thorburn

Hopped up on confidence after fixing the LCM. I delved into repairing the dash. I failed miserably. Pixels are now unreadable. Return spring for the fuel level sender gauge is broken. The problems that were there probably still are. Only thing to note is the gauge cluster appears to be from an e38. So possibly could be contributing to why I can't scan it. Moved onto something back in my skill level. Removed the dash bar to check for anymore wiring that's been tampered with or corrosion. Only one bunch of wires that went to the boot and connected to nothing under the dash. They lead to the boot and don't connect to anything. Nothing else seems to have been effected by the rain getting in. While I was there I cleaned up the surface rust on the dash bar. Good for another few years Cleaned up the footwell surface rust and started putting it back together Now looking for a new gauge cluster Still haven't figured out why I can't scan it. Hoping a new instrument cluster will solve something. Then need to learn how to recode it.

Searched up the part number of the 7 legged mosfet(no idea if it's a mosfet but that's what I'm calling it) that I thought could be the problem. Found some possible data sheets and was able to confirm it wasn't functioning properly. Tried to figure out if there were any spares that weren't being used on the board e.g rear fog lights. Turns out there aren't. Managed to get a brief understanding of how the lcm works while reverse engineering it. Picked up another light control module to raid a mosfet from. Desoldered the failed mosfet Here it is back together, apart from the clips and lid. Luckily the smoke stayed in and it all works. So another job off the list. Onto trying to make the obd port work next

I've just learnt the light control module would need to be coded to suit the car. So I'll stick to sorting out the diagnostic port

Thanks. I've noticed the drains going down the a pillars. I intend on putting the hose on it to check the seal and drains. Maybe send some mig wire down either side as well. You're welcome to come join the fun

Managed to complete some other jobs, so started digging into this again. Removed the dash so I could make sure the water hadn't got into anything else. Luckily it isn't bad. A little surface corrosion that I'll clean up next. Found the lighting control module while trying to sort the brake light staying on. It has had some water through it. Will swap in one from the X5 to confirm if it's the problem (quick Google says it's the same part, will find out tomorrow). Found these previous sins near the throttle pedal and the radio. The extent of the water damage on the floor-not too bad The snipped wire on fuse 38. This will be why the airbag light wasn't coming on. And put in the new windscreen seal. Spent some time checking for continuity between the diagnostic port in the engine bay and where it's supposed to connect. I'm assuming I'm looking for a broken wire.

Think it is about 260k, can check tomorrow.

Picked up this e39 a wee while ago. Has a bunch of ac kit on it, had the timing chain done, and is manual. Only known negative at the time of buying was that the sunroof might leak a little and the diff is starting to get noisy. Got about 8 months of enjoyment out of it. Then the brakes started getting very spongy. Got that repaired- it was the abs. Unfortunately the abs doesn't work, it now has a solid pedal though. I was also told they couldn't scan the car and they believe some wires have been snipped behind the dash. Had a few others try scan it (thanks everyone) but nobody had any luck. The car was parked up for some time after that, during that time the sunroof leaked into the drivers footwell. My current list of problems is as follows: -replace windscreen trim seal (have a new one just need to install) -passenger brake light stays on -passenger tail light wiring suspect -not scanning -airbag light not coming on -coolant temp not correct on gauge -abs light not working -abs not working -diff noisey -front bumper grill drivers side broken -lumbar support drivers-motor goes but no movement -clunk in front suspension - possibly the garbage power flex bushes I installed -oil change -surface rust from water leak -washer fluid bottle leaks -needs a clean Ultimately I'm looking to sell the car (too many cars). If someone wants to take on that list of problems I'd let it go for 8k. Otherwise I'll slowly fix it up and try and sell it for a considerable amount more.

Where did you get the new buckles? I don't mind buying new for a seat belt. There's probably nothing wrong with e30 ones, but good piece of mind if you go new

Did you see the demon crash behind you at the time? Which seat mounts did you use?

Did you ever get around to making one of these?

Are you worried that the spherical bearing won't turn about the shock axis?

Search realoem for part number Go to fcp or schmiedmann and order

The usual- 'too good to be true' Thanks, just the info I needed I had originally looked at those sites. The trademe option was far cheaper. Was hoping for a bargain

It's probably due a bit of a birthday. Was considering getting the full kit like this one https://www.trademe.co.nz/2724474566 And the matching rear kit from the same seller. A bit worried that this unbranded kit is so cheap. Has anyone else taken the gamble with this company?

Legend.

That isn't too bad. Only a little more than some overseas options. I'm a welder/fabricator by trade. So should be able to make up a bracket. Those photos were definitely helpful though. I've also got a 3d printer with a roll of petg as well. So there are options.

Where did you order your expansion tank? I've got access to a used one. But I've got new parts for the rest of the cooling system. No reason to stop

Thanks for the bracket overview.

I'm currently looking into getting a euro expansion tank for an aftermarket radiator. I did notice where I was searching in realoem the caps all seem to be 2 bar. Higher boiling point from that extra pressure might be all it takes. Are you using a mechanical or electric fan? Sorry I'm of no help. But would be keen to find out before I head in the same direction

Sloppy mechanics style?

Manual e39 540

Also have a check where you're going to run a downpipe. You run out of space really quick if runners 5 and 6 stick out too far. If the turbo is sitting up top that is.

If its the same as all the other aliexpress ones it doesn't fit as is.

How did you get the orientation for the big ends? Some sort of degree wheel to reorientate? So cool

I want to know how much extra the guy wants for the e30 m3