hybrid

nice .. looking forward to seeing it up and running.

Give me till after this weekend .. will scan and have a look.

Mean, here is the thread for this .. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=30907

The goal in this thread is to confirm and create an open document for e30 - e36 Window Switch conversion. attached is the .XLS file, if you add to it, please make sure the information is confirmed as we need this document to be as accurate as possible. Ill start with a write up I did in my build thread Document attached e30_to_e36_window_switch___wiring_table.zip

maybe do some testing and monitoring of knock. Sounds awesome man .. good work. Do your exhuast system and look for any flow restrictionssuch as noise reducer 2-1 pipes about mid way down. This will help your topend power.

The 4 door thing is for the e36 switch .. not the e30 4 door. I dont own a 4 door e30 and I only had white base e36 right front and right rear 4 door switches. So the diagram is a little incomplete. Also I didnt have blue base switches so I couldnt confirm the wiring of them (although I have a wiring diagram for it) If people want to add to it .. by all means. Ill upload the .XLS file for edit. All I ask is that the information is triple checked for accuracy as I will be using this as a tech resource on a articles site I'm doing. Ill start a new thread for it later tonight.

This has now moved to thursday night. IBM 1u server

hehe .. Still have some more articles to write. Re the eprom burner ... My old man does the same sort of things .. I just never really had the balls to de-solder my eprom from the mss50.

What would of been epic if it had box guards.

A dead HID bulb will show itself as slow flicker on start up a few weeks before it will totally die. This is a sure fire sign to get your order in from the states before it totally dies. I use DS2 @ 8000k. I got em for about 220 landed from the states. Also, unplug and plug all your connections after the balast as the connections can get 'crusty' I have it happen time to time.

Badass ... dont suppose he got you any details on what where how ? Nice to see you have some overlays. Also, How did you end up dumping your ECU BIN ?

The paint job is what all test mules come out as. Its to disguise the true lines of the car until its launched. Its to stop the japs copying their body styling before release. Notice also around the bumper there are plastic blanking plates around the lines .. to hide the curves and true look of the mouth .. which I might add has a suspsious intercooler look to it .. not too sure about that as the rumors have been something a long the lines of a s54 engine.. probably just a boosted n55 to around 360-380hp.

So today thanks to Ray @ Hellbm (http://www.hellbm.com) converted my horrible e30 window switches to then nice 'click' feel of the e36 switches. I first tried some green base switches which as I found out dont work. This is because the later model switches are infact digital encoder switches and only tell the general module (GM) to activate the electric window relays. E30's obviously didnt have such technology so I went for a white base switch. So I decided to include a small write up to help others, this also includes a wiring diagram from the info I had at hand. Green base switches (dont use these! ) Green base digital encoder Green base pulled apart White base switch (Use this or Blue base). Notice the thicker wiring Inside the switch Proper high current switch contacts to deal with the current from the electric window motors. Before starting any of this DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FROM THE TERMINALS My brother has had a high current burn before and it burnt a hole right through his hand once, crossing these wires will do the same if you short them So lets get started, Remove the gear shifter boot. and remove the e30 window switches, unplug the e30 loom end and we cut the plug off. Twist the wires on following the wiring diagram carefully. Use electrical tape to shield the wires from each other (make sure you have it all covered) and reconnect the battery, turn the key to postion 2, and test you windows. You should also have the LED light up (you switch should glow) After this, disconnect the battery and tin / solder all wires on the switches and e30 loom end. Right nows the time to enlarge the switch hole in the console to fit the larger e36 switch. I took my time with this and used a half round/flat file. I thought about using my dremel but there is a risk of over shooting the mark and cutting too much off. constantly test fit the switch and surround BEFORE you solder the wires together, run them through the enlarged hole. You dont HAVE to do this .. but it makes it easier to locate the switch. Use heat shrink and a heat gun to shirnk up the tubes.CAREFUL DONT MELT YOU CONSOLE! Repeat all of this for the other side, obviously following the wiring diagram to suit your switch type. My second switch was from the rear e36 switch panel so it had different colours I have included it in the wiring diagram. Put it all back together and reconnect the battery and test. All Done!

hahaha .. nice to see the HSV getting passed. Those m3 if you notice sit so much flatter and point the corners more than everything else. looks like a pretty bloody sweet series!

The light means go get an ODBII scan done and have the codes read. Go see ray / Hellbm (on the shore) or glenn Botany motorworx (south akl).. they have the equipment to do this.

If your happy with the size then send to Lance @ Arrow wheels and get a quote for repair. Then get a refund for that amount. Should be around 180-200 to repair a buckle properly.

For sure .. I have it on good authority about using chinese sources to do the 3d printing.

Will add a subframe build up in my project thread with this. I'm probably going to web/strengthen the trailing arm mounts too if possible. Only because mine will be takening a bit more a beating than your everyday road car.

Yes its official title is 1M ... not M1

Wednesday the 14th / July we intend to change to new fibre providers so there will be a outage around 7pm. DNS propagation will also up to 24hours however should working in the morning for most of you. In usual fashion we aim to do this plastered for comical value and will bring a vivid so we can actually draw dicks on the servers my face this time. mean.

Further to this, the heater pipes are 1 hours work to modify and the brake set up took a couple of solid days. Let me know and i'll get some relocation plates made up for you. It will be a bit silly to come all this way and not get the whole thing to fit properly. Dont give up on the plenium so easily ! Don't get me wrong, I get the whole trumpet thing but also if this is going to be road driven, its probably a good idea to have the plenium for the norm. Noise and general heat soke issues will become annouying for you.

Any reason why ? you can do exactly what I did. re routing the brake lines is a small bit of work but you can use the factory lines, also the pedal to swing leaver push rod can be modified as with the bracket .. its worth it.

before you do that, what exactly is it fowling on ? It may be simpler to modify the thing its getting stuck in, or atleast the mounting position?

no pipes ?