NZ00Z3

If you're having problems with Mayo/yogurt build up, then that's more of a sign of too many short runs during winter. The engine is not getting up to temp long enough to dry out the moisture in the crankcase. The M56 cars use the MS45 DME. If your car has a MS45 DME then there are no issues. People start getting into trouble if they have the MS42 (M52TU) or MS43 (early M54) DME's. Each one uses a different method of earthing the coils. There can be 1, 2, or 3 Earthing resistors in the system. If you get misfire codes post M56 valve cover installation, then you have the wrong coil earthing system for your DME.

I spend a lot of time on the E46Fanatics forum helping people fix their cars. My opinion on the CCV is that it does what it was designed to do quite well but gets a bad rap due to people's misunderstandings, poor decisions and the minor problems with associated parts. For example: Plastic tubes get brittle with age and break. Vacuum leak created. Being cost conscious they purchase the cheapest replacement parts from multiple manufacturers. Part don't fit well, constantly chasing vacuum leaks. Solution is to buy a whole kit from OE manufacturer. Oil consumption goes up. Cause traced to the CCV. CCV replaced but does not fix the problem. The older M54's have a tube inside a tube design for the dipstick tube oil return. This gets blocked, oil can't return to the sump, so ends up going through the regulator to the inlet manifold. Solution, clean the dipstick oil return tube or install the later M54 dipstick tube that has a design improvement.

I still prefer the Z8 coupe that has recently been made.

Have a read of the attached file. Does the electric radiator fan run for 20 seconds when you turn the engine on? That is the DME doing a fan check. If it does not run, then the power controller on the fan has failed. New fan needed. The DME will register the fan failure and not engage the AC compressor clutch. INPA is a goot scanner to check for IHKA problems: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/how-to-install-bmw-standard-tools.1274003/ 8 Climate Control.pdf

You only get soot deposits on the tailpipes of Diesels that have had the Cat's removed. Diesels with Cats = clean tailpipes.

Electric trucks with pantographs, an interesting idea. Maybe apply the technology where it has been used for the last 100 years and electrify the rail network: Tracks and corridors are already in place and under utilised No more extra poles on the side of the roads for cars to hit and kill people. Gets the trucks off the long haul runs so less trucks on the road, Yeha!! Reduces the amount of rubber from tyres that is polluting the environment. 18 wheels or more on a truck and trailer.

Can you please link or tell me where the original is.

Yes, I totally agree. So, why are we not seeing lots of news articles about all the resource consenting for new solar and wind farms? After all, that is the first sign that the Govt owned generation companies are on board and pushing as hard as they can to build the needed generation.

Using electricity to split water. Yes, water is going to become the new fuel of the future. People/large companies/dictators are going to want to own it and control it. Wars are going to be waged over it. We have one now in N.Z called "3 Waters". Watch Labour socialise it and National sell it.

The real problem is getting off Dinosaur fuel. There are very few good options because you want to shift the massive volume of energy provided by Dinosaur fuel onto another energy type: Electric Cars: Good for the light vehicle fleet. Not suitable for the Heavy Vehicle fleet. Imagine leaving Auckland in a Heavy supermarket truck, and have to recharge every 300 km. You're heading to Dunedin. How long is it going to take you? In the short term the Electricity will come from thermal generation, that's still Dinosaur fuel. Wind and Solar are the long term suppliers. The Generation stack has to use hydro as the strategic back-up and not Huntly/thermal/dinosaur fuel. This means hydro operators need to be paid for keeping the dams full and we need to build 1,000's of MW of wind and solar. Expect and new wind or solar farm near you soon. The network needed to supply the massive extra amount of energy. Be it south to north or within a regions network, the capacity is not there. It's going to take decades to build. The environmental footprint of the EV is questionable. There are arguments for and against this topic. Green Hydrogen This is being investigated for the heavy vehicle fleet. The technology and infrastructure can then be applied to the light vehicle fleet. The massive amount of extra energy is provided by Electricity. So, the lack of new generation still applies. The lack of network capacity still applies when you try to centralise the Green Hydrogen production near cities. The only glint of help is Tiwai Point. Generation in place, Network in place, Near a large water source (Southern Ocean). Requires refilling station infrastructure, so reuse the petrol stations. Fuel Cell technology is up to speed Green Hydrogen in an internal combustion engine (ICE) is viable. Hydrogen embrittlement of metals and materials is a real problem for Green Hydrogen to get the 5 star safety rating. Synthetic Fuels These replace Petrol and Diesel. You keep your car. The petrol station just supplies a different product. Consumer infrastructure is in place all ready The massive amount of extra energy is provided by Electricity. So, the lack of new generation still applies. The lack of network capacity still applies when you try to centralise the Synthetic fuel production near cities. The only glint of help is Tiwai Point. Generation in place, Network in place, Near a port for shipping it North. The technology is ready. The Large Industries and Political will are too far invested into EV's to see the sense of this option. Summary Electricity (generation and grid) is the only alternative energy source that is technology ready to supply the massive amount of energy to replace Dinosaur fuel. Expect massive wind and solar builds in a paddock near you. The final consumer product needs to be debated. EV's don't support heavy transport. Green Hydrogen and Synthetic fuels are ready to go and are better options The Govts seems to be taking the political approach of "We have to be seen to do something. A decision, any decision, even if it's wrong, is better than being seen to do nothing". EV's are nearer to being ready than the others, so they have just chosen them to be seen to be doing something.

An interesting move in the UK, as from 30 June 2022, all home EV chargers must be smart chargers. Separately metered and able to be controlled remotely. Why? Recovery of road tax that is normally recovered via the purchase of petrol Control of the electricity grid peak load It will be interesting to see how the N.Z. Govt handles these issues? Road User Charges for EV's? Currently free. But watch this space when the penetration of EV's start to impact the Govt Coffers. Electricity Network owners are all struggling with the future high impact of the EV charging load. Effectively doubling there peak load on a network the has little or no future EV growth room due to the "Optimised Deprival Value" methodology they are forced by the Govt to use when building major improvements. There is no fat in the system and they simply can't build the network fast enough for electric car charging loads. Will you have enough charge for that urgent trip when the Network Owner has drained your battery to support their network peaks? Do I want to buy an electric car? Not at the moment. They are too expensive, battery life is a concern and the playing field on operating costs is a shifting muddy quagmire. Roll on Green Hydrogen and Green synthetic petrol. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/motorists-warned-as-new-driving-law-may-lead-to-sinister-implications-for-car-tax-costs/ar-AAXLcPw?li=AAnZ9Ug https://www.msn.com/en-gb/money/other/driving-law-changes-all-home-ev-chargepoints-will-need-smart-chargers-from-next-month/ar-AAXIfdT?li=AAnZ9Ug

Wow that's a nice BMW. Don't know what model it is, but it looks like a modern version of the M1 it sits next to. It looks quiet modern, but then again it must be an old design as the Kidney Grills are way to small.

Off-set control arm bushings on an E36 increases the caster (pushed the wheel forward a bit). They were only used on the early Z3M's and M3's. These had special control arms. I have no idea what Alpina would have fitted. I've looked as a couple of Alpina Vin Decodes over the years and they do not included any Alpina build data. A rub on one side and not the other would suggest an off-set center steering position. Fit concentric (not off-set) control arm bushings to get the wheel back in it's central position.

It's not surprising that the Z3 was in the list. A very much under rated car. Agree that the 3.0L is the one to go for with regards to power. Mine is just a joy to drive. Unfortunately, there are not too many manual 3.0L Z3's in N.Z. I've only seen 2 in all the years of looking and missed out on both. They sell so so quickly. The 2.8 (mine is the M52TUB28) has the nice wide body ass end, but the power, while a whole lot better than the lower capacity engines, is just not in the same league as the 3.0L

I love the Z3's, currently have 3 of them. Do not own a Z3M but one is a 3.0L, so I know about having 231 HP in a Z3. They are a fun well connected to the road car. The 2.7 turn to turn ratio steering is a joy in the twisties. Torsional rigidity is low (not having a roof) and you can get a little scuttle shake if you are really pushing it hard. That is why BMW put in the lower engine X brace and why the previous owner has put in the front top X brace. So, this car is all sorted. This car does not have ASC, so a little care and respect is needed in the wet. It's very easy to get the rear to step out with all of that power under the hood. The S50 engine is a strong engine. Do you research on maintenance needs. The speedo is in Miles. Ride comfort. My E46 with standard wheels and suspension is a flying carpet compared to the Z3. The Z3 ride is not harsh, but you do feel the dumps a bit more. I put this down to the road connected go-kart feel of the car. If you are really interested in the Z3M, see if you can take it for a test drive over the Rimatuka's. You'll either love it or hate if after your 2 hour run. The biggest weakness in the Z3M is the rear sub-frame. The subframe breaks away from the boot floor and the diff hangers crack. With the miles on the car, you need to get this inspected by someone who knows what they are looking for. Root cause is too much power and a manual transmission. People just love to drop the clutch and stress the subframe welds. First thing to look at is the spot welds in the boot where the subframe attaches. See any pulled or cracked welds, then walk away. Alternatively, knock $10k off the purchase price and have a Randy Forbes kit installed and have it fixed for good. Lots of photos and information on the interweb, so do your research. The price is good. A Z3M for under $30k is a bargain.

Here is an interesting opportunity. Frontal damaged 2005 M5, V10 with a 7 speed manual transmission. Engine still runs. Now, who has a project in mind that needs the engine and transmission? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/wrecked-cars/listing/3575233919?bof=MTt8DkNS

Have you tried removing the Hex head bolt? It looks like it is holding a retainer that is stopping the drive collar from coming out. Guys with the Z3's (E36/7) have problems with these drives and they remove them and swap around to power with a battery drill as needed. Maybe they are a different design?

Allen key is a Hex into a gear box that is designed for a square drive? Not going to be a good outcome. Maybe file the end of some round material square to make a drive. A collection of old aluminum knitting needles is always handy for this sort of thing.

Hi Over the last couple of years, I've been learning how to read the OBD2 diagnostic logs for E46's and E36/7's. This has mostly happened over in the E46Fanatics forum. Finally got around to writing up how to do the diagnostics. It's based on the M52TU and M54 engines but the principals should apply to most engines. It's a good intro, if you haven't done this type of diagnostics before. Enjoy. How to Read OBD2 Engine Diagnostic Logs V1-7 NZ00Z3.pdf

Do you have a forward and back electric seat motor? If so, take the Bowden cable out of the motor and put it into the height gearbox. Attach your reversible battery drill to the Bowden cable and slowly raise the seat. Alternatively, get onto www.RealOEM.com : Search with the last 7 numbers of your VIN and then browse for the part number of the Bowden cable for your seat. Purchase and install the new cable. Search other BMW's with electric seats. Find one with a similar length Bowden cable. Purchase and install the cable.

A 300HP Z4 that is not a Z4M. 1 of 167 RHD models made. 1 of 2 in N.Z Priced about the same as a Z4M roadster or coupe. An interesting car, but just a few too many BMW badges for me. They would soon be changed to Alpina badges if it was mine. Need to distinguish it from other Z4's a bit more. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/z4/listing/3552426877?bof=TYwpqE4v

When my E46 323i had a bad inlet cam sensor, it would crank for 20 odd seconds before it would start without the VANOS active. S0, your 5 second maximum crank is not normal. Don't know about the "leave the key in position 2" issue, never tested it.

Yes, the fuel pressure is too low. Confirmed by the: Fuel Pressure low sensor Both Short Term fuel trims.

I got 1/2 way through typing a post about how easy it is to get a key for a BMW that does not belong to you, then thought better of it. Don't want sort of information out there on the internet. From the information provided in the above posts, these crims are more than 1/2 way there already.

Yes your DME will be OBD2, but the rest of your modules will be OBD1/ADS. Have a go are reading the codes in your ABS or ZKE4 (GM4) module.