Herbmiester

Yes Auto 38, John is very good.

The most likely issue at that mileage will be the turbos. He states there is no waste gate rattle so if that is the case you are probably ok. That said he has MHD installed so there is a WG rattle fix in the software, it doesn't fix the problem it just masks the rattle so ask about that. With a stage 2+ tune if the coils or injectors are no good it will be quite obvious, also the upgraded intercooler charge pipe is a problem solved. The trans service, waterpump replacement, starter replacement, catch can etc are all nice to see. A stage 2+ N54 is a quick car be cautious especially if its wet. Early N54 cars as mentioned had forged crank, rods and very good pistons, they also had the big bolted diff so fitting an LSD is somewhat easier and very worthwhile.

Style 32s are also reasonably light.

Staggered will require 8.5s at the back. here is a review of the Falken Azensis. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Falken&tireModel=Azenis+RT615K%2B

I could be wrong but they look like the panel join points.

Hyperdrive have Yokohama AD08r's and Falken Azensis Rt615k+, both are reasonable tyres if not class leading. Staggered setup solves a lot of problems.

I agree completely with William, I tried a 245 on an 8 inch rim and it just felt off. I went staggered and on my E46 with Ohlins suspension and bigger sway bars etc and it worked really well. Just persevere and find decent 235s or go staggered, I agree its not easy. Buy once cry once.

M2 is a very nice choice. My current favorite M car.

M135i 140l etc are suitably quick, probably faster than the E46 M3 especially if they have had a tune. Not the collectability of course but a nice daily all the same.

I have owned 6 new off the showroom floor cars but only 1 was a car bought on emotion. New cars are nice in that everything works its tight and there are no cosmetic issues. I have never owned a second hand car that didn't need something done. I am a bit impulsive and have low level OCD so when ever I get a car I generaaly spend too much time and money fixing it. I have 5 cars and 7 motorbikes, they all work bar one, 3 are brand BMW, I could have a less complicated life without vehicles.

Yes V9 is Beta but I have been running it for nearly 6 months and it is a better map in my opinion. What I dont know is why my shifts feel different in sport mode. (I dont have Xhp, yet) I am a stage1 + with FMIC upgrade and a catch can and charge pipe. I started on Map 6 and have gone through each iteration until I got to 9. I have also gone with linear throttle mapping which I swear by and I have limited boost in first to 10 psi and second to 14. My car now feels better than it ever has by a noticeable amount. The data says V9 is the quickest but and subjectively also the smoothest. I do need to get Xhp installed to complete the package.

I was never that happy with V8 maps and went to the V9 on recommendations from a few guys in the US who use it. V9 seems to offer a much smoother power delivery, its less spikey and more linear. Some Asuuies did a few tests and although its smoother it is also quicker. It sharpened up my shifts as well.

Price from NZ, Stocks and perhaps Adens tyres and then look at Demon Tweeks. DT were substantially cheaper even after freight and GST. That said I would prefer to shop local and would pay a small price premium over imported. Are the radius arm bushes replaceable of do your replace the whole arm?

That interior is very nice. Very very very nice in fact.

My Ohlins setup was quite stiff and I had 003 245's all round on the 330ci and that was a very neutral car with pretty high levels of grip. By the time I get 3 minutes into the valley I have turned 25 to 30 corners so I suspect getting heat in them is no problem.

P Zero Rossos, dry grip was fine but average in the wet and they just felt a big vague.

I bought Koni SA's for my E92 after listening to some good debate here a few years back. I have also run Konis and Bilsteins on my various E36's over the years. My observations are as follows. The Koni SA when set up correctly on my E92 combined with M3 control arms and Tein springs has certainly made the car handle noticeably better than stock and even with the transition from 17" to 18 inch kept ride comfort acceptable on the rough roads where I live. On the highway the suspension works very well and I definitely have a more control in faster corners. Dialing the rear end in is a complete pain in butt as you have to remove the shock to change the setting. The front is fine as you can adjust through the strut tower. Overall I am happy but the car needs an LSD but this will no doubt mean I need to change my roll bars to help dial out under-steer which is reasonably well controlled at present. although an LSD may allow me to rotate the car with the throttle something the E90 M3 owners I have talked to say works well. On my E36's I could not feel a noticeable difference between a B8 equipped 325i and Koni SA equipped car. Both I felt handled well but the Koni car had Re003's and the Bilstein car had Pirellis which I did not think were as good. I have a good test drive course, Whitemans Valley, and when things are not right it becomes pretty obvious. The best car through the valley was my E46 330ci with Ohlins Road and Track suspension, with Superpro bushings and revised roll bars, great ability to deal with the bumpy surface while still giving great feel and confidence in the corners.

I see you have a 135i, catch cans and N54s go together, The PCV on an N54 is a bit weak and with direct injection keeping oil out of the intake helps stop carboned up intakes.

A few days back I drove a manual E36 Sedan and to be fair I struggled a wee bit because I am 196cm tall. While I could change gears its was not a natural process and I felt very cramped. As I am planning to manually convert my E36 Coupe I was wondering if the seat, wheel pedal relationship is much different between coupe's and sedans?

I am sure a few of the real experts will chime in but I remember cam-chain tensioners and Vanos units can be troublesome at higher KM's and it may have leaking valve covers which seems to be a BMW thing.

Ivan I have gone down this path and did a lot of research beforehand. Springs from H&R, Eibach or Vogtland are the simplest solution, and being German they are TUV certified and reviews say they match M Sport shocks reasonably well. I went with Tein and they are quite low and quite firm, The firmness is OK especially at highway speeds but around town and on bumpy rural roads its a bit rough. I am tempted to go back to the MS springs as I do drive on a lot of bumpy road. Now that said if its all about the look just get some cheap King Springs a 30 to 40mm drop in the front will get you about even with the guards and about 25mm in the back. Coil overs are really only worth it if you buy quality but you will have to be certified for them so that's an extra $500 or more.

I dont usually get into my real bugbears but as a Hunter and firearms owner I am so disappointed by the Police over the granting of a Licence to the Christchurch Terrorist. I do admit to having a Dog in this fight so to speak, and I personally know the previous Police Inspector in charge of firearms. He had backed up everything that Stuff published last week regarding the poor performance of Police in checking Tarrant's background. He should never have been given a licence yet Minister Nash keeps coming forward and saying everything was done correctly. Firearms ownership is a very divisive and emotional subject with people having very strong opinions either way, I get that. What annoys me is that internally Police would have know pretty quickly if things were done correctly and the Government would have known as well. I guess we will have clearer indication when the Royal Commission reports but I am convinced someone is telling lies.

I looked at options for 100m2 shed and went with a builder in the end. JB construction in Upper Hutt. Really good guy to deal with and honest, I also have a Versatile shed, would not use them again.

My e92 is low so I bought a low profile jack and I think its the way to go. Pretty confident I could get this under the car between the jack and lifting point, possibly not if you had a normal height jack. Not sure I agree with flimsy, looking at my traditional jacks it has a wider base so probably better in respect to stability. All that said being able to jack at the lift point is a huge plus. I will look to get some and see how they work in the real world.

I need a medium case diff for an e36, prefer 3.15 ratio and LSD. Being used for a manual conversion so current diff ration is too low.