pretty good for how many times they've been spun around! 420Nm on the axle nut = 71kg at 600mm

Will keep an eye on this direct memory access shennanigans and see how it looks and prices change in another 6 months when all the hardcore gamers stop fighting over the new cards. Gonna build another box out of decent last gen spare bits to tardme, if anyone wants a 4790k.

What part wont come apart? Tell them to try harder @HELLBM has 130s

Decided to say screw it and picked up a 5800x (its what's in stock...), Asus ROG X570, 32GB of 3600 ram and a 1TB PCIe 4 NVMe... Its a beast, even without screwing with the clocks (boost clocks stay pegged at max with 360mm AIO for ages), but now my 6 month old 2070 super is the bottleneck... and the circle of life continues.

Bit of screwing around with the wrong sized mandrels, need 85mm to fit the bearing and universal kit only went to up 82mm.. KB Motorsport is a legend. Bearings replaced, pretty straight forwards with the right tools. Bit of a clean up of bores and lick of rust converter and good for another 300,000km. Getting handbrake cables out requires undoing a lot of stuff just to get to the balance bar, but otherwise easy to replace.

Gah that sucks, will wheels clear the gaurd when compressed with +5mm spacer?

KBM hooked me up, legend.

Instructions unclear. Popped disk, shat pants.

Anyone out there in Auckland happen have a mandrel for wheel bearing kit that is 85mm ID? One in my kit is 82mm.. there are beers on offer.

Dunno about mice stirring throughout the house, but the rattle gun is certainly singing. Nothing fighting me yet, going too smoothly... something must be seized somewhere.

Id start at the top end. Remove the scuttle panel with the interior air filter (and the little U shaped seal that covers the seam and gets grotty) and then give the thing a good degrease and water blast, including down the front of engine. Do the rocker cover gasket and oil cooler gaskets (remember to back off the valvetronic motor before undoing it) - lots of DIYs on these. Serpentine belt, tensioner, idler - FCP euro etc have a video At this point you could put it back together and drive around if wanted (id be flushing and replacing the coolant as well), its going to be much happier and the other bits can be done later, but Drop subframe (the braces are cheap, think mine was $80, you're welcome to borrow it if made logistical sense) Do waterpump and thermostat, lots of room with subframe loose (can do it perfectly fine with subframe in as well - you could do this and bleeding after serpentine above as well) Sump gasket, this is fiddly, its bit like wrestling an octopus with the subframe still installed but loose. I would recommend using some gasket sealant on it, others wont. There is a fitting from the CCV system into the sump on LH side of engine that you will swear at, make sure it goes back on though. Put it all back together and then bang in the blue BMW coolant and run through the bleeding procedure Enjoy

Im Batman. The included tape is reeaaally grabby, only get one shot at getting it on square! Going to run a fine bead of sealant around it just crap getting in the leading edge.